Flourless Chocolate Cake with Orange-Scented Whipped Cream

This cake is something between a soufflé and a dense chocolate brownie. It's incredibly light and cloud-like. Light in texture mind you, NOT light in calories. In spite of that fact, I've always felt that if you're going to indulge in dessert it should be one that falls somewhere between nirvana and heaven and this cake certainly doesn't disappoint. If indeed there is a heaven, and if I make it there, I want to eat this cake every single day.

Enough said.

Flourless Chocolate Cake with Orange-Scented Whipped Cream

Serves 8 to 10

FOR THE CAKE
12 ounces good quality bittersweet chocolate
12 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 large eggs, separated
12 tablespoons sugar, divided
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
Zest of an orange, grated
1 large marshmallow, to stabilize* cream

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Line the bottom a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper and set aside. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate and the butter in a double boiler, or even better, in the microwave for about 2 minutes on medium power. Stir until smooth and set aside to cool.

In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks with 6 tablespoons of the sugar until the mixture is pale yellow and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add vanilla, fold in the melted chocolate and set aside.

Meanwhile, beat the egg whites in another medium bowl until soft peaks form. Gradually add the remaining 6 tablespoons of sugar and beat until medium-firm peaks form. Lighten the chocolate mixture by folding in a third of the eggs whites, then fold the remainder gently into the chocolate mixture, being careful to just incorporate, but not overwork the batter. A few white streaks are okay. Pour into prepared springform pan and bake in the center of the oven for 40 to 50 minutes, until the top is puffed and cracked and a tester inserted in the middle comes out with moist crumbs attached. Cool the pan completely on a wire rack, don’t be alarmed when the center sinks in and forms a crater. To release, run a small sharp knife around the the edge of the cake and release the sides of the pan.

To make the orange scented whipped cream, whip the cream and vanilla until soft peaks form. Add the sugar, orange zest and the marshmallow to stabilize. Dollop the cream in the center of the cake and serve in large slices. Pure chocolate bliss!

*To “stabilize” whipped cream, beat as usual and whip in one large marshmallow that has been softened for about 10 seconds in the microwave.

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A Few Good Eggs: Or, My Take on the Classic French Omelette

I once read that in order to get a job as a chef in some French restaurants you had to prove that you could make a perfect omelette. This seemingly simple task is where the job is won or lost. The French take their omelettes very seriously and apply the same care in making them as they do a fancy beurre blanc sauce. On my personal quest for omelette perfection, I’ve come upon a few simple truths: 

 1. The pan matters. A good-quality, ovenproof nonstick skillet, about 9-inches in diameter with curved sides is perfect. 

 2. Never use more than 3 eggs in your omelette. If you’re feeding more than one person, make two omelettes! 

3. You need patience to make a good omelette. You can’t rush perfection, so don’t try. 

4. Season the omelette after you’ve cooked it, never before. The idea is that the outside be perfectly and beautifully yellow, unmarred by flecks of pepper and free of any brown spots. 

5. The omelette should be “custard-like” and forgive the expression, “as soft as a baby’s bottom.” 

6. An omelette is a beautiful thing, perfect in its simplicity. It needs little more than a scattering of fresh herbs, none of that cheese and ham nonsense. 

And finally, Julia Child once said, "Wine is essential with anything! Particularly omelettes for lunch." 

Far be it for me to argue with a master. 
 

ingredients for the perfect Omelette

The Perfect Omelette

Serves 1

3 large organic eggs
1 tablespoon heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1 tablespoon fresh chives, finely chopped
1 tablespoon tarragon, finely chopped
Kosher salt & freshly cracked pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Whisk eggs and the cream in a small bowl. In a 9-inch ovenproof non-stick saute pan, heat the butter over high heat until bubbling and foamy. You want it hot, but whatever you do, don’t let it brown. Add the eggs all at once to the center of the pan. There should be an audible hiss. Immediately reduce the heat to low and using a heat-resistant rubber spatula stir constantly. The key thing to remember here is, “low and slow.”

When the eggs begin to “just set” on the bottom (the top will still be wet) turn off the heat and toss the pan into the preheated oven. Let it go for about 1½ minutes until the top is still moist- looking and custard-like. Season with salt & pepper and scatter the chives and tarragon over the top of the eggs. Using the rubber spatula, gently loosen the edge of the eggs from the side of the pan and fold one side over toward the center. Use the pan to help you invert the omelette onto a plate folded over itself in thirds. Perfection!

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Crazy for Carbonara: An Italian Classic Gets a Reissue

I have a fondness for retro kitsch in the kitchen. Spaghetti alla Carbonara was big in the 70’s, but like so many food trends of that decade, it seems to have vanished from the collective consciousness. Fondue, anyone? I think it’s time for a reissue of this simple classic. By simple I mean its preparation, not its flavor.

There are several theories on the origin of Spaghetti alla Carbonara, which loosely translated means, “in the manner of coal miners, ” or "coal miner's spaghetti." It’s rumored that the dish was created during World War II by the Italians when American servicemen were hungry for bacon and eggs. My favorite legend however, claims that it was a staple of the coal miner diet because its few and simple ingredients could easily be carried into the mines and they needed no refrigeration. A roaring campfire was all that was needed for a quick meal. The liberal use of black pepper in the dish is said to represent the flecks of coal that would fall onto the miner’s plates. Isn’t that a romantic notion?

The ingredients for spaghetti alla carbonara.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Serves 6

Kosher salt, for pasta water
1¼ pounds spaghetti
4 cloves garlic, smashed
3 tablespoons good olive oil
½ pound of thickly sliced pancetta, cut into ¼-inch cubes
¼ cup good dry white wine
2 large eggs*
1/3 cup Pecorino Romano cheese, grated
¼ cup Parmesan-Reggiano cheese, grated
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Bring a large pot of water to the boil and when it does, generously season the water with salt. Cook the spaghetti according to package directions, to al dente, about 12 minutes. Reserve a ¼ cup of the pasta cooking water.

Meanwhile, with the flat side of a butcher knife, smash the garlic cloves and place them in a medium sauté pan along with the olive oil over medium-high heat. Saute until the garlic turns golden, about 2 minutes. Remove the garlic and discard. Place the pancetta in the pan and cook until it begins to crisp around the edges, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and let the alcohol cook off, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, crack the eggs into the bowl in which you’ll be serving the pasta. Beat them lightly with a fork and slowly whisk in the reserved pasta water. Add the cheeses and a generous grinding of black pepper, along with the parsley. Mix well.

Drain the spaghetti and immediately add to the bowl. Tip the pancetta into the bowl and toss well to coat. Serve immediately.

* If you’re concerned about using raw eggs, substitute ½ cup of pasteurized egg product for two large eggs.

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