There is a time of year in Los Angeles (a city not exactly known for its change of seasons) when the mildly warm days of spring give way to the blistering hot days of summer. The days get longer, the whirring sound of central air-conditioners everywhere become a constant hum and the first scent of a neighbor’s grill wafts through the window, signaling the start of grilling season. It’s my favorite time of year! Though admittedly, I don’t limit my love or consumption of grilled food strictly to the summer months. I have long had a sturdy, well-seasoned cast iron grill pan in my kitchen that I use with unapologetic regularity, rain or shine. Sometimes, it’s just more comfortable to grill inside, in the 65° comfort of my own central air-conditioned kitchen, than to be outside sweating over a grill in the heat. The following recipe for Salt Steak however, must be cooked on an outdoor grill, but that’s part of the fun.
Glancing over the recipe, you may find it odd, even alarming that I’ve instructed you to use 1½ cups of kosher salt (no, I haven’t lost it completely and it’s not a typo). It is called Salt Steak after all. This method of grilling the meat, on a bed of coarse salt placed directly on the paper towels, the whole thing over the flame, doesn’t make the meat taste too salty. Instead, it keeps the meat incredibly tender and seasons it perfectly. This method is loosely based on a cooking technique used in both Italy and France for cooking chicken and whole fish encased in salt.
This recipe calls for London Broil, which is inexpensive, feeds an army and goes on sale all summer long. Interestingly, London Broil is a cooking method, NOT a cut of meat. Contrary to its name, it's virtually unknown in London, England. It can be flank steak, but is usually top round roast. If you’ve never dealt with London Broil before, it’s important to remember a few things: for really tender meat, it needs to be cooked to medium-rare, sliced thin on a 45° angle, and always, always cut across the grain.
2 to 2½ pounds London Broil 1½ cups kosher salt, for grilling Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste 2½ sticks unsalted butter, melted 3 cloves garlic, minced, or to taste ¼ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped 1 loaf sliced French bread (sandwich-style)
Preheat outdoor grill to high heat.
On a plate, layer 3 white paper towels, one on top of the other, and place the London broil on top of them. Allow the meat to sit for several minutes so the juices soak the towels, leaving behind an impression of the meat. Remove the meat and fill the impression with an even layer of salt, about ½ inch thick. Season the meat generously with plenty of freshly-cracked pepper on both sides and place it on the salt.
Lay the whole thing on the grill and - stick with me here - don’t be alarmed when the dry edges of the paper towel catch fire and burn up almost immediately; the soaked portion of towel will be fine. Grill the meat for about 10 to 12 minutes per side turning it once back onto the paper towel. For medium rare, it’s done when an instant read thermometer registers 130° to 135°. Transfer the meat to a cutting board, tent it loosely with foil and allow it to rest for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, melt the butter with the garlic and allow the flavors to infuse for a few minutes. Pour the butter into a shallow dish and stir in the chopped parsley.
To serve, slice the London Broil diagonally across the grain into thin strips. Quickly dip one side of the bread into the melted garlic butter and place butter side up on the plate. Lay several slices of meat over the bread and dig in greedily.
I am evangelical about grilling in the summer! Any time of year for that matter, but there’s just something about cooking dinner outside, over an open flame on those sultry summer nights that speaks to me. That said I'm always interested in recipes and methods that not only make grilling easier, but more delicious.
In the last couple of years I’ve become quite a fan of grilling on natural red cedar planks. The method produces in the salmon an intoxicating aroma, beautiful texture and a smoky flavor from the cedar that subtly perfumes the fish. While I admit I’m not charting any new territory here, it’s a method that’s been around forever and one that most people have heard of, it’s surprising to me just how many people haven’t actually tried grilling on cedar for themselves. I’m on a mission to change that! If you find yourself hesitant or think the technique requires some sort of grilling super powers, let me assure you it’s no more difficult a proposition than getting yourselves some cedar planks, giving them a good soak in water for a few hours before grilling and whipping up a sweet-hot and deliciously sticky glaze that shellacs the outside of the salmon beautifully while maintaining its meltingly coral pinkiness on the inside.
The cedar planks themselves are inexpensive and easily found at any well-stocked grocery store, hardware stores and of course online. Amazon has several options available that can be delivered right to your door.
A few easy tips for successful plank grilling:
▪ Weigh the planks down while they’re soaking using something like a can or two from the pantry. The planks are buoyant and you want to ensure they’re good and water logged.
▪ Keep a spray bottle of water near the grill to extinguish any flare ups.
▪ What ever you do, don’t overcook the fish! Perfectly cooked salmon should still have a bit of a pink trail running through the middle of it. Cook until the internal temperature reaches 135 degrees F. on an instant read thermometer.
▪ Let the salmon rest for 5 minutes or so loosely tented under some aluminum foil before digging in.
▪ Don’t even bother with a serving platter. The cedar plank makes a rustic and easy presentation without any extra clean up.
Cedar Plank Grilled Salmon with Sweet-Hot & Sticky Glaze
Serves 4
FOR THE GLAZE 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 teaspoons garlic, minced 1 teaspoon fresh ginger, minced ¼ cup freshly squeezed orange juice ½ cup honey 1 teaspoon tobasco sauce, or to taste 1 tablespoon dark brown sugar ½ teaspoon orange zest ½ teaspoon lemon zest 1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper ½ cup fresh cilantro, chopped
FOR THE SALMON 2 pound side of boneless, skin-on salmon filet (Wild if possible) 1 cedar plank, about 10 x 16 x ½-inch thick, soaked in water for 3 hours. 2 tablespoons olive oil
Oil the skin side of the salmon and generously season with salt and pepper on both sides. Lay the salmon skin side down on the cedar plank. Place the plank with the salmon onto the grill and close the lid. Let cook for about 5 minutes before painting the salmon with the glaze. Continue to baste every 5 minutes or so until the salmon is done, about 18 to 24 minutes total, depending on the thickness of the filet. The internal temperature should read 135 degrees F. Transfer the salmon and plank to a platter and serve right off the plank.
I have a secret I’m dying to let you in on just in time for Memorial Day weekend. Like any juicy tidbit, it won’t be a secret for long. As a cultural explorer and culinary sleuth, I am always on the lookout for exciting developments and the “next big thing” on the food and wine horizon. I believe I’ve found it. Are you ready? Lean closer … it’s sparkling Shiraz, or “spurgles,” as the Aussies fondly refer to it.
Many of you are probably no stranger to Shiraz, the spirited, fruity red that has become synonymous with Australian wine and a favorite among wine aficionados. But the sparklers stand on their own. Think bold and inky, a spicy, fruity depth with bubbles! Lots of bubbles. The color is glorious, too! The wine is best served chilled, in champagne flutes, and pairs beautifully with spicy and grilled foods. It’s perfect for summer barbecues or with your favorite spicy Thai food. But unlike champagne, which is often made with Pinot Noir grapes but remains pale because of its minimal contact with the red skins, sparkling Shiraz is vinified with the skins, resulting in a deep, crimson color and alluring aroma.
I must tell you this is not—I repeat, not—Cold Duck! Cold Duck is a carbonated sweet wine `from the ’70’s that bears more of a resemblance to grape soda pop than to fine wine. While I’m always up for a bit of retro chic, some things are best left in the past. Polyester leisure suits, anyone?
The Australians have been enjoying sparkling reds for years. Only now is their best-kept secret gaining popularity in the United States. Vintage sparklers are typically aged for five to 10 years, and are done in small quantities. For those reasons, they can be a bit of a challenge to find. My first excursion turned into an all-day outing that finally produced a bottle of Majella 2002 sparkling Shiraz from a local wine shop. Many shopkeepers along the way cocked their heads in an RCA Victor–dog sort of way and looked at me curiously when I inquired about the bubbly red. I nearly wept with joy when I finally found it, and carried it home like the Holy Grail and placed it in my refrigerator with eager anticipation to chill for that night’s dinner.
As I sat down to grilled steak and spicy roasted vegetables and popped the cork, I must admit, I was skeptical at first. I poured the wine into a tall champagne flute. The color was deep, dark purple and the bubbles a beautiful, rich shade of pink. I sniffed. It had a warm, fruity aroma. Not knowing quite what to expect, I took a sip. I was hooked! It was drier than I had expected. I took another sip. I was in love! The lush fruitiness and unobtrusive tannins were in perfect harmony. And those bubbles! Dancing in my mouth, they were perfect with the grilled steak and peppery vegetables. It all came together in that moment. I went out the next day and bought two more bottles. A week later I ordered a case and invited 10 friends to dinner to share my new discovery.
In my search for the perfect sparkling Shiraz, I found many that I liked (some better than others, but they all had something distinct to offer). As I mentioned, they’re not always easy to find, being that we’re just starting to catch on stateside. But I did find one amazing resource called the Jug Shop in San Francisco with several varieties in stock. In fact, they boast the largest selection of Australian wine on the West Coast, and were voted one of the top 10 specialty wine stores in the U.S. by GQ. They are friendly and knowledgeable, and their motto is: “We taste bad wines so you don’t have to.” The good news is, even if you don’t live in San Francisco, they have an easy-to-navigate Web site, http://www.jugshop.com/, and they ship anywhere in the U.S. Now that my fizzy little secret is out, you’ll know what to look for when searching for the perfect wine to serve at your next barbecue. Just what you grill may be up for debate, but the wine selection is clear. Fire up the grill!
THE GRILL OF IT ALL!
The following recipes pair perfectly with your favorite spurgles...
Kick Ass Burgers with Roasted Tomatoes,
Caramelized Balsamic Onions
& Smoky Chipotle Ketchup
The all-American Hamburger gets a gourmet makeover with the addition of ground brisket and a few other ingredients that really take this cookout classic to the next level. Perfect for Memorial Day! Admittedly there's a bit of preparation involved, but don't confuse time consuming with difficult. There's nothing difficult about these burgers and most of the prep work can be done days in advance. Believe me, the flavor pay off is well worth it! Ask your friendly butcher to grind the brisket twice for the juiciest, most delicious burger you've ever tasted.
FOR THE ONIONS 1 pound red onions, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch rings 2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste Kosher salt, to taste 2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar
FOR THE KETCHUP 1 cup ketchup 1 to 2 teaspoons canned chipotle peppers*, seeded and diced, or to taste 1 to 2 tablespoons adobo sauce from can, or to taste 2 teaspoons aged balsamic vinegar Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
FOR THE TOMATOES 6 Roma tomatoes Olive oil for drizzling Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
FIXIN’S
6 Brioche Rolls or good hamburger buns, split, cut side toasted or grilled
6 thick slices sharp cheddar cheese
2 cups baby arugula leaves
1 ripe avocado, peeled and sliced
To caramelize the onions, heat oil over low heat in a large skillet. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, for 20 minutes or until soft and deep golden brown. Don’t rush this part. It really does take about 20 minutes to develop the sugars and caramelize the onions. Trust me, your patience will be rewarded. They key to success is low and slow. Season with salt and pepper and add the balsamic vinegar during the last couple of minutes to deglaze the pan. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Spread tomato halves on a sheet pan and drizzle with olive oil. Season generously with salt and pepper and toss together to ensure everything is coated evenly. Roast for 45 minutes, cut side up, without turning, until the tomatoes are concentrated and caramelized. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.
To make the ketchup, Stir together the ketchup, chipotle peppers and adobo sauce in a small bowl. Whisk in the vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.
To make the burgers, whisk together the egg yolks, steak sauce and salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add the ground brisket and put a touch of olive oil on clean hands to keep meat from sticking and to prevent over mixing. Carefully work the meat with your fingertips until just combined. It’s important not to overwork the meat, doing so results in a tough burger. To form patties, shape a loose ball in your hand and press half a tablespoon of the cold butter into the center of the meat. Lightly form each hamburger with the balls of your hands making sure the butter is entirely encased, but don’t pack the meat. The more you pack, the denser the burger will be and it will leave more potential for shrinkage. The burgers should be half an inch thick. Season both sides of the burgers with salt and pepper.
Heat an outdoor grill or indoor grill pan to medium-high.
Grill the burgers for 5 to 7 minutes on each side to desired doneness. Remove to a plate, add cheese and cover with aluminum foil. Allow the burgers to rest for 5 minutes and serve immediately on buns with desired fixin’s.
*Dried, smoked jalapenos in a spicy tomato sauce called adobo; available on the International aisle of most supermarkets and in Latin markets.
This is the ONLY rib recipe you will ever need. Sticky and sweet. Absolute perfection!
Serves 6
FOR THE RIBS
1 (1.5 liter) bottle of Coca-Cola (not diet!) 1 large onion, quartered 6 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed 2 bay leaves 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns 2 racks baby back ribs (about 4 pounds)
FOR THE SAUCE 2/3 stick unsalted butter 1 small white onion, diced 2 cloves of garlic, minced 1 cup ketchup 1½ tablespoons yellow mustard ¼ cup dark brown sugar 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 1 (12 ounce) can Coca-Cola (not diet!) Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste
In a large pot, add the (1.5 liter) bottle of Coca-Cola, onion, garlic, bay leaves and peppercorns. Add the ribs and, if necessary a bit of water just to ensure the ribs are submerged completely. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to a simmer, turning the ribs occasionally, until the meat pulls away from the bone, about 1 hour.
Meanwhile, to make the sauce combine the butter, onion, garlic, ketchup, mustard, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, and (12 ounces) Coca-Cola in large heavy sauce pan. Bring to a boil and reduce heat. Simmer for about 25 minutes stirring often until sauce is thickened and reduced. Season to taste with salt and pepper and let cool slightly. Using a blender, puree the sauce.
Note: Sauce can be made up to 5 days ahead and stored in the refrigerator in an air-tight container.
Preheat the grill to high.
Remove the ribs from the pot, pat dry, season with salt and pepper and brush liberally with the sauce. Grill, turning often, until charred on the outside, about 8 minutes. Loosely tent the ribs with foil and let rest for 5 minutes before cutting into individual ribs. Serve extra sauce on the side for dipping.
In the summer when tomatoes are at their peak, they’re made even better when introduced to the blistering heat of the grill and paired with the pungent sharpness of feta cheese. This dish is great at room temperature.
3 ounces (½ cup) good-quality mild feta chees ¼ cup sour cream 2 tablespoons water 2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ teaspoons minced garlic 2 ½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil 2 medium zucchini (about a pound) 3/4 pound cherry tomatoes on the vine Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Preheat an outdoor grill or indoor grill pan over high heat.
In a food processor, puree the feta, sour cream, water, lemon juice, and garlic until smooth. With the motor running, add 1½ tablespoons oil in a slow stream. Add basil and salt and pepper; pulse briefly to combine. Thinly slice the zucchini lengthwise (a little over 1/8-inch thick) using a vegetable peeler. Toss the zucchini with the tomatoes in a large bowl with the remaining oil and season with salt and pepper. If using loose tomatoes, thread onto skewers.
Grill, turning once with tongs, until vegetables are just tender (about 3 to 5 minutes) and have those beautiful grill marks. Serve with feta sauce on the side.
Private chef and cookbook author David Lawrence grew up in a house where the kitchen was always abuzz with activity. He learned early the simple pleasures of cooking and spent years assisting in his Mother’s kitchen, a woman he affectionately describes as a Martha Stewart incarnate, minus the chic poncho and clunky ankle bracelet! From then on David knew his mission was clear, he wanted to feed and entertain people.
David’s cookbook, Boy Eats World! A Private Chef Cooks Simple Gourmet, (Lake Isle Press) is all about having fun in the kitchen and demystifies cooking for the Atari generation. David’s humorous style and easy to follow recipes will help even the most timid cook feel like a kitchen rock star!
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Glancing over the recipe, you may find it odd, even alarming that I’ve instructed you to use 1½ cups of kosher salt (no, I haven’t lost it completely and it’s not a typo). It is called Salt Steak after all. This method of grilling the meat, on a bed of coarse salt placed directly on the paper towels, the whole thing over the flame, doesn’t make the meat taste too salty. Instead, it keeps the meat incredibly tender and seasons it perfectly. This method is loosely based on a cooking technique used in both Italy and France for cooking chicken and whole fish encased in salt. 
This recipe calls for London Broil, which is inexpensive, feeds an army and goes on sale all summer long. Interestingly, London Broil is a cooking method, NOT a cut of meat. Contrary to its name, it's virtually unknown in London, England. It can be flank steak, but is usually top round roast. If you’ve never dealt with London Broil before, it’s important to remember a few things: for really tender meat, it needs to be cooked to medium-rare, sliced thin on a 45° angle, and always, always cut across the grain. 
I have a weakness for big juicy slabs of red meat, all beautifully seared and crusty on the outside, yet tender and pink on the inside. The following is my idea of red meat perfection and was one of my favorite summer meals as a kid. It still is! The combination of the thin slices of London Broil, cooked medium-rare and laid over garlic butter-soaked bread is mouthwatering. Paired simply with grilled corn on the cob and mushrooms sautéed in garlic, butter and thyme and you have a fantastic and memorable meal.
Lay the whole thing on the grill and - stick with me here - don’t be alarmed when the dry edges of the paper towel catch fire and burn up almost immediately; the soaked portion of towel will be fine. Grill the meat for about 10 to 12 minutes per side turning it once back onto the paper towel. For medium rare, it’s done when an instant read thermometer registers 130° to 135°. Transfer the meat to a cutting board, tent it loosely with foil and allow it to rest for 10 minutes. 
Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, melt the butter with the garlic and allow the flavors to infuse for a few minutes. Pour the butter into a shallow dish and stir in the chopped parsley. 
To serve, slice the London Broil diagonally across the grain into thin strips. Quickly dip one side of the bread into the melted garlic butter and place butter side up on the plate. Lay several slices of meat over the bread and dig in greedily.
