It’s raining in Los Angeles. This isn’t just a drizzle. Not just a sprinkle. Not even a cat or a dog! I’m talking a full week of non-stop monsoons nearing biblical proportions and it doesn’t seem to be stopping anytime soon.
Like many a SoCal resident I’m not physically or emotionally equipped to deal with “weather.” I’ll be the first to admit we’re spoiled here and maybe more than a little soft when the temperature dips below 65 degrees or more than a drop of water hits our windshields. Personally it makes me want to take refuge under my Slanket until it all goes away. And p.s., I’m not kidding. I really do have a Slanket!
There’s only one thing to do. Make soup! That’s right, if nature is going to hand me lemons in the form of rain, I’m going to make lemonade in the form of soup! I may not be equipped to deal with weather extremes, but I’m always equipped to whip up something warm and comforting in the kitchen. So until the rain decides to let up, you know where to find me…
Tom Kha Gai (Thai Chicken Coconut Soup)
I don’t know if this soup is authentically Thai, but I do know that it is exotically wonderful and deceptively easy to make. It has a kind of restorative, life affirming quality about it and definitely borrows from the Thai palate, perfectly infusing the flavors of coconut, chili, lime and lemongrass. It’s the kind of soup you can make mid-week when you’re stressed out, hating life and the weekend seems nowhere in sight. Think of it as a vacation for your taste buds.
Serves 4
1 quart chicken stock 2 cloves garlic, smashed 1 (2- inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced 2 slices Galangal root* 3 Kaffir lime leaves**, torn 2 stalks lemongrass, white part only, sliced in half lengthwise 1 teaspoon sugar 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts 2 (13 ounce) cans coconut milk 1 to 2 teaspoons sambal oelek (Asian hot chili paste), or to taste 1 ½ tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla or nuoc nam) ½ teaspoon turmeric 1 medium carrot, peeled & shredded 8 ounces button mushrooms, halved Freshly squeezed juice of 2 limes 4 scallions, thinly sliced on an angle Fresh cilantro, chopped for garnish
Place the chicken stock, garlic, ginger, Galangal root, lime leaves, lemongrass and sugar in a large stock pot or Dutch oven and bring to the boil. Add the chicken breasts, reduce heat and simmer gently until chicken is just cooked through, about 12 minutes. Fish the chicken out of the pot and allow it to cool a bit on a cutting board.
Meanwhile, remove the Galangal root, lemon grass, garlic and lime leaves from the broth and discard. Stir in the coconut milk, sambal, fish sauce, turmeric, carrots, mushrooms, and lime juice. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, cut it into rough and tumble chunks or shred it with your fingers and add it back to the pot. Heat the soup through gently to soften the carrots but don’t bring back to the boil. Add the scallions and ladle into individual bowls and garnish with chopped cilantro.
*Galangal root can be found in Asian markets in most cities. If you can’t find it, feel free to omit it from the recipe.
**Kaffir lime leaves can also be found in Asian markets. If you can’t find it substitute the zest of a lime instead. I buy extra when I’m at the Asian market and store them in a ziplock bag in my freezer. They keep for months!
Thanksgiving conjures up two thoughts for me: one of warm, fuzzy splendor and one of sheer panic. The first: a beautiful feast lovingly prepared and spread out on gorgeous, crisp linens, the turkey itself the regal, bronzed centerpiece of a relaxed and wonderful day spent with family and friends, while the aroma of perfectly spiced pumpkin pie floats through the house. It’s too idyllic for words, like something out of a Norman Rockwell painting.
Then, of course, the record scratches in the soundtrack of my mind and I quickly come crashing back to reality and remember what it’s really been like so many Thanksgivings before: Me, standing in the midst of chaos, panic-stricken, with giblet gravy splattered across my shirt, the smoke alarm going off, me trying to cook (or rather, trying not to burn) a picture-perfect meal for a house full of eager and hungry guests. All the while I’m fending off hyperventilation and a full-blown anxiety attack that leaves me teetering on the verge of a nervous breakdown, wandering the streets, all wild-eyed and whacked, babbling incoherently about mashed potatoes gone horribly wrong! It’s enough to make me vow never to put myself through that again. I need a stiff drink just thinking about it!
But inevitably the next year rolls around, and like childbirth (so I’m told) I forget the agony of the past, telling myself it wasn’t quite as bad as I remember. After all, no one was hurt! And before I know it, I find myself pondering this year’s Thanksgiving menu once again. This time, however, unwilling to let history repeat itself, I’m applying an altogether different plan of attack.
Like so much in life, the key to a successful Turkey Day lies in planning ahead. So this year I’m starting early in both the planning and preparation. I'm not doing an entire turkey, instead, I'm sticking to the breast. It's everyone's favorite anyway. Then, on the day of, there is little more to do than roast the turkey breasts, light a few candles, and eat myself into a tryptophan-induced coma. My game plan is simple as long as I (and you) remember three things:
1) Choose a foolproof menu that can (mostly) be made ahead
2) Let go of impossible standards of perfection, and
3) Always remember, it’s not life or death so make it fun.
Up to one week ahead: Order the turkey breasts from the grocery store or butcher. Shop for nonperishable food items, beverages, and decorative elements like candles. Make rosemary cashews and store in an airtight container. Don't eat them all! Make iPod playlist for guests.
2 days ahead: Pick up the turkey breasts and other groceries; make the soup and the cranberry sauce.
1 day ahead: Caramelize shallots, wash and trim green beans, make Savory Herb & Gruyere Strata, Whip Cream, set table. Thanksgiving morning: Choose a sassy outfit for yourself. Take a deep breath and relax. You can do it!
2 hours ahead: Prepare, stuff, and roast turkey breasts. Bring cranberry sauce to room temperature.
1 1/2 hours ahead: Make potato gratin; bake along with the strata while turkey breasts are resting.
1 pound dry roasted whole cashews, unsalted 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 Tablespoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Spread the cashews out on a sheet pan and toast them in the oven for about 6 minutes until they begin to smell nutty and take on a bit of color. Meanwhile, in a large bowl combine the melted butter, salt, chopped rosemary, brown sugar, and cayenne pepper. Stir to combine. When the cashews come out of the oven toss them thoroughly with the butter mixture to coat. Serve warm.
Wild Mushroom & Barley Soup
Serves 8 2 ounces dried porcini mushrooms 3½ cups hot tap water ¼ cup good olive oil 1 medium onion, chopped 2 medium carrots, peeled and diced 2 ribs celery, diced 1 fresh bay leaf 1 pound crimini mushrooms, cleaned* and sliced 2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste 1 quart beef stock ½ cup pearl barley ¼ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Fish the porcini mushrooms out of the soaking liquid with a slotted spoon and chop roughly. Strain the liquid through a fine mesh sieve or a piece of cheesecloth to catch any grit that has collected on the bottom of the bowl. Add the soaking liquid to the pot along with the beef stock and barley. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a gentle simmer until the barley is tender, about 40 minutes. Stir in the parsley and serve immediately.
*Never run mushrooms under water. They’re like little sponges and will soak up all that liquid and become waterlogged. Simply wipe them with a damp cloth, or dust them off with a pastry brush.
Herb-Roasted Turkey Breasts with Pan Gravy
Serves 4
FOR THE TURKEY
1 small onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 1 lemon, zested 12 fresh sage leaves Large handful fresh flat-leaf parsley 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for oiling pan 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste 6 fresh bay leaves 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 boneless turkey breast halves, skin on (about 2 to 2½ pounds each)
FOR THE PAN GRAVY
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup tablespoons all-purpose flour 1/4 cup dry white wine 2 to 3 cups chicken stock
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper
1 tablespoon fresh sage, chopped
Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.
Oil a roasting pan and set it aside. Put the onion and the lemon zest into the bowl of a food processor and blitz until fine. Add the sage, parsley, olive oil, and 1 teaspoon salt and pulse until it forms a coarse paste. Place 2 of the bay leaves and the butter into a small pan and heat over medium-low heat until the butter is bubbling. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Place the turkey breasts on a work surface. Carefully run your fingers between the skin and the flesh from one end, being careful not to pull it completely off, creating a pocket. Season the turkey breasts generously with salt and pepper. Stuff half of the herb paste under the skin of each breast, and spread it evenly under the skin. Transfer the breasts to the roasting pan, and slide 2 bay leaves underneath each one. (The heat of the pan will release the bay leaf oils and flavor the breast.) Using a pastry brush, baste the breasts with half of the bay butter. Place the turkey in the oven and roast for 20 minutes.
After 20 minutes, baste the turkey breasts with the remaining butter, and decrease the oven temperature to 400 degrees. Roast for an additional 25 to 30 minutes, until cooked through, and a thermometer placed in the thickest part of the breast registers 160 degrees.
Remove turkey breasts from the oven, transfer to a platter, cover, and let rest for 10 minutes loosely tented under foil before carving. Meanwhile, to get on with the gravy, place the roasting pan over the burner on medium heat. Melt the butter and sprinkle the flour over the pan juices, and cook, stirring, for a few minutes to make a roux. Add the wine, and scrape the pan to lift the bits that are stuck to the bottom. Cook for a minute to burn off the alcohol, then, while stirring, pour in the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer, and stir until thickened. Season with salt and pepper and add the sage. Slice the turkey breast on the diagonal, and serve with warm gravy.
Savory Herb & Gruyere Strata
Serves 8
¼ cup unsalted butter, plus more for buttering pan 2 shallots, sliced 1/2 cup dry white wine 6 large eggs 2 1/2 cups heavy cream 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon white pepper 2½ cups Gruyere cheese (about 10 ounces) 2½ cups Swiss cheese (about 10 ounces) ¼ cup fresh chives, chopped ¼ cup fresh sage, chopped ¼ cup fresh marjoram, chopped 1 pound loaf of day old French bread, cut into ½-inch pieces
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Liberally butter a 7x11 inch glass baking dish and set aside. Saute shallots in butter until soft. Add wine and simmer for about 3 to 5 minutes to reduce the wine. Set aside.
Whisk eggs, cream, salt and pepper in a large bowl, add shallot wine mixture. Combine the cheese and herbs together. Add all but 1 cup cheese to the egg mixture then carefully fold in the bread pieces. Allow to stand a minimum of 1 hour in the refrigerator, or up to overnight.
Pour mixture into prepared pan and sprinkle with remaining cheese herb mixture. Bake bread pudding until golden and puffed, about 40 minutes. Cool 10 minutes.
Yukon Gold and Sweet Potato Gratin
Serves 4
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature 1 cup whole milk (scant) 1 large garlic clove, peeled and crushed 3/4 teaspoon. kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 3/4 pound Yukon gold potatoes 3/4 pound sweet potatoes or yams 1 1/2 cups heavy cream
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
Liberally butter the bottom of a rectangular baking dish with half of the butter and set aside. Place a small saucepan with the milk, garlic, salt, pepper, and nutmeg over low heat while you set about peeling and slicing the potatoes. A mandoline is perfect for this, but I usually opt for a really sharp butcher knife, mostly because I'm too lazy to drag out and wash any extra equipment. Slice the potatoes about an eighth of an inch thick, discarding the smallest slices. Don't wash the potatoes after slicing them the surface starch is indispensable.
Evenly arrange the potatoes in the bottom of the baking pan, one overlapping row at a time. Layer the following row about a third of the way over the previous row. Alternate rows of sweet and Yukon gold potatoes. Continue until the baking pan is neatly paved. It should look something like a shingled rooftop.
Bring the milk to a boil, fish out the garlic clove, and pour the milk over the potatoes. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake in the middle of the oven for about 15 minutes until most of the milk has been absorbed. Meanwhile, set the cream over low heat and bring to a boil. Pour the cream over the semi-cooked potatoes and dot the entire surface with the remaining butter.
Continue to bake, uncovered, for another 20 to 25 minutes until the potatoes are golden brown and spotted with darker, crisp areas. The potatoes will be dotted with thickened cream, especially between the slices.Allow the gratin to rest for 10 minutes before serving.
Vanilla- Scented Cranberry Sauce
Serves 8 to 10
2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice 1 cup sugar, or to taste 2 whole vanilla beans, split lengthwise, seeds scraped out 2 (12 ounce) bags fresh cranberries
In a medium saucepan combine orange juice, sugar and vanilla beans, stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Add the cranberries and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer until berries pop, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Fish the vanilla bean out and scrape the seeds into the sauce and mix well. Discard the bean. Refrigerate until ready to use.
Steam Suateed Green Beans with Caramelized Shallots
Serves 8
3 tablespoons good olive oil 6 large shallots, peeled & thinly sliced 2 1/2 pounds fresh green beans, cleaned and trimmed 1/3 cup water 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
In medium skillet, heat oil over low heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes or until soft and deep golden brown. Don’t rush this part. It really does take about 15 minutes to develop the sugars and caramelize the shallots. Trust me, your patience will be rewarded. They key to success is low and slow.
2 cups heavy cream 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 3 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon of cinnamon, or to taste
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Combine the cake mix, egg, and butter and mix well with an electric mixer. Pat the mixture into the bottom of a lightly greased 13 by 9-inch baking pan. To make the filling: In a large bowl, beat the cream cheese and pumpkin until smooth. Add the eggs, vanilla, and butter, and beat together. Next, add the confectioners’ sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and mix well. Spread pumpkin mixture over cake batter and bake for 40 to 50 minutes. Make sure not to overbake as the center should be a little gooey. Serve with fresh cinnamon whipped cream.
Private chef and cookbook author David Lawrence grew up in a house where the kitchen was always abuzz with activity. He learned early the simple pleasures of cooking and spent years assisting in his Mother’s kitchen, a woman he affectionately describes as a Martha Stewart incarnate, minus the chic poncho and clunky ankle bracelet! From then on David knew his mission was clear, he wanted to feed and entertain people.
David’s cookbook, Boy Eats World! A Private Chef Cooks Simple Gourmet, (Lake Isle Press) is all about having fun in the kitchen and demystifies cooking for the Atari generation. David’s humorous style and easy to follow recipes will help even the most timid cook feel like a kitchen rock star!
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