Winter Warmth: Soul-Soothing Comfort from the Kitchen

There are times in life when I seek solace from a harsh world purely through the means of butter, cream, and starch. Sometimes nothing else will do. It’s times like these when I just want to retreat into my shell, put on my fuzziest slippers and softest, most lived-in robe, and putter around the kitchen making something warm and soul-soothing. As clichéd as that sounds, it really is one of my guiltiest and most savored pleasures, and my preferred method of restoring balance and calm to my hectic life.

There’s something about a simmering pot on the stove that makes me feel all is right with the world. Especially when the end result is a big bowl of Hearty Winter Chili, topped with cheese and sour cream and accompanied by warm, tender corn bread, cooked the old-fashioned way in a cast-iron skillet. When I’m feeling particularly out-of-sorts, I find the meditative repetition of stirring a pan of Saffron Risotto for 20 minutes - the only way to achieve that melting creaminess - an almost Zen-like experience. Top it with juicy grilled shrimp and the dish becomes transcendent!

When I crave something just a little more exotic and worldly, but no less warming and gratifying, it has to be Indian Coconut-Chicken Curry, spiked with coriander, cumin, and creamy coconut milk. This dish can be made in minutes and tastes even better reheated the next day.

And of course, for many, the ultimate comfort food comes in the form of chocolate. Old-Fashioned Whoopie Pies have been a favorite of mine since childhood, and these dense chocolate cakes sandwiching a billowy layer of marshmallow cream are the ultimate sinful indulgence.

So the next time you need a break from the world, or just need to indulge in a little guilty pleasure of your own, you just may find it in a bowl of something warm and comforting made in your own kitchen. Lived-in robe and fuzzy slippers optional.

Hearty Winter Chili

Serves 8

FOR CHILI
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 1/2 lbs. lean ground sirloin
1/4 cup dark chili powder
2 tablespoons grill seasoning
1 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 to 3 tablespoons hot sauce, to taste
1 large onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 large bell peppers, chopped
1/2 bottle beer (about 1 cup)
1 (14-oz.) can tomato sauce
1/2 cup smoky barbecue sauce

FOR GARNISH
Sharp cheddar cheese, grated
Sour cream
Scallions, thinly sliced

In a large stock pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add olive oil followed by ground sirloin. Season meat with chili powder, grill seasoning, cumin, Worcestershire, and hot sauce. Break up the meat into small crumbles as it cooks.

Add onion, garlic, and bell peppers and cook until onions are translucent and soft, about 10 minutes more. Add beer and deglaze the pan, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan and allowing the alcohol to cook off. Add tomato and barbecue sauces and bring to a bubble. Let chili simmer 15 minutes. Adjust seasonings and heat level to your taste. Remove from heat and serve with your favorite garnishes.

Hot Skillet Corn Bread with Honey Butter

Serves 10 to 12

FOR CORN BREAD
1 1/2 cups white or yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon. granulated sugar
1 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
2 eggs
1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
2 tablespoon vegetable oil

FOR HONEY BUTTER
1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup honey
Pinch of kosher salt

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt. In a small bowl, whisk together melted butter, buttermilk, eggs, and corn, and fold into the dry ingredients, stirring until just combined.

Over high heat, add oil to cast iron skillet and heat until smoking. Quickly pour batter into the hot skillet and carefully and quickly transfer the skillet to the preheated oven.

Bake for 10 to15 minutes, or until corn bread is golden-brown around the edges and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. The top should spring back when lightly pressed. Cut into wedges and serve slathered with honey butter.

Indian Coconut-Chicken Curry

Serves 6

1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
4 teaspoon finely chopped ginger
2 tablespoon ground coriander
2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper, or to taste
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup chicken stock
2 pounds boneless chicken, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/3 cup chopped cilantro, for garnish (optional)
Steamed basmati rice, for serving

In a Dutch oven or enameled cast-iron casserole, heat oil, then add onion and cook until nicely browned around the edges, about 7 minutes. Add garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute. Add coriander, cumin, turmeric, cayenne, and black pepper and stir for 1 minute. Add salt, tomatoes, and chicken stock and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the tomatoes are softened. Add chicken and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.

Add coconut milk and simmer partially covered for another 15 minutes, or until the sauce thickens and the chicken is cooked. Add cinnamon and cloves and simmer another minute. Remove from heat and garnish with cilantro. Serve with steamed basmati rice.

Saffron Risotto with Grilled Shrimp

Serves 4

FOR RISOTTO
5 cups chicken stock
1/4 cup olive oil, divided
1/4 cup unsalted butter, divided
1 large shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
2 pinches saffron threads
2/3 cups dry white wine
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

FOR SHRIMP
1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Preheat outdoor grill or indoor grill pan over high heat.

Heat chicken stock over medium-high heat until just below the boil. In a large sauté pan, heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil and 2 Tbsp. butter over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic and sweat until translucent, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes.

Add rice and saffron, turning to coat, and sauté until the edges of the rice begin to look slightly translucent, about 2 minutes. Add wine and cook until most of the liquid is absorbed and the pan is almost dry. Add one ladleful of hot stock, stirring constantly until liquid is almost absorbed. Continue adding stock, one ladle at a time, stirring each addition until the liquid is almost absorbed, about 22 to 25 minutes total. Stir in remaining butter and cheese and season with salt and pepper; cover.

Toss shrimp with remaining oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill shrimp until pink, opaque, and curled in on themselves, about 2 minutes per side. Spritz shrimp with lemon juice and parsley and serve over risotto.

Old-Fashioned Whoopie Pies

Makes 8 pies

FOR CAKES
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup Dutch-process cocoa powder
1 1/4 teaspoon. baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 cup dark brown sugar, packed
1 egg

FOR FILLING
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
1 (7 oz.) jar marshmallow fluff
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Line two sheet pans with parchment paper.

In a small bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt. In another small bowl, stir together buttermilk and 1 tsp. vanilla.

In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream together 1/2 cup butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg, scraping down the sides of the bowl to combine. Reduce mixer speed to low and alternately mix in dry ingredients and buttermilk mixture in batches, beginning and ending with flour. Scrape down side of bowl occasionally and mix until smooth.

Using a 1/4-cup ice cream scoop, drop mounds of batter about 2 inches apart on prepared sheet pans. Bake in upper and lower thirds of oven, switching position of sheets halfway through baking, until tops are puffed and cakes spring back when touched, 12–13 minutes. Transfer cakes to a rack to cool completely.

To make the filling, cream together remaining butter and confectioners’ sugar until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add vanilla and marshmallow fluff and continue beating until smooth and light, about 2 more minutes.

To assemble the pies, dollop a rounded tablespoon of filling on flat sides of half of cakes and top with remaining cakes.

Awaken Your Senses & Help a Worthy Food Charity Win $10,000!

It's official, fall is finally here! We're almost 30 days into the brrrrr months (Septembrrrr, Octobrrrr. You get the picture) and that means, roaring fires, my favorite old robe, comfy slippers and the return of the hot breakfast.


As excited as I am for the change of seasons (okay, I admit they don't actually change much in L.A, but let me have my moment) I'm even more excited to announce that Good Bite and I have teamed up with Quaker Oats to launch the Awaken Your Senses Challenge. It's a campaign that takes the favorite food memories of twelve of the nation's top food bloggers and allows yours truly to use them as inspiration to create twelve original Oatmeal Creations. And how cool is this... America (that's you guys!) gets to vote on the winner! But wait! It gets even better...

Every two weeks, a new round of videos will be posted where you can vote for your favorite. With each round, semi-finalists will be selected.

And the best part...

At the end of eight weeks the blogger’s video with the most votes wins! And $10,000 will be donated to their favorite food-related charity! So what are you waiting for? Head to YouTube.com/QuakerTalk and vote!

A couple of behind the scenes shots from the Quaker Awaken Your Senses shoot.

Life is Just a Bowl of...Cherry Garcia?

Forgive the obviousness of the title. Clearly the brain freeze that comes from nearly non-stop ice cream making (and eating) is getting to me, stifling my creativity for writing perhaps, while vehemently fanning the flames of an undying obsession. Let this also serve as my excuse for not posting in over a week, but I’m sure you’ll forgive me when you taste my latest creation. Well, my homage to a classic Ben & Jerry’s creation really. One inspired by the bountiful red cherries of the summer season.

When it first occurred to me to turn those ruby colored, jewel-like fruits into ice cream I decided to take my search online to find a published recipe for Cherry Garcia. I was disappointed to find that none of the recipes started with a cooked custard base, something I’ve extolled the virtues of before and have become almost evangelical about. I’m convinced it’s the only way to get that densely rich, über-creaminess that is paramount in great ice cream. So, heaving a heavy sigh I decided the only thing to do was to write a recipe of my own.

And so the journey began. As is my creative process, my kitchen cupboards were soon plastered with post-it notes filled with my nearly indiscernible scrawl as I mixed, whisked, scalded and stirred my way to the perfect custard base. Too many egg yolks and the ice cream tastes “eggy.” Too few and it’s not dense enough. 7 egg yolks I decided were the perfect amount. Now it needed just the right hit of sugary sweetness. I added sugar starting with less, tasting and adding more as I went until I’d achieved the perfect balance of sweet but not cloying. Whenever I write a recipe the biggest challenge is remembering to scribble down each addition on those post-it notes as I go, before I forget what I’ve done. As you can surely imagine this becomes an even bigger challenge when I’m writing cocktail recipes, but I’ll get to that another day. I decided that a bit of black cherry preserves would be just the thing to give extra cherry flavor and a rosy blush to the ice cream base. When I was satisfied with the proportions of tart and sweet I whisked the cream into very soft peaks and folded it into the cooled custard. This extra step of lightly whipping the cream only adds to the dreamy, cloud-like texture that is both light and dense at the same time. A culinary contradiction of the fondest sort!

After a 25 minute whir in the Cuisinart, the ice cream was at the glorious soft serve stage. This is exactly when you want to mix in the cherries and chocolate and where I stand hovering over the ice cream maker, spoon in hand, greedily shoveling big mouthfuls of the frozen ambrosia. I heave another heavy sigh, but this time it's full of deep and utter satisfaction.

Ah yes, life is indeed a bowl of Cherry Garcia.

Homemade Ben & Jerry’s Cherry Garcia
(With Two Flavor Variations)

Densely rich, über-creamy and studded with bits of fresh cherries and dark chocolate. Enough said.

Makes a scant 2 quarts

1½ cups whole milk
7 large eggs yolks
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
6 tablespoons black cherry preserves
1½ cups heavy cream, lightly whipped
4 ounces good quality dark chocolate, chopped
1 cup fresh cherries, pitted and chopped

Heat the milk in a pan, and while it’s getting warm, beat together the sugar and egg yolks and vanilla extract in the bowl of a freestanding mixer with a paddle attachment until the mixture is thick, pale yellow and falls back on itself in a ribbon, about 3 minutes. When the milk is just below the boil slowly drizzle it in a thin and continuous stream while whisking briskly so the egg is gradually warmed up. Return everything to the saucepan and cook while stirring with a wooden spoon. Make sure that you are constantly scraping the spoon across the bottom of the pan so the custard does not scorch. The custard is done when it has thickened slightly and can evenly coat the back of the spoon and when you run your finger along the back of the spoon and it holds the “line.” Don’t let the mixture come to a boil, or it may curdle.

Strain the custard into a metal bowl through a fine sieve to remove any bits of egg and stir in the black cherry preserves. Nestle the bowl of custard into a large bowl of ice water to cool more quickly. I do this because I’m incredibly impatient, but you could just put the whole thing in the fridge to cool completely. Lightly whip the cream until it holds a very soft peak and fold into the cooled custard. Continue stirring occasionally until mixture is cold, about 20 minutes.

Transfer the custard to an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. When the ice cream is almost finished churning add in the chopped chocolate and the cherries to combine. Put the finished ice cream in a storage container and freeze until firm.

*Variations: This basic ice cream recipe is so versatile that you can add any flavor combinations you like to the base. Below are two of my favorites.

Toasted Coconut: Substitute 1 (15 ounce) can Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut (NOT coconut milk!) in place of the cherry preserves and 1 cup sweetened toasted coconut in place of the cherries and chocolate.

Peanut Butter Cup: Substitute 1 cup creamy peanut butter in place of the cherry preserves and 1 bag of Reese’s mini peanut butter cups, chopped, in place of the cherries and chocolate.

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The Future Called & I Let It Go To Voicemail

I have an uncanny knack for regularly arriving at the future slightly ahead of the rest and waiting for them to catch up. At the risk of sounding (even more) arrogant, I’ve always fancied myself a bit of a Jetson living in a world of Flintstones when it comes to anything even remotely pop culture related. Case in point: I actually cancelled my subscription to US Weekly because I noticed the latest issue at the grocery store checkout several days before it arrived in my mail box! Dear US Weekly: Celebrity news has a shelf life! You know when you hear a song on mainstream radio and you announce that you really like it and someone rains on your parade by piping up, “Oh that tired old song?! I had the dance mix import from the UK nine months ago!” Subtext: You’re sooo 2000-LATE! I’m totally that guy! Obnoxious? Maybe. Okay, definitely, but I’ve always loved being “in the know” at least 15 minutes before everyone else catches on. Call it a personality quirk or a design flaw, but I can’t help it! It’s no wonder one of my favorite moments in last year’s Sex and the City movie had the girls sitting around a table sipping cosmos in a chic Manhattan restaurant and Carrie asking, “Why did we stop drinking these again?” Without missing a beat Samantha replied, “Because everyone else started.” Enough said.

And that brings me to the last few months of my life - the part where I was apparently living in the dark, or even worse, the past! Yikes! Seems I may be losing my touch. I got a call from my manager one day last spring asking me to meet with a cutting edge production company in L.A. (http://deca.tv/) about being a host of a new cooking web series called Good Bite (http://goodbite.com/). “Web series?!” I asked, already conjuring up inventive excuses to get out of the meeting. “Web series,“ she reiterated, in a tone that I knew better than to argue with. Perhaps this is a good time to mention that my nickname for my manager is “Momager;” you know, like Dina Lohan or Terri Shields. Anyway, I did what I was told, met with the production company and loved what I heard! On my way home from the meeting, stuck in traffic on L.A’s 405 freeway I called my manager to say, “Get me this job! I have to be a part of this.”

Working hard behind the scenes on Good Bite

What I had been blissfully unaware of is just how big internet programming is becoming. It really is the future and apparently I missed the memo (insert Flintstone joke here). More and more people are going to their computer screens for entertainment, news and information. We no longer have to worry if we missed the latest episode of CSI, or much more critical for me, The Real Housewives of New Jersey (can you imagine?!) Entire episodes of television series are available online or on iTunes, many the very next day! Even Food Network has jumped on the bandwagon by launching their own site dedicated exclusively to webisode programming (http://food2.com/). I hate being the last to know.

Perhaps one of the coolest things DECA is doing with the creation of Good Bite is bringing together America’s top food bloggers for lively online video discussions about all things food and cooking, along with demo videos from myself and the other Good Bite hosts. And what an honor it is to be working along side such an esteemed group. Each 2-minute episode of the show makes delicious food easy, provides accessible recipes and solutions for home cooks and an opportunity for you to become part of the discussion. The Good Bite website is focused on finding the very best in food and bringing it to you in a fresh and inventive way.

Working hard behind the scenes on Good Bite

All I can say is it’s a good thing I didn’t let the phone go to voicemail the day my Momager called about that fateful meeting. Turns out she had some news for me... about the future.

Killer Burgers with Roasted Tomatoes,
Caramelized Balsamic Onions
& Smoky Chipotle Ketchup

Serves 6

FOR THE BURGERS
2 1/4 pounds ground brisket
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons steak sauce (recommended: A1 Brand)
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper
3 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter

FOR THE ONIONS
1 pound red onions, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch rings
2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Kosher salt, to taste
2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar

FOR THE KETCHUP
1 cup ketchup
1 to 2 teaspoons canned chipotle peppers*, seeded and diced, or to taste
1 to 2 tablespoons adobo sauce from can, or to taste
2 teaspoons aged balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

FOR THE TOMATOES
6 Roma tomatoes
Olive oil for drizzling
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

FIXIN’S
6 Brioche Rolls or good hamburger buns, split, cut side toasted or grilled
6 thick slices sharp cheddar cheese
2 cups baby arugula leaves
1 ripe avocado, peeled and sliced

To caramelize the onions, heat oil over low heat in a large skillet. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, for 20 minutes or until soft and deep golden brown. Don’t rush this part. It really does take about 20 minutes to develop the sugars and caramelize the onions. Trust me, your patience will be rewarded. They key to success is low and slow. Season with salt and pepper and add the balsamic vinegar during the last couple of minutes to deglaze the pan. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Spread tomato halves on a sheet pan and drizzle with olive oil. Season generously with salt and pepper and toss together to ensure everything is coated evenly. Roast for 45 minutes, cut side up, without turning, until the tomatoes are concentrated and caramelized. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.

To make the ketchup, Stir together the ketchup, chipotle peppers and adobo sauce in a small bowl. Whisk in the vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.

To make the burgers, whisk together the egg yolks, steak sauce and salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add the ground brisket and put a touch of olive oil on clean hands to keep meat from sticking and to prevent over mixing. Carefully work the meat with your fingertips until just combined. It’s important not to overwork the meat, doing so results in a tough burger. To form patties, shape a loose ball in your hand and press half a tablespoon of the cold butter into the center of the meat. Lightly form each hamburger with the balls of your hands making sure the butter is entirely encased, but don’t pack the meat. The more you pack, the denser the burger will be and it will leave more potential for shrinkage. The burgers should be half an inch thick. Season both sides of the burgers with salt and pepper.

Heat an outdoor grill or indoor grill pan to medium-high.

Grill the burgers for 5 to 7 minutes on each side to desired doneness. Remove to a plate, add cheese and cover with aluminum foil. Allow the burgers to rest for 5 minutes and serve immediately on buns with desired fixin’s.

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Peach Crisp & Therapy

I blame it all on my Mother. She was the queen of the perfect pie crust, hands down. People would rave when they tasted it, they’d marvel at the flaky texture and the perfect golden color. They’d inevitably ask for the recipe. She’d share it with them gladly. There wasn’t much to it, after all, just flour, salt, fat and ice water. “The same things I use!” they’d say. Ah yes, but the “secret,” she’d tell them with a Bree Van de Kamp-esque smile, lies in the technique. Ice-cold ingredients and never, ever roll out the crust more than once or it will be tough. Couple that with the fact that I never did get the Easy Bake Oven I so desperately wanted as a kid and you can see how my Mother single-handedly scared me off of making pie pastry for life! Or at least until my twenties, when after years of therapy for my culinary self-esteem I gathered the courage to attempt it again without fear of failure or judgment.

I'm kidding. Kinda.

While I’m happy to report that I’m no longer intimidated by pie pastry, I’m also not afraid to admit that I tend to favor quick and easy in the kitchen (something pie pastry doesn’t have going for it). I suppose this is my not-so-subtle way of admitting that I’m sorely lacking in the pastry-patience department, especially on hot summer days when I’d rather be anywhere but kitchen-bound, saddled with a rolling pin. That’s doesn’t mean however, that I’m not always up for a good homemade dessert, especially one that takes advantage of the beautiful stone fruits of the season. Enter: Peach Crisp!

Crisps, crumbles and cobblers, in the summer in particular, are wonderful things and require no further embellishment other than perhaps, a scoop of good vanilla ice cream. They are the essence of all that is desirable of the season and they satisfy my constant, if nagging need - yes need - for something homey and sweet. To further bolster my case, crisps are a mere fraction the effort of pie and you get all of the pay off without all the work of pie pastry - or the therapy bill it can bring.

Whew! Dessert handled. Culinary self-esteem intact.

Summer Peach Crisp

with Pecans & Toffee Bits

This recipe is from my good friend Susan Cox of Dana Point, California. Or as she’s affectionately known, my Real OC Housewife! Thanks, Susan!

Serves 6

FOR THE FILLING
6 cups peaches, peeled and sliced (about 2.5 lbs)
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

FOR THE TOPPING
¾ cup all-purpose flour
1/3 cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
¾ cup English toffee bits (like Skor or Heath)
½ cup pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place six 1¼ cup ramekins on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper; set aside.

Meanwhile, immerse the peaches in boiling water for 30 seconds, then place them in a bowl of ice water. Peel the peaches and slice them into thick wedges and place them into a large bowl. Add the sugar, brown sugar, flour and lime juice and blend well. Divide filling evenly among ramekins.

To make the topping, whisk flour, brown sugar and salt in bowl to blend. Using fingertips rub in butter until mixture hold together in clumps. Stir in toffee and pecans; sprinkle over filling.

Bake Crisps until filling bubbles and topping is golden brown, about 40 minutes. Cool 10 minutes. Serve warm with ice cream if desired.

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To Brine or Not to Brine: That is the Question

This is my rebel yell in recipe form in support of the pork chop. For some reason it just doesn’t get the respect it deserves. And it’s no wonder, when you see the pitiful displays of wafer-thin chops laid out in grocery store meat cases across the country. It doesn’t do much to inspire gastronomic creativity or debunk the myth that pork chops are dry, chewy and generally flavorless. I can’t pretend I haven’t been the recipient of a few tough, overcooked pork chops that could have passed as shoe leather in my day, no matter how much shaking and baking was involved! However, in my never ending pursuit of culinary enlightenment I’ve figured out a few things along the way that make all the difference.

1. Forget those wafer-thin pork chops in your grocer’s meat counter. Pork is bred so lean these days that it’s nearly impossible to cook something that thin without drying it out. Instead, become fast friends with the guy behind the meat counter. Ask him to cut you some nice, thick (I’m talking 2-inch thick) center-cut chops. This is the first step to changing your relationship with pork chops. I know it can be a bit intimidating talking to the gruff-looking guy behind the counter wielding the meat cleaver and sporting the bloody apron, but he doesn’t bite and special requests are actually a part of his job.

2. Brining is key. Admittedly, this requires a bit of foresight in your menu planning since the chops need to hang out in the brine for a minimum of 8 hours, but 24 is preferred to get the maximum flavor and benefit. If you’re not familiar with brining it’s an uber simple process of creating a salty solution infused with aromatics that not only give the meat big flavor from the inside out, but keep it incredibly tender and juicy. Trust me: once you’ve used this method you’ll never go back. (See recipe below).

3. What ever you do, DO NOT overcook your meat! You can brine your pork chops for a week, but if you overcook them, it's not going to matter. A perfectly cooked pork chop is actually (lean forward people) still slightly pink in the center. It should be cooked to 145° to ensure tender juiciness. I know that some of you are still adhering to your Grandma's rule that pork has to be well done otherwise, "You could end up with trichinosis!" Hmmm, perhaps now we know where pork chops that bear more of a resemblance to footwear than food came from. I know it's hard to question Grandma's wisdom, but not unlike the moment you came to grips with the truth about Santa Claus, you'll come to accept this one too. Sorry, Grandma.

If I’ve done my job effectively, hopefully I’ve convinced you to get out there and try pork chops again for the very first time. Especially when they're Brown Sugar-Brined Pork Chops with Caramelized Onion and Peach Marmalade. And for the record, the brining question? Strictly rhetorical.

Grilled Brown Sugar-Brined Pork Chops
with Caramelized Onion Peach Marmalade

Serves 4

FOR THE BRINE
7 cups warm water
¼ cup kosher salt
½ cup packed light brown sugar
1 sprig fresh rosemary
3 teaspoons black peppercorns
4 boneless, center-cut pork chops (each about 2 inches thick)

FOR THE MARMALADE
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups sliced sweet onions (Vidalia or Maui)
2 cups chopped peeled peaches, fresh or frozen
1/3 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

In a large bowl combine the salt, brown sugar, rosemary sprig and peppercorns. Add the warm water and stir until salt and sugar are dissolved. Allow water to cool slightly and place pork in brine and set a plate on top to keep meat completely submerged. Cover with plastic wrap and chill at least 8 hours or overnight.

To peel the peaches, bring a pot of water to the boil. Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with ice water to have at the ready. Plunk the peaches into the boiling water and let them go for roughly 45 seconds to a minute. Remove the peaches and immediately plunge into the ice bath. When they're cool enough to handle gently peel away the skins.

To make the marmalade, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook over low heat, stirring often, until transparent and starting to caramelize, 15 to 20 minutes. Add peaches, granulated sugar and vinegar. Cook, stirring often, until the peaches start to break down and the marmalade is caramelized and sticky, about 15 minutes. Stir in the rosemary and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Preheat an outdoor grill or indoor grill pan to medium-high heat.

Remove pork from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Brush pork lightly with olive oil and season generously on all sides with pepper. Extra salt isn’t necessary because of the brining process.

Grill pork chops, covered, turning once, until meat is done, but just slightly pink in the middle (145° on an instant read thermometer). Transfer pork to a platter, tent with foil, and let rest 5 to 10 minutes. Serve with marmalade.

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The Ice Cream-Making Monkey on My Back

I may very well be headed for an intervention. I’m afraid I’ve got a monkey on my back and below is the recipe that started it all. A few days ago I posted a recipe for Cheesecake Ice Cream with Blueberry Sauce and found myself pontificating about the exact moment in time my obsession crystallized. I was given a copy of Padma Lakshmi’s latest cookbook, Tangy Tart Hot & Sweet, a beautiful tome full of exotic recipes made simple for the everyday foodie. I was drawn in by her engaging narrative, innovative twists on cooking and of course, the beautiful food photography. When I stumbled upon her recipe for Rose Petal Pistachio Ice Cream, I read the recipe with great interest and could just imagine a dense custard-based ice cream delicately perfumed with the essence of rose. I knew I was in trouble. Deep trouble. I had always resisted the notion of making my own ice cream with the same vigilance I resist making my own mayonnaise. Not that I have anything against a good homemade mayo, I just don’t have the time for such things. Oh, who am I kidding? It’s the patience that I lack. There, I said it.

Back to ice cream…

From that moment forward I went on a whirlwind ice cream making binge. I dabbled in the standards of course and got those out of the way first. I experimented with cooked custard bases and not, and have come to the solid conclusion that a cooked custard wins every time, because without it you simply cannot get that dense creaminess that is key in great ice cream. When the inevitable next step in my obsession occurred and mere chocolate, vanilla and strawberry were no longer enough, I decided to up the ante and started searching for more daring, edgy flavors. I was like a junkie chasing the proverbial ice cream-making dragon! I was elated when a search on the internet turned up a recipe for David Lebovitz’s Candied Bacon Ice Cream. Yes, you read that correctly! As a kid who was raised with a can of bacon grease in the fridge that my Mom used to fry up everything (and I do mean everything!) this recipe spoke to me. I am a firm believer in the gospel of bacon and all things salty and sweet; this ice cream simply put, is the Alpha and the Omega! However, I’m still deciding if David Lebovitz is the Devil himself for creating it.

With the arrival of the hot summer months comes the beckoning call of my Cuisinart ice cream maker in the form of its comforting, motorized whir that brings with it the promise of meltingly sweet frozen decadence in short order. I’ve tried stashing it away, out of sight, but to no avail. I know it’s there and that knowledge eventually erodes away at my resolve, swimsuit season or not! It seems that I may be saddled with this ice cream-making monkey for a while. Any suggestions as to what I should name him?

Rose Petal & Pistachio Ice Cream

From Tangy Tart Hot & Sweet
by Padma Lakshmi

Makes about 1 quart

2 cups heavy cream
2 cups whole milk
4 large egg yolks
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 tablespoons rose water*
5 tablespoons rose petal jam*
¼ cup crushed, raw, unsalted pistachios
2 tablespoons dried rose petals, without stems or leaves, just petals

Heat the cream and milk over medium heat for 5 to 8 minutes, until the mixture is just below the boil. In a small bowl beat together the egg yolks, sugar and vanilla until the mixture is smooth. Add about ¼ cup of the hot cream mixture to the yolks stirring vigorously so the eggs won’t scramble. Add warmed yolk mixture back to the heated cream, whisking constantly over low heat until the mixture thickens slightly, about 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the rose water and rose jam. Cool the mixture completely in ice water bath (my prefered method) or in the refrigerator.

Pour the cooled custard into your ice cream maker and follow the manufacturer’s directions. When finished churning , remove the ice cream and fold in the pistachios and rose petals if using, mixing well to distribute evenly. Freeze ice cream until ready to serve.

*Rose water and Turkish rose jam are available in Middle Eastern markets and online.

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