Getting a Jump on Fig Season

I came to appreciate figs relatively late in life. To be honest, I didn’t even know what a fresh fig looked like until my mid twenties, and up until then I'm afraid my only exposure to them came in the form of a Newton. I have definitely made up for lost time because I’m obsessed with them now. They're sweet, delicious, sexy and fleeting. So if you spot them in the market, definitely take advantage of their short season. I love the simplicity of this recipe and they can be served as a starter or as an elegant finish to any meal.

Figs with Goat Cheese & Port Syrup

Makes 8

1 cup ruby port
6 tablespoons honey
6 ounces soft goat cheese (Montrachet)
8 ripe figs
½ cup toasted* walnuts, chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, lightly chopped, for garnish

In a small saucepan, over medium-high heat, bring the port and honey up to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer slowly until reduced by half. Set aside and cool to room temperature, the syrup will thicken considerably upon standing.

Cut the goat cheese into 8 equal pieces, about 2 teaspoons each, and roll each piece into a ball. Place the figs upright on a cutting board and carefully make four cross cuts, slicing each fig into eight sections, being careful not to go all the way through the bottom. Gently separate the figs outward to form a “flower.” Place a ball of goat cheese in the center of each fig and drizzle with the port syrup. Garnish with the walnuts and chopped parsley.

* Place walnuts in a dry sauté pan and push them around over medium heat until they deepen in color and their nutty aroma wafts up under your nose. Once they begin to toast, they go quickly so whatever you do, don’t abandon them. They go from perfectly toasted to “toast” in a matter of seconds.

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A Plum Idea

Whenever my friends attend parties I can hardly wait to corner them and find out all about the food that was served. Forget the guest list or the locale. I want to know about the food! If I can’t sample it myself I can always live vicariously, right? A good friend of mine recently attended a very chic wedding in Malibu and couldn’t wait to tell me all about these perfect little bites. Grilled plum with a bit of creamy Gorgonzola slightly melted on top, wrapped up in buttery prosciutto and fastened together with a sprig of rosemary. An elegant, easy starter. Done and DONE!

Prosciutto Wrapped Grilled Plums with
Gorgonzola & Rosemary

Serves 8

2 purple or black plums, pitted and sliced into eights

Extra virgin olive oil, for brushing plums

8 teaspoons Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled or sliced

8 slices prosciutto

16 small sprigs of fresh rosemary

Preheat a grill pan or outdoor grill over high heat.

Lightly brush the plum slices with the olive oil and place on the hot grill. Turn once to get grill marks on each cut side of the fruit. Remove and cool slightly. Place about 1/2 teaspoon of Gorgonzola on each slice of plum. Cut each slice of prosciutto in half lengthwise. Wrap the prosciutto around each plum slice and skewer with a sprig of rosemary to secure.

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In Search of the Perfect Bite

Some people live vicariously through others, I eat vicariously through others. Allow me to explain. I am often the very willing recipient of recipe ideas and flavor combinations from just about everywhere, via the traveling adventures of my friends, sometimes even friends of friends when they find out what I do for a living. Everyone, it seems, wants to give me their latest gustatory update, be it from last weekend’s block party, or some far off vacation destination. And I eagerly want to listen and sometimes even take notes. It's not uncommon for people to show me pictures of food, taken on their cell phones with as much pride as if they were showing me their first born. I’ve even gotten calls from friends at parties describing the menu to me as they walk the buffet line. Yes, really.

Through these tidbits I've virtually tasted the food at Hollywood parties, celebrity events, birthdays, weddings, Bar Mitzvahs, family reunions and countries I've never visited by taking what people tell me about their food experiences and using it as a blueprint in the kitchen for inspired creations of my own. Sometimes they actually bring me full-fledged recipes, but more often than not they’re breathless descriptions and flavor ideas that I can begin experimenting and tinkering with in the kitchen.

The following recipe idea came from just such an encounter after a friend returned from a trip to Argentina. He was telling me about the restaurants and the late night dining, and of course the beautiful steaks for which their country is known. But it was the amuse-bouche that was served at one particular restaurant that really piqued my interest. It was, for lack of a better description, a watermelon canapé. Knowing that I’m always in search of what I refer to as “the perfect bite” he described to me the simplest, most brilliant combination of sweet, juicy watermelon, soft, slightly salty mozzarella, and a thin sliver of perfectly ripe tomato stacked architecturally, the whole thing drizzled with just a touch of fresh basil oil and the slightest splash of aged balsamic vinegar. It made perfect culinary sense. All of the freshness of summer in one perfect bite.

I immediately set about experimenting with this idea and I must tell you, it is everything that I’d hoped it would be. Not to mention slightly unexpected, which is always a bonus in my book. I love making this for summertime entertaining because you can easily assemble a whole tray of them as part of a buffet, or serve one per person at the start of an elegant meal. It's pure art on a plate. Every time I serve these there's at least one person who eyes it suspiciously at first, but immediately upon tasting it becomes smitten. And I smile, knowing they’ve just experienced “the perfect bite.”

Watermelon Canapés

Serves 4 as a starter

FOR THE CANAPÉS

¼ of a small seedless watermelon

1 ball of fresh mozzarella (packed in water)

2 Roma tomatoes

Aged balsamic vinegar, for drizzling

FOR THE BASIL OIL

1 bunch fresh basil

3/4 to 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt & freshly cracked pepper, to taste

Bring a large pot of water to the boil and season generously with salt. Blanch the basil for 30 seconds, until bright and vibrant green. Plunge immediately into an ice bath to stop the cooking. Ring the water gently from the basil and place in a blender. With the blender running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil, completely pulverizing the basil to make a thin oil; season with salt and pepper.

To assemble the canapés, slice the watermelon into ¼-inch slices and then into 1-inch squares and place a few on a plate. Slice the mozzarella into ¼-inch slices and cut out with a small round cookie cutter slightly smaller than the watermelon squares. Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise and squeeze gently upside down to release the seeds. Slice lengthwise into thin slivers. Place a round of mozzarella on each piece of watermelon, top with a sliver of tomato and drizzle with basil oil and balsamic vinegar.

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The Truth About Risotto

Maybe it's Gordon Ramsay's fault. All his yelling and screaming on Hell’s Kitchen seems to have scared people off of risotto. It’s no wonder, as week after week we watched whichever bitchling had been dealt the unfortunate assignment of appetizers for that evening’s dinner service get their ass handed to them on a platter, Ramsay-style. It was with great pomp and circumstance that Gordon clutched his chef coat, pacing and agitated before tasting their pathetic attempt at risotto, grimacing dramatically, critiquing the lack of salt, groaning that it was either under cooked, or over cooked (it was hardly ever just right) before finally spitting it in the “bin” and declaring it, “Inedible!” and shouting, "Bollocks!" Meanwhile, the traumatized kitchen bitch dutifully endured the tongue lashing, doing their best to fend off a quivering lip before slinking away in embarrassment, shame and most likely cooking oblivion, all over a plate of rice! I’m not gonna lie, I was a little scared too and I was watching from the safety of my living room couch! Fortunately, I know the truth about risotto.

Bollocks indeed! The jig is up, Gordon! I’m here to “dispense with the rubbish” and let everyone know that risotto is one of the great culinary cons – it is not something to be intimidated by. Its origins are meager at best, yet restaurants have no problem charging $18 or more a plate for what amounts to a few cents worth of ingredients and a dish that essentially began its life as peasant food. And here’s the real rub: many a chef and cooking show have led us to believe that there is a built-in degree of difficulty if we were to actually attempt it in our own kitchens. That notion should be tossed in the “bin.” I’ve often thought that what puts people off about making risotto, Gordon's wrath aside, is the time commitment and the thought of constant stirring. Or perhaps, the fear of not cooking it properly. It is a tad bit laborious I’ll give you that, but it’s by no means difficult, so don’t confuse the two. The truth is, a child could do it given that there’s nothing more to do than sauté a few aromatics, tip the rice into the pan and cook it until it takes on a bit of nuttiness and gets slicked with whatever fat you’re using. If you’ve made a box of Rice-A-Roni (forgive the example), you’ve done this step! You’re well on your way to conquering risotto, so breathe.

To further put you at ease, continue my efforts of persuasion and perhaps attempt to erase the sound of Gordon Ramsay yelling, “Donkey!” in my own head, I’ll remind us all that not only is the time it takes to make risotto time well spent, but that there’s something almost meditative and Zen-like in the simple task and mindless repetition of stirring a pan of ingredients for 25 minutes or so. Proper risotto demands patience and attention. That’s the only way to achieve that melting creaminess and luxurious texture. Interesting advice coming from me, as I am quite possibly the most impatient person on the planet where everything else is concerned. That said, even I become transfixed in an almost Pavlovian fashion at the promise of a bowl full of soft, warm and meltingly creamy, saffron-infused rice as a great reward for such little effort. And perhaps best of all, I (and you) can enjoy that great reward in peace, without the looming threat of having our asses handed to us on a platter, Ramsay-style.

Saffron Risotto with Grilled Shrimp

Serves 4

FOR THE RISOTTO
5 cups good quality chicken stock
2 tablespoons Extra-Virgin olive oil
¼ cup unsalted butter
1 large shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1½ cups Arborio rice
2 pinches saffron threads
2/3 cups dry white wine
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground white pepper

FOR THE SHRIMP
1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on
2 tablespoons Extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Preheat outdoor grill or indoor grill pan to high.

Toss the shrimp with the oil and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper, set aside. The shrimp only take a couple of minutes per side so I get them ready to go and grill them during the last few minutes of cooking the risotto.

Heat chicken stock over medium-high heat until just simmering. In a large sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and sweat until translucent, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and saffron, turning to coat in the oil and sauté until the edges of the rice begin to look slightly translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until most of the liquid is absorbed and the pan is almost dry. Add one ladle-full of hot stock, stirring constantly until liquid is almost absorbed. Continue adding stock, one ladle at a time, stirring each addition until the liquid is almost absorbed, about 25 to 30 minutes total. The best test for doneness is to taste it and make sure it’s lost its too chewy center, it should be perfectly al dente.

When the risotto is nearly done, toss the shrimp on the grill and sear until pink, opaque and curled in on themselves, about 2 minutes per side. Spritz the shrimp with more lemon juice when it comes off the grill. When the risotto is done, stir in the remaining butter and the cheese and season with salt and pepper, it should have a nice thick, but not too thick consistency. To serve, ladle risotto into warmed wide bottom bowls and shake slightly from side to side. The risotto should spread evenly on its own. Top with the shrimp, scatter with the parsley and dig in.

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Holy Crab Cakes! Hold the “Krab,” Please!

Whoever it was who said “there is no bad pizza,” clearly never had a bad crab cake. While I (mostly) agree with the pizza sentiment, crab cakes are a whole other ballgame. When they’re bad, they can be really bad. The truth is, while most everybody loves a good crab cake, fewer people it seems know how to set about making them. And of course, by making them, I mean making them well. Simply put, there are a few things in life that I am a flagrant and unapologetic snob about, and a good crab cake is one of them! I believe it’s all about the freshest, simplest ingredients, not the least of which is beautiful, fresh jumbo lump crab meat, without a bunch of extra stuff to muck it up. And by “stuff” I mean fillers. The whole point of a crab cake is CRAB! Let it shine! It may seem obvious, but you’d be surprised at just how many people overlook that little detail.

Which brings us to the subject of “Krab,” with a K. What is that stuff anyway?! It’s like the Spam of the seafood counter! All the ground up and pressed together “parts” of I’m not sure what, with its sprayed-on psychedelic red color. It scarcely qualifies as an ingredient in cat food, let alone a crab cake! It’s just not right and frankly, I’ve never quite understood the point of substituting the star ingredient of a dish with its sad, inferior imitation. Don’t even get me started on Tofurky! But back to crab cakes. When you’ve had them the way they were meant to be had, prepared the way they’re famous for in Maryland, the taste experience borders on the transcendent!

I had just such a crab cake moment of nirvana the first time I visited my friend Jimmy Yeager’s restaurant in Aspen, CO., the aptly named Jimmy’s. Jimmy definitely understood the art of the crab cake. As it turns out the only things more famous than Jimmy’s legendary tequila selection, which is said to be one of the largest in the country, are his crab cakes. They’ve entered into a sort of local mythology and rightfully so, because let me tell you, they ROCK! They were sweet and succulent with just the right amount of lemoniness, and they were seasoned perfectly with very little filler! I was so taken with them that I was immediately inspired to step up my own crab cake making game. Jimmy kindly shares his recipe with anyone who asks. In fact, it’s posted on his site.

The recipe below is the version I make at home. Perhaps one day Jimmy and I will have a friendly crab cake throw down. Jimmy, if you’re reading this, the gauntlet has been thrown!

Just finished the crab cakes at Jimmy's. I was honored to sign the "Jimmy" wall

Crab cake nirvana!

Real Maryland Crab Cakes with Herb Remoulade

I serve these dressed simply, spritzed with lemon and just a touch of herb remoulade sauce on the side.

Makes 4 cakes

FOR THE SAUCE
½ cup good mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh dill, finely chopped
Juice of ½ lemon
Kosher salt & freshly cracked pepper, to taste

FOR THE CRABCAKES
1 pound fresh lump crabmeat, picked through for shell fragments
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 ½ tablespoons good mayonnaise
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 ½ teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
Several dashes of hot sauce, or to taste
5 Saltine crackers, finely crushed, or a ¼ cup of plain bread crumbs
2 scallions, chopped
1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
Lemon wedges, for garnish

To make the sauce, combine the mayonnaise, sour cream, parsley, dill and lemon juice in a small bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

To make the crab cakes, place the crabmeat in a large bowl and pick through, making sure there are no shells. In another small bowl, whisk together the egg, mayonnaise, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce and hot sauce. Add wet ingredients to the crabmeat, along with the cracker crumbs, scallions, parsley and pepper, to taste. You’ll notice I don’t suggest the addition of salt to the mixture. That’s because the crackers themselves are salted and I find additional salt unnecessary. Gently combine being careful not to overwork. The mixture will be wet. With your hands, form the meat into 4 cakes of equal size.

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and gently slide the crab cakes into the pan. Pan fry until the cakes are golden brown and cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. Serve warm with herb remoulade sauce and lemon wedges.

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