Endless Summer – One Last Hurrah

There is a moment every September when I look up and realize that summer is officially over. That’s precisely the moment that I find myself scrambling to hold on to my favorite time of year before the balmy evenings give way to crisp and eventually chilly nights that force me inside for the winter. Don’t get me wrong, I love a hearty, comforting meal inside by the fire, but what I really love is standing over the fire, grilling dinner for myself and friends.

Some sand from the hardware store and a bit of creativity turn my table into a night at the beach.

It’s my need for the proverbial “endless summer” and the realization that I didn’t make it to the beach even once this year that inspired this last hurrah. I figured that if I couldn’t find the time to make it to the beach, I’d bring the beach to my own backyard with a decidedly summery menu and a beach-inspired table design.

Grilled Asian Skirt Steak

This recipe plays on my love of cinnamon paired with red meat. It adds a subtle background note that mingles nicely with the ginger, garlic and sherry in the marinade. I like to marinate this steak as long as possible, but I’ve also made it when it’s only had an hour in the marinade and it was delicious. So, foresight recommended, but not required.


Serves 4

FOR THE MARINADE
1 six-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
4 large cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
4 teaspoons dark-brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
6 cinnamon sticks
½ cup good dry sherry
6 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE STEAK
2 small skirt steaks (about 1 pound each)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped, for garnish

In a medium bowl combine the sliced ginger, garlic, brown sugar, ground cinnamon, cinnamon sticks, dry sherry and soy sauce. Whisk in the olive oil and pour marinade over the flank steak in a heavy gallon sized Ziplock bag, which in my opinion is the easiest and best way to marinate meat. Marinate for at least 30 minutes at room temperature, or even better for several hours in the refrigerator. The longer the meat swims in the marinade the more flavorful it will be.

Preheat the grill to high.

Remove the flank steak from the marinade and brush off any slices of garlic and ginger, as they’ll just burn and char on the grill. Place the meat on a layer of several paper towels and blot off as much of the liquid as possible. This is an important step because if the meat is too wet it won’t sear, it will steam which is the surest way I know of to end up with gray steak! Season both sides generously with salt and pepper.

Grill the steak without moving it around or poking it so it has a chance to sear and get those beautiful grill marks, about 4 minutes per side for medium rare. Transfer steak to a cutting board and allow it to rest loosely tented under aluminum foil for at least 5 minutes before slicing into thin strips and scattering with a shower of chopped cilantro for garnish.

Herb Marinated Grilled Shrimp

Patience may be a virtue, but not when it comes to my dinner. I tend to favor bold flavors I can get on the table quickly. These shrimp never disappoint.


Serves 4

2 cups of fresh herbs, such as basil, parsley, thyme, oregano, etc.
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper, to taste
12 jumbo shrimp, about 1½ pounds

Combine chopped herbs, garlic and olive oil in a medium bowl or gallon size Ziplock bag, which in my opinion is the easiest and best way to marinate anything. Season with salt and pepper and add shrimp. Shake the bag to evenly coat shrimp. Place in the refrigerator and marinate for 45 minutes to an hour.

Preheat the grill to medium-high.

Remove shrimp from marinade and shake off the excess oil. Grill the shrimp, turning once, just until they curl in on themselves and turn an opaque pink color and are firm to the touch. Serve immediately.

Note: This recipe can also be done in a 400 degree oven. Depending on the size of the shrimp, 10 to 12 minutes should be about all they need.

Mango Salsa

The fresh flavors of this salsa pair beautifully with both the shrimp and the skirt steak.

Serves 4

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ cups diced red onion
2 teaspoons peeled, minced fresh ginger
1½ teaspoons minced garlic
2 ripe mangos, peeled, seeded, and small diced
1/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 teaspoons light brown sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and diced
2 teaspoons fresh mint leaves, chopped

Saute the olive oil, onions, and ginger in a large saute pan over medium-low heat for 10 minutes, or until the onions are translucent. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Add the mangos, reduce the heat to low and cook for 10 more minutes. Add the orange juice, brown sugar, salt, black pepper, and jalapeno; cook for 10 more minutes, until orange juice is reduced, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and add the mint. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

(Recipe adapted from Ina Garten.)

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A Plum Idea

Whenever my friends attend parties I can hardly wait to corner them and find out all about the food that was served. Forget the guest list or the locale. I want to know about the food! If I can’t sample it myself I can always live vicariously, right? A good friend of mine recently attended a very chic wedding in Malibu and couldn’t wait to tell me all about these perfect little bites. Grilled plum with a bit of creamy Gorgonzola slightly melted on top, wrapped up in buttery prosciutto and fastened together with a sprig of rosemary. An elegant, easy starter. Done and DONE!

Prosciutto Wrapped Grilled Plums with
Gorgonzola & Rosemary

Serves 8

2 purple or black plums, pitted and sliced into eights

Extra virgin olive oil, for brushing plums

8 teaspoons Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled or sliced

8 slices prosciutto

16 small sprigs of fresh rosemary

Preheat a grill pan or outdoor grill over high heat.

Lightly brush the plum slices with the olive oil and place on the hot grill. Turn once to get grill marks on each cut side of the fruit. Remove and cool slightly. Place about 1/2 teaspoon of Gorgonzola on each slice of plum. Cut each slice of prosciutto in half lengthwise. Wrap the prosciutto around each plum slice and skewer with a sprig of rosemary to secure.

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Just for the Grill of It! Adding Sizzle to Your Summer Meals

There is a time of year in Los Angeles (a city not exactly known for its change of seasons) when the mildly warm days of spring give way to the blistering hot days of summer. The days get longer, the whirring sound of central air-conditioners everywhere become a constant hum and the first scent of a neighbor’s grill wafts through the window, signaling the start of grilling season. It’s my favorite time of year! Though admittedly, I don’t limit my love or consumption of grilled food strictly to the summer months. I have long had a sturdy, well-seasoned cast iron grill pan in my kitchen that I use with unapologetic regularity, rain or shine. Sometimes, it’s just more comfortable to grill inside, in the 65° comfort of my own central air-conditioned kitchen, than to be outside sweating over a grill in the heat. The following recipe for Salt Steak however, must be cooked on an outdoor grill, but that’s part of the fun.

Glancing over the recipe, you may find it odd, even alarming that I’ve instructed you to use 1½ cups of kosher salt (no, I haven’t lost it completely and it’s not a typo). It is called Salt Steak after all. This method of grilling the meat, on a bed of coarse salt placed directly on the paper towels, the whole thing over the flame, doesn’t make the meat taste too salty. Instead, it keeps the meat incredibly tender and seasons it perfectly. This method is loosely based on a cooking technique used in both Italy and France for cooking chicken and whole fish encased in salt.

This recipe calls for London Broil, which is inexpensive, feeds an army and goes on sale all summer long. Interestingly, London Broil is a cooking method, NOT a cut of meat. Contrary to its name, it's virtually unknown in London, England. It can be flank steak, but is usually top round roast. If you’ve never dealt with London Broil before, it’s important to remember a few things: for really tender meat, it needs to be cooked to medium-rare, sliced thin on a 45° angle, and always, always cut across the grain.

Happy Grilling!

Salt Steak

I have a weakness for big juicy slabs of red meat, all beautifully seared and crusty on the outside, yet tender and pink on the inside. The following is my idea of red meat perfection and was one of my favorite summer meals as a kid. It still is! The combination of the thin slices of London Broil, cooked medium-rare and laid over garlic butter-soaked bread is mouthwatering. Paired simply with grilled corn on the cob and mushrooms sautéed in garlic, butter and thyme and you have a fantastic and memorable meal.

Serves 6 to 8

2 to 2½ pounds London Broil
1½ cups kosher salt, for grilling
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
2½ sticks unsalted butter, melted
3 cloves garlic, minced, or to taste
¼ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 loaf sliced French bread (sandwich-style)

Preheat outdoor grill to high heat.

On a plate, layer 3 white paper towels, one on top of the other, and place the London broil on top of them. Allow the meat to sit for several minutes so the juices soak the towels, leaving behind an impression of the meat. Remove the meat and fill the impression with an even layer of salt, about ½ inch thick. Season the meat generously with plenty of freshly-cracked pepper on both sides and place it on the salt.

Lay the whole thing on the grill and - stick with me here - don’t be alarmed when the dry edges of the paper towel catch fire and burn up almost immediately; the soaked portion of towel will be fine. Grill the meat for about 10 to 12 minutes per side turning it once back onto the paper towel. For medium rare, it’s done when an instant read thermometer registers 130° to 135°. Transfer the meat to a cutting board, tent it loosely with foil and allow it to rest for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, melt the butter with the garlic and allow the flavors to infuse for a few minutes. Pour the butter into a shallow dish and stir in the chopped parsley.

To serve, slice the London Broil diagonally across the grain into thin strips. Quickly dip one side of the bread into the melted garlic butter and place butter side up on the plate. Lay several slices of meat over the bread and dig in greedily.

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To Brine or Not to Brine: That is the Question

This is my rebel yell in recipe form in support of the pork chop. For some reason it just doesn’t get the respect it deserves. And it’s no wonder, when you see the pitiful displays of wafer-thin chops laid out in grocery store meat cases across the country. It doesn’t do much to inspire gastronomic creativity or debunk the myth that pork chops are dry, chewy and generally flavorless. I can’t pretend I haven’t been the recipient of a few tough, overcooked pork chops that could have passed as shoe leather in my day, no matter how much shaking and baking was involved! However, in my never ending pursuit of culinary enlightenment I’ve figured out a few things along the way that make all the difference.

1. Forget those wafer-thin pork chops in your grocer’s meat counter. Pork is bred so lean these days that it’s nearly impossible to cook something that thin without drying it out. Instead, become fast friends with the guy behind the meat counter. Ask him to cut you some nice, thick (I’m talking 2-inch thick) center-cut chops. This is the first step to changing your relationship with pork chops. I know it can be a bit intimidating talking to the gruff-looking guy behind the counter wielding the meat cleaver and sporting the bloody apron, but he doesn’t bite and special requests are actually a part of his job.

2. Brining is key. Admittedly, this requires a bit of foresight in your menu planning since the chops need to hang out in the brine for a minimum of 8 hours, but 24 is preferred to get the maximum flavor and benefit. If you’re not familiar with brining it’s an uber simple process of creating a salty solution infused with aromatics that not only give the meat big flavor from the inside out, but keep it incredibly tender and juicy. Trust me: once you’ve used this method you’ll never go back. (See recipe below).

3. What ever you do, DO NOT overcook your meat! You can brine your pork chops for a week, but if you overcook them, it's not going to matter. A perfectly cooked pork chop is actually (lean forward people) still slightly pink in the center. It should be cooked to 145° to ensure tender juiciness. I know that some of you are still adhering to your Grandma's rule that pork has to be well done otherwise, "You could end up with trichinosis!" Hmmm, perhaps now we know where pork chops that bear more of a resemblance to footwear than food came from. I know it's hard to question Grandma's wisdom, but not unlike the moment you came to grips with the truth about Santa Claus, you'll come to accept this one too. Sorry, Grandma.

If I’ve done my job effectively, hopefully I’ve convinced you to get out there and try pork chops again for the very first time. Especially when they're Brown Sugar-Brined Pork Chops with Caramelized Onion and Peach Marmalade. And for the record, the brining question? Strictly rhetorical.

Grilled Brown Sugar-Brined Pork Chops
with Caramelized Onion Peach Marmalade

Serves 4

FOR THE BRINE
7 cups warm water
¼ cup kosher salt
½ cup packed light brown sugar
1 sprig fresh rosemary
3 teaspoons black peppercorns
4 boneless, center-cut pork chops (each about 2 inches thick)

FOR THE MARMALADE
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups sliced sweet onions (Vidalia or Maui)
2 cups chopped peeled peaches, fresh or frozen
1/3 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

In a large bowl combine the salt, brown sugar, rosemary sprig and peppercorns. Add the warm water and stir until salt and sugar are dissolved. Allow water to cool slightly and place pork in brine and set a plate on top to keep meat completely submerged. Cover with plastic wrap and chill at least 8 hours or overnight.

To peel the peaches, bring a pot of water to the boil. Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with ice water to have at the ready. Plunk the peaches into the boiling water and let them go for roughly 45 seconds to a minute. Remove the peaches and immediately plunge into the ice bath. When they're cool enough to handle gently peel away the skins.

To make the marmalade, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook over low heat, stirring often, until transparent and starting to caramelize, 15 to 20 minutes. Add peaches, granulated sugar and vinegar. Cook, stirring often, until the peaches start to break down and the marmalade is caramelized and sticky, about 15 minutes. Stir in the rosemary and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Preheat an outdoor grill or indoor grill pan to medium-high heat.

Remove pork from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Brush pork lightly with olive oil and season generously on all sides with pepper. Extra salt isn’t necessary because of the brining process.

Grill pork chops, covered, turning once, until meat is done, but just slightly pink in the middle (145° on an instant read thermometer). Transfer pork to a platter, tent with foil, and let rest 5 to 10 minutes. Serve with marmalade.

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The Truth About Risotto

Maybe it's Gordon Ramsay's fault. All his yelling and screaming on Hell’s Kitchen seems to have scared people off of risotto. It’s no wonder, as week after week we watched whichever bitchling had been dealt the unfortunate assignment of appetizers for that evening’s dinner service get their ass handed to them on a platter, Ramsay-style. It was with great pomp and circumstance that Gordon clutched his chef coat, pacing and agitated before tasting their pathetic attempt at risotto, grimacing dramatically, critiquing the lack of salt, groaning that it was either under cooked, or over cooked (it was hardly ever just right) before finally spitting it in the “bin” and declaring it, “Inedible!” and shouting, "Bollocks!" Meanwhile, the traumatized kitchen bitch dutifully endured the tongue lashing, doing their best to fend off a quivering lip before slinking away in embarrassment, shame and most likely cooking oblivion, all over a plate of rice! I’m not gonna lie, I was a little scared too and I was watching from the safety of my living room couch! Fortunately, I know the truth about risotto.

Bollocks indeed! The jig is up, Gordon! I’m here to “dispense with the rubbish” and let everyone know that risotto is one of the great culinary cons – it is not something to be intimidated by. Its origins are meager at best, yet restaurants have no problem charging $18 or more a plate for what amounts to a few cents worth of ingredients and a dish that essentially began its life as peasant food. And here’s the real rub: many a chef and cooking show have led us to believe that there is a built-in degree of difficulty if we were to actually attempt it in our own kitchens. That notion should be tossed in the “bin.” I’ve often thought that what puts people off about making risotto, Gordon's wrath aside, is the time commitment and the thought of constant stirring. Or perhaps, the fear of not cooking it properly. It is a tad bit laborious I’ll give you that, but it’s by no means difficult, so don’t confuse the two. The truth is, a child could do it given that there’s nothing more to do than sauté a few aromatics, tip the rice into the pan and cook it until it takes on a bit of nuttiness and gets slicked with whatever fat you’re using. If you’ve made a box of Rice-A-Roni (forgive the example), you’ve done this step! You’re well on your way to conquering risotto, so breathe.

To further put you at ease, continue my efforts of persuasion and perhaps attempt to erase the sound of Gordon Ramsay yelling, “Donkey!” in my own head, I’ll remind us all that not only is the time it takes to make risotto time well spent, but that there’s something almost meditative and Zen-like in the simple task and mindless repetition of stirring a pan of ingredients for 25 minutes or so. Proper risotto demands patience and attention. That’s the only way to achieve that melting creaminess and luxurious texture. Interesting advice coming from me, as I am quite possibly the most impatient person on the planet where everything else is concerned. That said, even I become transfixed in an almost Pavlovian fashion at the promise of a bowl full of soft, warm and meltingly creamy, saffron-infused rice as a great reward for such little effort. And perhaps best of all, I (and you) can enjoy that great reward in peace, without the looming threat of having our asses handed to us on a platter, Ramsay-style.

Saffron Risotto with Grilled Shrimp

Serves 4

FOR THE RISOTTO
5 cups good quality chicken stock
2 tablespoons Extra-Virgin olive oil
¼ cup unsalted butter
1 large shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1½ cups Arborio rice
2 pinches saffron threads
2/3 cups dry white wine
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground white pepper

FOR THE SHRIMP
1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on
2 tablespoons Extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Preheat outdoor grill or indoor grill pan to high.

Toss the shrimp with the oil and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper, set aside. The shrimp only take a couple of minutes per side so I get them ready to go and grill them during the last few minutes of cooking the risotto.

Heat chicken stock over medium-high heat until just simmering. In a large sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and sweat until translucent, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and saffron, turning to coat in the oil and sauté until the edges of the rice begin to look slightly translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until most of the liquid is absorbed and the pan is almost dry. Add one ladle-full of hot stock, stirring constantly until liquid is almost absorbed. Continue adding stock, one ladle at a time, stirring each addition until the liquid is almost absorbed, about 25 to 30 minutes total. The best test for doneness is to taste it and make sure it’s lost its too chewy center, it should be perfectly al dente.

When the risotto is nearly done, toss the shrimp on the grill and sear until pink, opaque and curled in on themselves, about 2 minutes per side. Spritz the shrimp with more lemon juice when it comes off the grill. When the risotto is done, stir in the remaining butter and the cheese and season with salt and pepper, it should have a nice thick, but not too thick consistency. To serve, ladle risotto into warmed wide bottom bowls and shake slightly from side to side. The risotto should spread evenly on its own. Top with the shrimp, scatter with the parsley and dig in.

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