F o r k i n g D e l i c i o u s !

Tapping into my Inner Oprah: A Favorite Things Giveaway

2011-02-25T21:43:00.000-08:00

I'm having a mini Oprah moment. By that I mean I have the opportunity to share and give away one of my favorite things to my readers. Okay, admittedly Oprah gives away cars and Rolex watches and trips to Australia, complete with a visit from John Travolta, but I stress the "mini" part of my opening sentence. Be that as it may, who doesn't love free swag? And I've got some pretty cool swag burning a hole in my pocket... A trio of swanky soy candles from www.modernlightcandles.com! Chic and sophisticated, these long-burning candles (more than 50 hours) not only look great in any home, but come in 6 intoxicating scents that range from light and floral (Flora No. 23), to woodsy, deep and sensual (Midnight Noir). There's even a Fresh Cut Grass scent that will have you dreaming of spring.

To become eligible to win these 3 gorgeous candles, here's all you have to do: Log on to Facebook and "like" the Modern Light Candles page. If you're already a fan, then you're already entered to win. Then, send an email to info@modernlightcandles.com with your name and let them know you "liked" the page (this also provides an email contact to notify you if you win). Simple! Only one entry per person please. The winner will be chosen at random in 2 weeks (Saturday, March 12th) and notified by email.

Okay, so it's not exactly John Travolta in a pilot uniform offering to whisk you away, all the while Oprah shrieking, "JOHN TRAVOLTAAAAA!!!!" But it's still pretty cool. And great candles are definitely some of my favorite things. Lets get some Facebook fan traffic for Modern Light Candles and you could be basking in 3 of their sophisticated scents in no time.

Set It & Forget It. The Easiest Risotto Ever!

2010-12-30T14:35:00.000-08:00

It’s not often that I get giddy about a recipe. Well, maybe I get giddy about recipes more often than the average person, but it’s not out of control or anything. It's just that I can't help but get enthusiastic when something that seems too good to be true, culinarily speaking, ends up delivering on its promise. This particular bout of giddiness started with a healthy dose of skepticism when presented with the notion of a risotto that could be made entirely in the oven. A sort of set-it-and-forget-it risotto. The last time I was this excited about a recipe it was for Sullivan Street Bakery's 4-ingredient French Boule you make in a Dutch oven that requires absolutely no bread-making skills whatsoever. The one that flew around the internet a couple of years ago faster than Lindsay Lohan’s latest mug shot.

I happened upon this improbable recipe way too early one morning, bleary eyed, as I stumbled around the kitchen trying to make some coffee, the Today Show droning in the background. As I took my first few sips and felt the caffeine starting to course through my veins (a sure sign that I’m coming alive for the day) I noticed Ina Garten (the Barefoot Contessa) on the screen touting recipes from her latest tome, How Easy Is That? I admit I was only half paying attention to her chirpy banter with Matt Lauer until she started talking about a recipe for the “easiest risotto ever!” A risotto that requires “almost no stirring.” A risotto as creamy and delicious as any you’ve ever had. She had me at “no stirring.”

I turned up the TV and paid close attention. She explained to an inquisitive Matt that this was a risotto that didn’t require constant stirring. If you’ve ever made risotto, or been too afraid to attempt it, it’s usually the constant stirring thing that puts people off. She casually poured the Arborio rice into a Dutch oven, along with some simmering chicken stock, homemade of course, because we all have that on hand. She explained that the whole procession would be placed into a 350º oven for a mere forty-five minutes and through the magic of television, produced a steaming pot of pretty unimpressive-looking rice. But then, before our eyes the magic did happen and it had nothing to do with television. I watched intently as she stirred in some more chicken stock, a splash of white wine, a generous handful of Parmesan cheese and of course, a big knob of butter. As she continued to stir vigorously, the rather sad-looking mixture began to pull together into a creamy, glossy and cohesive looking pot of gorgeous risotto. I blinked a few times, assuming I was still half asleep, but there it was on the screen, a risotto as delicious and sumptuous looking as any I’d ever seen and one that defied the very logic of the dish.

Needless to say, I decided I had to try this particular method of making risotto that very night for dinner. The recipe was still fresh in my head, but I couldn't help being a bit skeptical as I gathered my ingredients, all of which I happened to have on hand (with the exception of that fantasy homemade chicken stock). I settled for boxed stock and just hoped the entire notion of a no-stir risotto from the oven wasn’t the biggest fantasy of all.

I tweaked the recipe slightly, adding a minced shallot and a couple of cloves of garlic to bump up the flavor. Other than that, I followed the recipe exactly as Ina had demonstrated it for Matt. Forty-five minutes later I pulled the pot from the oven and began stirring in the remaining ingredients. This is where skepticism slowly gave way to giddiness, because just as it had on the TV screen, with no magic involved, the unimpressive-looking rice really did pull together into a creamy, glossy and downright gorgeous pot of risotto. The texture of the rice was absolutely perfect too, exactly as it would have been if I'd spent the last half hour mindlessly ladling and stirring on the stove top. I wondered where this technique had been all my life. The full-blown giddiness (the kind that induces a little dance) came of course, with the first bite, because this was without a doubt, some of the most delicious risotto I’d ever tasted.

And just as Ina promised Matt, it was the "easiest risotto ever."

Easy Parmesan "Risotto"

(Recipe adapted from Ina Garten)

While not technically a classic Italian risotto, this sure is easy. I found the process for this recipe in a book by Donna Hay, the wonderful cookbook writer from Australia. I make it with my homemade chicken stock, lots of freshly grated Parmesan, and frozen peas. Risotto in the oven? You have to make this to believe it!

Serves 4 to 6

1 ½ cups Arborio rice
1 shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
5 cups simmering chicken stock, preferably homemade, divided
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
½ cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced
1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup frozen peas

Preheat the oven to 350º.

Place the rice and 4 cups of the chicken stock in a Dutch oven along with the shallots and garlic. Cover and bake for 45 minutes, until most of the liquid is absorbed and the rice is al dente. Remove from the oven, add the remaining cup of chicken stock, the Parmesan, wine, butter, salt and pepper, and stir vigorously for two to three minutes, until the rice is thick and creamy. Add the peas and stir until heated through. Serve hot.

The Christmas Cookie that Google Forgot

2010-12-09T21:49:00.000-08:00

I’m not a traditional person, per se. Or at least, I pride myself in railing against tradition in most areas of my life. I guess I’m more of a non-traditional traditionalist, if that makes sense. I don’t decorate for the holidays in red and green. Quite frankly, I think they clash. I don’t eat fruitcake or Yule logs. Ever. I’m far too disorganized to send out cutesy Christmas cards to everyone I know, so I don’t. Although I love getting them, so thanks everyone and keep ‘em coming! I don’t have any Christmas-y family heirlooms I drag out every year, but I’d give anything for that retro aluminum tree from the 60s that my Grandparents once had, the one with the groovy color wheel. Remember those?

That’s not to say I don’t have traditions that I look forward to, especially at holiday time. I do make it a point to watch “Nestor the Long Eared Christmas Donkey” every year. And every year I cry when his Mom dies (my apologies if I've ruined it for you). Sappy, I know. I’d rather listen to Frank, Dean and Ella sing the classics than hear Justin Bieber’s version of Winter Wonderland. And really, wouldn’t you too?? But my favorite, it-just-wouldn’t-be-Christmas-without-it tradition is baking up several batches of a particular cookie I’ve been eating as long as I can remember...

The Swedish Cookie.

It’s my absolute, hands-down favorite holiday cookie and I look forward to the tradition of making them every year because it signifies the real start of the Christmas season for me. No matter where I’ve lived or how busy my life has been, even in the lean years when I couldn’t afford to decorate for Christmas, I always found a way to bake these cookies, because they feel like home.

Now, I must confess that I have no idea if these cookies are actually Swedish. I have no idea why they’re called Swedish cookies. I’ve Googled, I’ve searched, I’ve asked around. No one seems to know. And really, if Google doesn’t know, who does?! Evidently, even my choice of Christmas cookie is non-traditional traditionalist. Or, something like that. I’ve never given these cookies to anyone outside my family, who’s ever had them before. I’ve never seen them anywhere else and they don’t sell them at Ikea. My Grandma made them, my Mom made them, all of my Aunts made them, I just always remember them being there, but no one can remember exactly where these cookies came from - though my Aunt Harriett credits my Aunt Mona with finding the recipe somewhere.

What I do know for sure is these cookies are special. They’ve always wielded some brilliant power over me and everyone I share them with, which is interesting, because they’re quite humble at first glance. They don’t contain any fancy extracts or exotic, rare ingredients. Certainly nothing that screams “Swedish!” In fact they’re made simply from butter, cream cheese, flour, sugar, egg whites and walnuts. You could easily overlook them on a plate at a holiday party and dismiss them as not that interesting. Perhaps even a bit boring. But that’s where you’d be wrong. True, they’re not as glamorous-looking as those fancy cut-out, frosted confections all sprinkled and dragéed. They may not be formed into the shape of a reindeer or a snowman, but those meager ingredients come together magically into a cookie that is bigger than the sum of its parts and when you taste them, well, that’s where the real magic happens. They’re crispy and buttery and nutty and have just the right amount of crumble. The filling gets crackly and the pastry is flaky. They’re delectable, and dare I say, almost transcendent.

Nowadays, one of my favorite holiday traditions has become introducing these magnificent gems to new friends each year. I admit that secretly I hope they’ll love the cookies as much as I do, and perhaps, they’ll become a tradition for them as well. That, and I figure the more people who know about the humble Swedish Cookie, the better the chances of finding it on Google next year.

Swedish Cookies

FOR THE DOUGH
1 pound unsalted butter, room temperature
1 pound cream cheese, room temperature
4 cups all-purpose flour
Confectioners’ sugar for dusting the board

FOR THE FILLING
3 large egg whites, lightly beaten
3 cups sugar
3 cups walnuts, finely chopped

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

For the dough, cream together the butter and cream cheese in the bowl of a free-standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Slowly add the flour, a little at a time and mix on low speed until incorporated and just starting to come together. Turn dough out onto a board dusted with confectioners’ sugar and knead a few times, forming into a ball. Divide the dough into four equal parts, flatten into disks and wrap in plastic wrap. Place in the refrigerator to chill for 1 hour.

While the dough is chilling, set to work on the filling. Whip the egg whites until foamy and able to hold a soft peak. Gently fold in the sugar and the walnuts. The mixture will be thick and dense.

Generously dust a board with confectioners’ sugar. Roll dough into a thin rectangle. I say thin, but not obnoxiously thin. It should be roughly under a quarter of an inch. After all, you are making cookies, not crepes. Using a sharp knife, cut the dough into approximately 2 1/2 inch squares. I do this freehand. In other words, don’t worry about making them perfect. Place a teaspoon sized dollop of the filling in the center of each square and pinch the two opposite corners together. The scraps of dough can be gathered up, chilled and re-rolled. Transfer the cookies to a parchment lined sheet pan and bake for 15 to 20 minutes until golden brown and crisp

Note: The dough is very soft, so work quickly. I’ve found that chilling the cookies on the cookie sheet for about 10 minutes before baking will help keep the corners together.

Old-Fashioned Peanut Brittle the Easy Way!

2010-12-08T12:26:00.000-08:00

There are all kinds of methods and theories for making perfect peanut brittle. There are those who insist you cannot make it without a candy thermometer. Some swear by the back of spoon trick, or the water test. Frankly, I find them all daunting and off-putting, even a bit scary. I need things to be easy, so I have always been happy to leave the candy-making to other people. My Aunt Harriett has been making the most delicious peanut brittle during the holidays for as long as I can remember. I just assumed she dragged out all of the same accoutrements everyone else did and stood by nervously staring at a candy thermometer trying to gauge the right temperature. “Not true,” she told me rather matter-of-factly one year. “Grandma never used a candy thermometer to make peanut brittle, so I’ve never used one. I go by the color. Light golden brown is the key.” She also told me she throws the peanuts in at the beginning because “it’s just easier.” Her words were a revelation and just like that, I’ve been undaunted ever since.

Old-Fashioned Peanut Brittle

Yields about 2 pounds

3 cups sugar
3 cups salted, dry roasted peanuts
1 cup Karo syrup
½ cup water
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus more for buttering pan
1 teaspoon baking soda

Butter the bottom of a large sheet pan; set aside.

Combine peanuts, sugar, corn syrup and water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil, stirring constantly, until the mixture is the color of light brown sugar, about 5 minutes. Resist the temptation to push the browning past the point of “light golden brown,” as Aunt Harriett says, or it will undoubtedly take on the taste of burnt sugar, undoubtedly landing you somewhere on the other side of good. Remove saucepan from heat, and stir in the butter and baking soda; stir quickly as the mixture will begin to foam up. Pour onto the prepared sheet pan. Use a wooden spoon to stretch the brittle as thinly as possible over the sheet pan. Allow the brittle to cool completely, about 45 minutes, then break into bite-size shards. Brittle can be stored in an air-tight container for up to 2 weeks.

“Where’s the BFF?” Beef.org & Sutter Home Gift Basket Giveaway

2010-10-07T22:22:00.000-07:00

“Where’s the BFF?” Okay, I admit it’s a bit of a stretch harkening back to that famous Wendy’s commercial from the early 80s, but you’ll forgive the reach when you hear what I have to offer you. Tailgating season is here and I've teamed up with Sutter Home Winery and Beef.org - you know, the people behind the “Beef. It’s What’s For Dinner” campaign - to bring you an exciting way to kick-start the tailgating season with party tips, easy beef grilling recipes and an awesome giveaway!

Forking Delicious Blog will be giving away two tailgating gift baskets, each valued at $190 and jam-packed with swag and entertaining inspiration for the football season.

Each tailgating gift basket includes a cutting board set with knife, fork, bottle closure and corkscrew, dish towels, olive oil, vinegar, dipping sauce, garlic Parmesan sauce, an assortment of salt and pepper, as well as an “I Heart Beef” apron, bumper sticker, pin and a Healthy Beef Cookbook.

Now, here’s the fun part and where your BFFs come in: To enter the contest and be eligible to win a kick-ass tailgating gift basket, all you have to do is get your BFFs to “Like” the Chef David Lawrence Facebook page. Each time your BFFs “Like” the page, tell them to leave a wall post letting me know they joined, who sent them and why Beef is What’s For Dinner in their house. The two people who refer the most BFFs win! It’s that easy. The contest will run for two weeks, starting today and ending Friday, October 22nd at midnight, EST. The winners will be announced here and on Facebook on Saturday, October 23rd.

So, Where’s Your BFF? Spread the word. Tell your friends. Tell your neighbors. Tell your BFF’s BFF! And tell your BFFs that Beef is What's For Dinner! Post the contest on your own Facebook and Twitter pages, your blogs, etc. The more people you refer, the better your chances of winning.

Happy Tailgating!

Endless Summer – One Last Hurrah

2010-09-05T11:40:00.000-07:00

There is a moment every September when I look up and realize that summer is officially over. That’s precisely the moment that I find myself scrambling to hold on to my favorite time of year before the balmy evenings give way to crisp and eventually chilly nights that force me inside for the winter. Don’t get me wrong, I love a hearty, comforting meal inside by the fire, but what I really love is standing over the fire, grilling dinner for myself and friends.

Some sand from the hardware store and a bit of creativity turn my table into a night at the beach.

It’s my need for the proverbial “endless summer” and the realization that I didn’t make it to the beach even once this year that inspired this last hurrah. I figured that if I couldn’t find the time to make it to the beach, I’d bring the beach to my own backyard with a decidedly summery menu and a beach-inspired table design.

Grilled Asian Skirt Steak

This recipe plays on my love of cinnamon paired with red meat. It adds a subtle background note that mingles nicely with the ginger, garlic and sherry in the marinade. I like to marinate this steak as long as possible, but I’ve also made it when it’s only had an hour in the marinade and it was delicious. So, foresight recommended, but not required.

Serves 4

FOR THE MARINADE
1 six-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
4 large cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
4 teaspoons dark-brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
6 cinnamon sticks
½ cup good dry sherry
6 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE STEAK
2 small skirt steaks (about 1 pound each)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped, for garnish

In a medium bowl combine the sliced ginger, garlic, brown sugar, ground cinnamon, cinnamon sticks, dry sherry and soy sauce. Whisk in the olive oil and pour marinade over the flank steak in a heavy gallon sized Ziplock bag, which in my opinion is the easiest and best way to marinate meat. Marinate for at least 30 minutes at room temperature, or even better for several hours in the refrigerator. The longer the meat swims in the marinade the more flavorful it will be.

Preheat the grill to high.

Remove the flank steak from the marinade and brush off any slices of garlic and ginger, as they’ll just burn and char on the grill. Place the meat on a layer of several paper towels and blot off as much of the liquid as possible. This is an important step because if the meat is too wet it won’t sear, it will steam which is the surest way I know of to end up with gray steak! Season both sides generously with salt and pepper.

Grill the steak without moving it around or poking it so it has a chance to sear and get those beautiful grill marks, about 4 minutes per side for medium rare. Transfer steak to a cutting board and allow it to rest loosely tented under aluminum foil for at least 5 minutes before slicing into thin strips and scattering with a shower of chopped cilantro for garnish.

Herb Marinated Grilled Shrimp

Patience may be a virtue, but not when it comes to my dinner. I tend to favor bold flavors I can get on the table quickly. These shrimp never disappoint.

Serves 4

2 cups of fresh herbs, such as basil, parsley, thyme, oregano, etc.
4 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
3/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper, to taste
12 jumbo shrimp, about 1½ pounds

Combine chopped herbs, garlic and olive oil in a medium bowl or gallon size Ziplock bag, which in my opinion is the easiest and best way to marinate anything. Season with salt and pepper and add shrimp. Shake the bag to evenly coat shrimp. Place in the refrigerator and marinate for 45 minutes to an hour.

Preheat the grill to medium-high.

Remove shrimp from marinade and shake off the excess oil. Grill the shrimp, turning once, just until they curl in on themselves and turn an opaque pink color and are firm to the touch. Serve immediately.

Note: This recipe can also be done in a 400 degree oven. Depending on the size of the shrimp, 10 to 12 minutes should be about all they need.

Mango Salsa

The fresh flavors of this salsa pair beautifully with both the shrimp and the skirt steak.

Serves 4

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1½ cups diced red onion
2 teaspoons peeled, minced fresh ginger
1½ teaspoons minced garlic
2 ripe mangos, peeled, seeded, and small diced
1/3 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 teaspoons light brown sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and diced
2 teaspoons fresh mint leaves, chopped

Saute the olive oil, onions, and ginger in a large saute pan over medium-low heat for 10 minutes, or until the onions are translucent. Add the garlic and cook for 1 more minute. Add the mangos, reduce the heat to low and cook for 10 more minutes. Add the orange juice, brown sugar, salt, black pepper, and jalapeno; cook for 10 more minutes, until orange juice is reduced, stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and add the mint. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

(Recipe adapted from Ina Garten.)

Getting a Jump on Fig Season

2010-08-07T12:21:00.000-07:00

I came to appreciate figs relatively late in life. To be honest, I didn’t even know what a fresh fig looked like until my mid twenties, and up until then I'm afraid my only exposure to them came in the form of a Newton. I have definitely made up for lost time because I’m obsessed with them now. They're sweet, delicious, sexy and fleeting. So if you spot them in the market, definitely take advantage of their short season. I love the simplicity of this recipe and they can be served as a starter or as an elegant finish to any meal.

Figs with Goat Cheese & Port Syrup

Makes 8

1 cup ruby port
6 tablespoons honey
6 ounces soft goat cheese (Montrachet)
8 ripe figs
½ cup toasted* walnuts, chopped
2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, lightly chopped, for garnish

In a small saucepan, over medium-high heat, bring the port and honey up to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer slowly until reduced by half. Set aside and cool to room temperature, the syrup will thicken considerably upon standing.

Cut the goat cheese into 8 equal pieces, about 2 teaspoons each, and roll each piece into a ball. Place the figs upright on a cutting board and carefully make four cross cuts, slicing each fig into eight sections, being careful not to go all the way through the bottom. Gently separate the figs outward to form a “flower.” Place a ball of goat cheese in the center of each fig and drizzle with the port syrup. Garnish with the walnuts and chopped parsley.

* Place walnuts in a dry sauté pan and push them around over medium heat until they deepen in color and their nutty aroma wafts up under your nose. Once they begin to toast, they go quickly so whatever you do, don’t abandon them. They go from perfectly toasted to “toast” in a matter of seconds.

John's Coffee Steak

2010-08-05T13:49:00.000-07:00

I first heard the idea of coating a big juicy piece of steak with coffee from my friend John. It seemed strange, to say the least, and I must admit, I wasn’t at all sold on the idea. Then I read an article in the newspaper about a restaurant in Seattle that featured something similar and it was all the rage. So reluctantly, I decided to experiment and give it a try. It took a few attempts to get just the right balance of coffee along with the sweet, salty and spicy. My first incarnations were entirely too peppery, leaving my lips numb for hours, like a bee-stung-lipped-model during fashion week! Not a great look for me. But with a few tweaks I finally found the right balance of flavor. The coffee rub forms a beautiful, seared, almost black crust on the outside, and as you cut into the steak it gives way to the tender pink meat inside. One bite and I was hooked! Take my word, however odd coffee on steak may sound, it’s a killer combination.

Thanks, John!

Serves 4

FOR THE COFFEE RUB
½ cup coarse ground coffee beans, dark roast
¼ cup Kosher salt
¼ cup coarse ground black pepper
¼ cup dark brown sugar

FOR THE STEAKS
2 tablespoons canola oil
4 (8 ounce) New York or Rib Eye steaks

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

To make the dry rub, place the coffee, salt, pepper and brown sugar in a small bowl and toss gently with a fork to combine. Any leftover rub can be stored in the freezer for another time.

Heat the canola oil in a large heavy oven-proof skillet (preferably cast-iron) over high heat until almost to the smoking point. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and generously and evenly coat all sides with the coffee rub. Sear well to form a good crust, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Don’t panic if the steaks look a little charred, that’s what you’re going for and will ensure lots of flavor.

Transfer the skillet to the hot oven and cook for 5 to 7 minutes for medium rare, or until desired doneness. Let the meat rest, tented under foil for 5 to 10 minutes before devouring.

Chip's Fresh Citrus Margaritas

2010-08-04T13:23:00.000-07:00

You know you’ve got a true friend when they’ll stand at the counter, practically developing a case of carpal tunnel, squeezing dozens of limes, lemons and oranges for what seems like hours to make fresh citrus margaritas for a party. That’s exactly what my friend Chip did at a summer gathering I had a while back. He made the mistake of telling me about these delicious, fresh margaritas he first had at the bar of the Fairmont Hotel in San Jose, California, after a long, hot day on the golf course. The bartender bragged that he made the best fresh citrus margaritas, and now, so did Chip. Of course, I had to try these legendary margaritas and a party seemed like the perfect occasion. Well, needless to say, the margaritas lived up to their legend and they were a huge hit. Every time Chip finished making one, an empty glass would be shoved in his direction, ready for a refill. He stood there like a trooper, squeezing and shaking those drinks until the mountain of citrus was gone. When I told him I wanted to include the drink in this blog he looked slightly befuddled. “But it’s not really my recipe,” he said. I disagree. Anyone who will stand there for that long squeezing all that citrus has earned the right to lay claim to the recipe. So, for your enjoyment, by way of the Fairmont Hotel, here are Chip’s Fresh Citrus Margaritas. Oh, and just so you know, the next time he got roped into making these for a party, he came armed with an electric juicer.

Serves 1

Juice of 2 limes
Juice of 1 lemon
Juice of ½ an orange
2 ounces premium silver tequila
2 ounces Cointreau or Triple Sec
1 ounce simple syrup, or to taste depending on sweetness of the fruit
Kosher salt, for rimming glass
Lime wedge, for garnish

Rub the outside rim of a glass with a cut lime and dip lightly into a plate of kosher salt.

Combine the lime juice, lemon juice, orange juice, Tequila, Triple Sec and simple syrup in a cocktail shaker. Tumble in a handful of ice and shake until icy cold. Serve on the rocks, garnished with a lime wedge.

A Plum Idea

2010-06-16T19:30:00.000-07:00

Whenever my friends attend parties I can hardly wait to corner them and find out all about the food that was served. Forget the guest list or the locale. I want to know about the food! If I can’t sample it myself I can always live vicariously, right? A good friend of mine recently attended a very chic wedding in Malibu and couldn’t wait to tell me all about these perfect little bites. Grilled plum with a bit of creamy Gorgonzola slightly melted on top, wrapped up in buttery prosciutto and fastened together with a sprig of rosemary. An elegant, easy starter. Done and DONE!

Prosciutto Wrapped Grilled Plums with
Gorgonzola & Rosemary

Serves 8

2 purple or black plums, pitted and sliced into eights

Extra virgin olive oil, for brushing plums

8 teaspoons Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled or sliced

8 slices prosciutto

16 small sprigs of fresh rosemary

Preheat a grill pan or outdoor grill over high heat.

Lightly brush the plum slices with the olive oil and place on the hot grill. Turn once to get grill marks on each cut side of the fruit. Remove and cool slightly. Place about 1/2 teaspoon of Gorgonzola on each slice of plum. Cut each slice of prosciutto in half lengthwise. Wrap the prosciutto around each plum slice and skewer with a sprig of rosemary to secure.

Just for the Grill of It! Adding Sizzle to Your Summer Meals

2010-05-20T12:17:00.000-07:00

There is a time of year in Los Angeles (a city not exactly known for its change of seasons) when the mildly warm days of spring give way to the blistering hot days of summer. The days get longer, the whirring sound of central air-conditioners everywhere become a constant hum and the first scent of a neighbor’s grill wafts through the window, signaling the start of grilling season. It’s my favorite time of year! Though admittedly, I don’t limit my love or consumption of grilled food strictly to the summer months. I have long had a sturdy, well-seasoned cast iron grill pan in my kitchen that I use with unapologetic regularity, rain or shine. Sometimes, it’s just more comfortable to grill inside, in the 65° comfort of my own central air-conditioned kitchen, than to be outside sweating over a grill in the heat. The following recipe for Salt Steak however, must be cooked on an outdoor grill, but that’s part of the fun.

Glancing over the recipe, you may find it odd, even alarming that I’ve instructed you to use 1½ cups of kosher salt (no, I haven’t lost it completely and it’s not a typo). It is called Salt Steak after all. This method of grilling the meat, on a bed of coarse salt placed directly on the paper towels, the whole thing over the flame, doesn’t make the meat taste too salty. Instead, it keeps the meat incredibly tender and seasons it perfectly. This method is loosely based on a cooking technique used in both Italy and France for cooking chicken and whole fish encased in salt.

This recipe calls for London Broil, which is inexpensive, feeds an army and goes on sale all summer long. Interestingly, London Broil is a cooking method, NOT a cut of meat. Contrary to its name, it's virtually unknown in London, England. It can be flank steak, but is usually top round roast. If you’ve never dealt with London Broil before, it’s important to remember a few things: for really tender meat, it needs to be cooked to medium-rare, sliced thin on a 45° angle, and always, always cut across the grain.

Happy Grilling!

Salt Steak

I have a weakness for big juicy slabs of red meat, all beautifully seared and crusty on the outside, yet tender and pink on the inside. The following is my idea of red meat perfection and was one of my favorite summer meals as a kid. It still is! The combination of the thin slices of London Broil, cooked medium-rare and laid over garlic butter-soaked bread is mouthwatering. Paired simply with grilled corn on the cob and mushrooms sautéed in garlic, butter and thyme and you have a fantastic and memorable meal.

Serves 6 to 8

2 to 2½ pounds London Broil
1½ cups kosher salt, for grilling
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
2½ sticks unsalted butter, melted
3 cloves garlic, minced, or to taste
¼ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 loaf sliced French bread (sandwich-style)

Preheat outdoor grill to high heat.

On a plate, layer 3 white paper towels, one on top of the other, and place the London broil on top of them. Allow the meat to sit for several minutes so the juices soak the towels, leaving behind an impression of the meat. Remove the meat and fill the impression with an even layer of salt, about ½ inch thick. Season the meat generously with plenty of freshly-cracked pepper on both sides and place it on the salt.

Lay the whole thing on the grill and - stick with me here - don’t be alarmed when the dry edges of the paper towel catch fire and burn up almost immediately; the soaked portion of towel will be fine. Grill the meat for about 10 to 12 minutes per side turning it once back onto the paper towel. For medium rare, it’s done when an instant read thermometer registers 130° to 135°. Transfer the meat to a cutting board, tent it loosely with foil and allow it to rest for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, melt the butter with the garlic and allow the flavors to infuse for a few minutes. Pour the butter into a shallow dish and stir in the chopped parsley.

To serve, slice the London Broil diagonally across the grain into thin strips. Quickly dip one side of the bread into the melted garlic butter and place butter side up on the plate. Lay several slices of meat over the bread and dig in greedily.

The Best Chocolate Cream Pie I Ever Ate

2010-03-11T21:25:00.000-08:00

"You always had it, Dorothy." It's my favorite moment in the Wizard of Oz when Glinda the Good Witch gives a gentle reminder of what should have been obvious all along. By "it" of course, she is referring to the power to return home, an answer Dorothy spent the entire film searching for. I've always believed she missed it because she was expecting something bigger, something that would hit her over the head, rather than quietly whisper in her ear. It's true that sometimes exactly what we're looking for has been right there all along and it doesn't always hit us over the head.

I got that reminder recently when I was searching high and low for the perfect dessert to serve at a dinner party. I'd been pouring over my favorite cookbooks and websites. For me, it's not really a dinner party without something sweet and homemade to cap off the evening. I was looking for something homey and familiar, not overly fussy, but impressive and delicious enough to make my guests think I'd spent all day preparing it. I wanted them licking their forks and groaning in pleasure with that look that says: "I really want another piece even though I'm stuffed." I live for that look on people's faces.

The answer came in the form of chocolate cream pie. Not just any chocolate cream pie, but the best chocolate cream pie I ever ate, according to my friend Beth. It was a very exuberant endorsement. "You have to make this pie, Dave. You HAVE to. You. Will. Die!" she exclaimed, in a giddy and overly-punctuated tone that drove her point home with laser-like precision. She explained that she'd just made a mile-high cream pie that appeared in the latest issue of Saveur magazine and it was so delicious, so over-the-top, she had to give most of it away because she couldn't stop eating it. I pictured a goldfish that just keeps eating until it explodes. "I don't know Beth...," I hesitated, as images of Jell-O Instant Pudding pushed their way into my head, "I have that magazine and I saw that pie and it looked pretty good, but I need something AH-mazing." The truth was I get so many food magazines every month I sometimes do little more than scan them walking back from the mailbox. I really had seen the recipe; it just didn't seem exciting enough to make me stop on the page. Beth wasn't having it. "You don't understand!" she replied breathlessly. "This pie is beyond amazing, it's RI-diculous! It starts with 9 egg yolks and almost a pound of chocolate! It's sooo good!" She had me at 9 egg yolks. That was all the convincing I needed.

On the way home I stopped by the market and picked up the ingredients I needed to make this Holy Grail of chocolate pies. Standing in the checkout line I flipped through a copy of Saveur, found the recipe and took the time to actually read it. I was immediately hypnotized by the drool-worthy picture of the pie in the magazine and the geniusness of its back-to-basics simplicity. As I read further it became clear this was no ordinary chocolate cream pie. I bought that copy just in case I couldn't find my original at home.

As I made the custard and piled it high into the chocolate shell to chill, I was of course licking the wooden spoon and scraping at the bowl to get every last bit of custard. It was heavenly. It was so dense with rich chocolate flavor and so creamy (undoubtedly from the 9 egg yolks) that I briefly considered skipping dinner all together and going straight to dessert. Needless to say the pie was a huge success at the dinner party. After the first bite, silence fell over the table. After the second bite, one of my guests spoke almost reverently, "OMG! This is the best chocolate cream pie I've ever eaten. This is really good!" I replayed the story of how I wasn't so easily swayed when Beth tried to convince me to make it for dessert. "It just seemed so ordinary," I confessed. Secretly I was a bit embarrassed that I gave her such a hard time. Licking their forks and groaning in pleasure my guests exclaimed, "Are you crazy?! This pie isn't ordinary, it's orgasmic! You HAVE to share this recipe!" Orgasmic indeed.

Turns out the perfect dessert was right there under my nose, it was just buried in a large stack with all my other food magazines and unless that stack toppled over on me, it wasn't about to hit me over the head.

Like Dorothy I just needed a gentle reminder that I'd always had it.

The Best Chocolate Cream Pie I Ever Ate

The title alone should tell you everything you need to know on this one. A crunchy crust and pudding-like filling make this pie a standout. This pie should be well chilled before it’s served.

Serves 8 to 12

16 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½ -inch cubes and chilled, plus more for pie plate
¼ cup packed dark brown sugar
1 (9 ounce) package Nabisco chocolate wafers, finely ground
3 ½ cups half and half
2⁄3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar, divided
¼ cup cornstarch
9 egg yolks
9 ounces good quality semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 ounces good quality unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
2 ½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 cups heavy cream
Good quality dark chocolate, shaved, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Grease bottom and sides of a 9-inch glass pie plate with butter; set aside. Heat 8 tablespoons butter and brown sugar in a 1-quart saucepan until sugar dissolves. Transfer butter mixture to a medium bowl; stir in ground wafers. Transfer mixture to pie plate; press into bottom and sides, using the bottom of a measuring cup to compress crust. Refrigerate for 20 minutes. Bake until set, about 15 minutes; let cool.

Heat half and half in a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat until it just begins to simmer; remove pan from heat. In a large bowl, whisk together 2⁄3 cup sugar and cornstarch; add egg yolks and whisk until smooth. Drizzle half-and-half into egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly, until smooth. Return mixture to saucepan; heat over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until bubbles rise to the surface and mixture is very thick, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove pan from heat and add remaining butter and chocolates in small batches, whisking until smooth; stir in 1½ teaspoons vanilla. Set a sieve over a medium bowl and strain chocolate mixture. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing plastic onto surface to prevent skin from forming; refrigerate until set, about 4 hours.

Remove plastic wrap from chocolate filling and, using a rubber spatula, stir mixture until smooth. Spoon mixture into reserved crust, forming a dome, and smooth surface with the spatula. In a large bowl, whisk remaining 2 tablespoons sugar, remaining vanilla, and heavy cream until stiff peaks form; spread on top of filling, forming a dome. Using a vegetable peeler, shave some of the dark chocolate onto top of pie. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve.

Flourless Chocolate Cake with Orange-Scented Whipped Cream

2010-03-04T01:00:00.001-08:00

This cake is something between a soufflé and a dense chocolate brownie. It's incredibly light and cloud-like. Light in texture mind you, NOT light in calories. In spite of that fact, I've always felt that if you're going to indulge in dessert it should be one that falls somewhere between nirvana and heaven and this cake certainly doesn't disappoint. If indeed there is a heaven, and if I make it there, I want to eat this cake every single day.

Enough said.

Flourless Chocolate Cake with Orange-Scented Whipped Cream

Serves 8 to 10

FOR THE CAKE
12 ounces good quality bittersweet chocolate
12 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 large eggs, separated
12 tablespoons sugar, divided
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 tablespoons sugar, or to taste
Zest of an orange, grated
1 large marshmallow, to stabilize* cream

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Line the bottom a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper and set aside. Meanwhile, melt the chocolate and the butter in a double boiler, or even better, in the microwave for about 2 minutes on medium power. Stir until smooth and set aside to cool.

In a medium bowl, beat the egg yolks with 6 tablespoons of the sugar until the mixture is pale yellow and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add vanilla, fold in the melted chocolate and set aside.

Meanwhile, beat the egg whites in another medium bowl until soft peaks form. Gradually add the remaining 6 tablespoons of sugar and beat until medium-firm peaks form. Lighten the chocolate mixture by folding in a third of the eggs whites, then fold the remainder gently into the chocolate mixture, being careful to just incorporate, but not overwork the batter. A few white streaks are okay. Pour into prepared springform pan and bake in the center of the oven for 40 to 50 minutes, until the top is puffed and cracked and a tester inserted in the middle comes out with moist crumbs attached. Cool the pan completely on a wire rack, don’t be alarmed when the center sinks in and forms a crater. To release, run a small sharp knife around the the edge of the cake and release the sides of the pan.

To make the orange scented whipped cream, whip the cream and vanilla until soft peaks form. Add the sugar, orange zest and the marshmallow to stabilize. Dollop the cream in the center of the cake and serve in large slices. Pure chocolate bliss!

*To “stabilize” whipped cream, beat as usual and whip in one large marshmallow that has been softened for about 10 seconds in the microwave.

Outrageous Macaroni & Cheese - Aspen Style!

2010-02-25T19:08:00.002-08:00

Macaroni and cheese is like pizza. Even when it's not that great, it's still pretty good. But when it's really good, it can be on another level!

My early introduction to macaroni and cheese was humble at best. Like most people, I grew up with the boxed variety that still stocks many a pantry. I honestly didn't know that you could get it any other way. While my Mom made many things from scratch, including bread and cakes, homemade macaroni and cheese just wasn't in her culinary lexicon and I was fine with that. As a kid I hadn't yet learned to appreciate the beauty of quality ingredients made into something from scratch and I certainly wanted nothing to do with macaroni and cheese of the homemade sort. It had to be psychedelic orange powder or nothing! Admittedly in my teen years I experimented with that NASA-like vacuum pack of "cheese sauce" that you squeezed over shell-shaped pasta (don't act like you don't know what I'm talking about!) and it was of great debate between my sister Adrienne and me which was actually the "best" brand of macaroni and cheese. She swore by the NASA-like squeeze packet and I held on stubbornly to the neon Cheeto powder of my childhood. Even at 14-years old I was slightly creeped out by a packet of "cheese sauce" that needed no refrigeration and could undoubtedly outlive me. The expiration date was printed right there on the shiny foil packet and this was at a time when I was still grappling with the incomprehensible idea of partying like it was 1999!

Fast forward to a few years ago on my first visit to Aspen Colorado. I was at Jimmy's Restaurant for the second time that trip and stumbled upon the "Jimmy Mac" on the bar menu. This wasn't just any old macaroni and cheese. This macaroni and cheese had the genius addition of bacon and jalapeño. That was all I needed to read. For me the math is simple: Bacon + Cheese = NIRVANA. I was IN! Needless to say this was some of the best macaroni and cheese I'd ever had the pleasure of eating. Eating? Who am I kidding? More like bowl-licking devouring! It was piping hot, served in a generously sized gratin dish with beautifully browned melted cheese on top and studded with salty bits of crispy bacon and green flecks of jalapeño for kick. The menu lists this delicacy under the category of "Sides to Share." Let me tell you, there wasn't much sharing going on. In fact, I think we ordered more for the table! I literally dreamed about Jimmy Mac that night and returned to Jimmy's a few more times to greedily consume more before my trip was over.

Jimmy shares several of his famous recipes on his restaurant site, including the Jimmy Mac. Before I knew that though, I spent a great deal of time in the kitchen creating my homage to his culinary revelation and I think I've come pretty close. In fact, I think Jimmy would be proud. In a recent Facebook exchange he humbly referred to the Jimmy Mac as a "Reese's Peanut Butter Cup accident that just happened to hit a perfect combo." Perfect indeed, Jimmy.

In fact, it's on another level!

Outrageous Macaroni & Cheese with Bacon & Jalapeno
(My Take on "Jimmy Mac")

Serves 8 to 10

1 pound large elbow macaroni
1 quart whole milk
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups Gruyere, grated
2 cups extra-sharp aged Cheddar, grated
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 1/2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and diced
1 pound bacon, cooked and crumbled
Panko Bread Crumbs, for topping

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Drizzle oil into a large pot of boiling salted water. Add the macaroni and cook according to package directions. Drain well.

Meanwhile, heat the milk in a small saucepan, being careful not to boil it. Melt the butter in a large (4-quart) pot and add the flour. Whisk over low heat for 2 minutes, stirring constantly to cook out the raw flour taste. While whisking, add the hot milk and bring to a boil, cooking until thickened and smooth. Off the heat, add the Gruyere, cheddar, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir in the jalapeño and bacon and fold in the cooked macaroni. Pour into a 3-quart baking dish. Top with panko bread crumbs. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the sauce is bubbly and the macaroni is evenly browned on the top.

Baja-Style Fried Fish Tacos

2010-02-20T11:08:00.000-08:00

It's threatening to rain again, and weirdly I'm not craving slow cooked stews, or big bowls of chili. All I can think of is summer food, namely Baja-style fried fish tacos. If you've never had a fish taco the way they make them in Baja you don't know what you're missing.

Okay, admittedly I’ve never been to Baja. But taco stands that serve Baja style fish tacos are a staple in Southern California these days. I swear you can almost imagine yourself standing on the beach in San Felipe when you eat these. Served with an icy cold Mexican beer, there is nothing better.

Serves 4

FOR THE FISH

1 cup pale beer
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste Vegetable oil, for frying
1 pound boned, skinned white fish (cod, catfish, halibut)
24 warm corn tortillas
1/2 head shredded cabbage
Lime wedges

FOR THE CHIPOTLE SAUCE
½ cup good mayonnaise
2 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1/4 teaspoon chipotle powder, or to taste

FOR THE PICO DE GALLO
3 ripe plum tomatoes, seeded, finely chopped
1/4 cup small white onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves, chopped
1 jalapeño, seeded, finely chopped
Juice of 2 limes
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

In a bowl, whisk together flour, salt and cayenne pepper. Whisk in the beer, blending well, making sure there are no lumps. Batter should be the consistency of thick pancake batter. Rinse fish and pat dry. Cut into 2-inch pieces.

Heat a large, heavy bottomed frying pan or Dutch oven with enough vegetable oil to create a 1-inch depth. Heat the oil over high heat to 375 degrees on a deep fry thermometer. Dip fish pieces in beer batter and lift out, draining briefly. Gently slide coated fish into oil, a few pieces at a time. Adjust heat to maintain oil temperature. Fry until golden brown, about 2 minutes.

Remove fish to a paper towel-lined platter using a slotted spoon or Chinese strainer. Continue until all fish pieces have been fried. To assemble, stack two tortillas in your hand. Add a few pieces of fish, chipotle sauce, pico de gallo and top with shredded cabbage. Spritz with a squeeze of lime, fold in half and enjoy!

Valentine's Day 101: Heating It Up in the Kitchen! Guys, I'm Talking to You!

2010-02-02T18:04:00.001-08:00

Men who cook are like…the new trucker hat! Remember those? Only, they’re not as likely to go out of style any time soon. So fellas, if you’re the type that follows trends and the only thing you’re used to making for Valentine’s Day dinner is a reservation, pay close attention! I’m only going to say this once. There is nothing sexier than a man who cooks. Did you catch that? There’s no better aphrodisiac than a meal made with your own hands, in your own kitchen for your special someone, or even your sort-of-special-someone. It doesn’t matter if you think you can’t cook. I’ll get to that in a minute with a sort of cooking MapQuest. What you cook doesn’t have to be all fancy-pants and towered high on an oversized white plate with dribbles and dabs of esoteric sauce, garnished with white truffles imported from Italy that cost more than one month’s rent! Don’t be ridiculous. But if you want to score major points in the romance department, get yourself into the sexiest room in the house. No, not that one! The kitchen! You heard me. Now that you’re there, take a look around. You can do more in this room than take a swig from the milk jug or crack open a beer, you know. It’s here that you’ll find everything you need to create the perfect Valentine’s Day dinner.

It’s a well-known fact that no holiday strikes fear into the hearts of men like the one that falls on February 14th. It’s like a romantic landmine. It comes around every year, inevitably, like another birthday you’d like to forget, or tax day. The date seems to leer at you from the calendar, following you like the eyes of a creepy old painting.

Valentine’s Day seems to whip people into a panicked, frenzied search to find love (or at least lust) by the time the bell tolls. Last year, about this time, a female friend called me in a sheer panic. With the 14th fast approaching she was starting to exhibit the signs of delirious desperation. The kind I’d previously seen only in Survivor contestants after 39 days on the island! She was going on and on about not having someone “special” in her life and lamenting that she was going to die all alone. She’s 29. She started wailing on the other end of the line, “Why? Why am I single and everyone else has someone? Why?!” She sounded not unlike Nancy Kerrigan in that infamous knee whacking incident. Clearly this is why caller ID was invented. I think about breaking up with her for a minute and we’re not even dating.

Depending on where you are on the dating/relationship ladder, Valentine’s Day presents a certain conundrum. If you’ve been together for a year or more, you call each other boyfriend/girlfriend or you live together, it’s a no-brainer for you. Skip to the next paragraph. On the other hand, if you’ve only been dating for a few weeks or months, haven’t yet said “I love you,” or still aren’t quite sure how to refer to each other in public, you have to make the perilous decision of exactly what, or what not to do for this expectation filled holiday. Roses are good, albeit a little cliché. If you do opt for roses, do you send the red ones and risk scaring her, or the yellow ones and risk offending her? It’s too much pressure! The answer is simple. Cook her dinner at home! If you think about it, it’s perfect. No pressure to pick the right restaurant or jockeying for a good table. No valet or parking hassles. It’s original, it’s less expensive, it’s more personal, and even if you screw it up completely you’re still a hero because you made the effort. Everyone loves a man who cooks! Worst case scenario: you blow the whole thing, call for take out and crack open that great bottle of wine you were going to serve with dinner.

Now, back to that “but I can’t cook” thing you’ve been telling yourself for so long. Relax! I’m here to help you. If you fall into the majority of the XY-chromosome set, most of your meals probably come in take-out containers or are heated in a microwave. Not the best way to impress your date. There’s a saying: “If you know you’re going to get wet, you may as well go swimming.” Good advice and if you’re with me on this culinary journey so far, you’re gonna have to take the plunge. The first step is deciding on a menu. You’re in luck because I’ve done the work for you. I’m going to walk you through a meal that’s as simple to prepare as it is elegant to serve. It’s an updated riff on classic steak house fare. If your date has a moral issue with red meat, simply remind her of this axiom, “If God didn’t want you to eat animals, he wouldn’t have made them out of meat.” If that doesn’t work, dump her. The second step is making yourself a detailed list before you head off to the grocery store. That way you don’t get distracted and end up falling back on items that require a microwave as their primary cooking method. The third step is to get organized. Set the table in advance, don’t forget those well placed candles, and read the recipes all the way through before you start cooking to make sure you have everything you need. I know this whole cooking thing may be unfamiliar territory, but don’t let that deter you. If you follow this simple game plan and simple recipes, you’ll end up looking like a very sexy, very romantic, culinary rock star. Minus the trucker hat of course.

A SEXY VALENTINE’S DAY MENU FOR TWO

White Cosmopollitan

Warm Spinach Salad with Red Grapes & Pancetta

Pan Seared Filet Mignon with Blackberry Cabernet Sauce

Mashed Potatoes with Chives

Roasted Asparagus

No-Bake Chocolate Pot de Creme

1 day ahead: Make the Chocolate Pot de Crème and the Blackberry Cabernet Sauce. Clean and trim the asparagus.

2 hours ahead: Prep the ingredients for the spinach salad and have everything ready to go.

1 hour ahead: Make the mashed potatoes. Keep warm in a heat-proof bowl, covered with foil over a pot of gently simmering water. Open bottle of wine.

20 minutes before dinner: Start searing the steaks, drizzle the asparagus with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Start the music. Light the candles. Shake up 2 White Cosmos.

10 minutes before dinner: As the steaks are resting put the asparagus into the oven to roast. Gently reheat the Blackberry Cabernet sauce. Make the warm dressing for the salad.

The moment of truth: Draw the curtains, toast your special somebody and just remember, I told you so. Happy Valentine’s Day!

White Cosmopolitan

This is a fun twist on the Cosmopolitan, or “Cosmo” as the cool people call it. I use Rose’s Sweetened Lime juice in this recipe. If you prefer your drink less sweet and more tart, feel free to use the same amount of fresh

Serves 1

3 ounces good vodka
3 ounces white cranberry juice
1 1/2 ounces Rose’s Sweetened Lime Juice
1 1/2 ounces Triple Sec
Fresh raspberries, for garnish

Pour the vodka, cranberry juice, Rose’s lime and the Triple Sec into a cocktail shaker. Tumble in a handful of ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled martini glass and float a raspberry on top.

Warm Spinach Salad with Red Grapes & Pancetta

This salad, with its Italian pancetta, pine nuts and red grapes, is perfect for a romantic dinner. The only thing to remember here, and it’s not a big deal, the salad must be tossed with the dressing at the absolute last minute before serving. Having said that, the dressing only takes a few minutes and the ingredients can be prepped well in advance.

FOR THE DRESSING
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1/4 cup good extra virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper

FOR THE SALAD
1 pound baby spinach leaves, cleaned & drained
1/2 cup pancetta, cubed
1/4 cup raw pine nuts
1/2 cup red onion, thinly sliced
1 cup seedless red grapes, halved
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese shavings

Place the spinach in a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar and olive oil, season with salt and pepper. Meanwhile, cook the pancetta in a medium saute pan over medium heat until just starting to crisp. Remove the pancetta from the pan and drain on a paper towel. Don’t drain the fat from the pan! Add the pine nuts and cook for about 1 minute, until they begin to toast. Add the onion and the grapes to the pan, cook 1 minute more. Pour the dressing into the pan and bring to the boil for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat and pour over the spinach. Toss well, garnish with Parmesan cheese shavings.

Pan-Seared Filet Mignon with Blackberry Cabernet Sauce

There are those who would argue a good steak needs no adornment and I tend to agree. But, this sauce is sophisticated and unexpected. All I can say is, give it a try and you’ll see what I mean.

FOR THE STEAKS
4 (8ounce) filet mignon steaks
2 tablespoons good olive oil
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste

FOR THE SAUCE
2/3 cup beef stock
2/3 Cabernet Sauvignon
3 tablespoons seedless blackberry preserves
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
A handful of fresh blackberries, for garnish

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Pat the steaks dry with a paper towel and season generously with salt and pepper. In a heavy, ovenproof skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until almost smoking. Sear the steaks, on 1 side only, for 2 minutes until the meat begins to caramelize. Resist the urge to touch or poke at the meat so that caramelization actually has the chance to occur. You want your steaks to have that perfect contrast in texture, seared and crusty on one side, tender and juicy on the other. Without flipping the steak, transfer the pan to the oven and roast for about 7 minutes for medium rare (or when a meat thermometer registers 135 degrees.)

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine beef stock, Cabernet Sauvignon and blackberry preserves. Bring to the boil, reduce to a simmer and allow the mixture to reduce by half. The sauce is ready when it becomes slightly thick and syrupy and can coat the back of a spoon. Season with pepper, but taste before adding any salt because canned stocks and broths tend to be a bit salty. It’s always better to err on the side of caution.

When the steaks are done, remove from the oven and allow them to rest loosely tented under a piece of aluminum foil for about 5 minutes. To serve, drizzle the blackberry cabernet sauce over the steaks, scatter a few blackberries on the plate and unleash the carnivore within.

Mashed Potatoes with Chives

I know it seems weird to give a recipe for mashed potatoes but there are as many ways to make them as there are to peel them. Speaking of which, I don’t peel mine. Partly out of laziness, but mostly because I love the flavor and rustic texture the skins give. I mash these by hand with an old-fashioned potato masher, just like grandma used.

Serves 2

Kosher salt for potato water
4 large Yukon Gold potatoes
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup sour cream, or to taste
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
¼ cup chopped chives

Scrub the potatoes and cut into rough and tumble chunks. The idea is to cut everything roughly the same size so they cook at the same time. Place in a large stock pot or Dutch oven and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil and generously salt the water. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for about 20 to 25 minutes, or until fork tender. Drain the potatoes and tumble into a large bowl. Add butter, a generous scoop of sour cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Mash the potatoes to desired texture with a potato masher. Stir in the chives and adjust seasonings if necessary.

Roasted Asparagus

If you’ve never tried roasted vegetables here’s your chance. You’ll never want to eat them any other way.

Serves 2

1 bunch of asparagus
Good olive oil, for drizzling
Kosher salt & freshly cracked pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Wash asparagus and pat dry with paper towels. Trim the woody ends and place asparagus in a single layer on a baking sheet. Drizzle lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 8 to 10 minutes until crisp-tender. Serve immediately.

No-Bake Chocolate Pot de Creme

This dessert is as easy as instant pudding, but so much more sophisticated. The recipe makes enough for 4, technically. But then we’re treading dangerously close to “dainty portions” territory. I usually opt for elegant coffee cups, in which case you end up with two reasonably generous portions. I’ll leave it up to you.

Serves 2 (see above)

2/3 cup whole milk

1 egg

Pinch of kosher salt

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

4 ounces good quality semi-sweet chocolate
1/2 cup lightly sweetened whipped cream, for garnish
Fresh raspberries, for garnish

Heat milk in a small saucepan over medium heat until just below boiling. In a blender combine egg, salt, sugar, vanilla and chocolate until smooth. With the blender running, carefully pour in the hot milk and process until smooth. Pour the chocolate mixture into the serving cups, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours before serving. Top with whipped cream and garnish with a few raspberries before serving.

Souped Up!

2010-01-22T16:09:00.000-08:00

It’s raining in Los Angeles. This isn’t just a drizzle. Not just a sprinkle. Not even a cat or a dog! I’m talking a full week of non-stop monsoons nearing biblical proportions and it doesn’t seem to be stopping anytime soon.

Like many a SoCal resident I’m not physically or emotionally equipped to deal with “weather.” I’ll be the first to admit we’re spoiled here and maybe more than a little soft when the temperature dips below 65 degrees or more than a drop of water hits our windshields. Personally it makes me want to take refuge under my Slanket until it all goes away. And p.s., I’m not kidding. I really do have a Slanket!

There’s only one thing to do. Make soup! That’s right, if nature is going to hand me lemons in the form of rain, I’m going to make lemonade in the form of soup! I may not be equipped to deal with weather extremes, but I’m always equipped to whip up something warm and comforting in the kitchen. So until the rain decides to let up, you know where to find me…

Tom Kha Gai (Thai Chicken Coconut Soup)

I don’t know if this soup is authentically Thai, but I do know that it is exotically wonderful and deceptively easy to make. It has a kind of restorative, life affirming quality about it and definitely borrows from the Thai palate, perfectly infusing the flavors of coconut, chili, lime and lemongrass. It’s the kind of soup you can make mid-week when you’re stressed out, hating life and the weekend seems nowhere in sight. Think of it as a vacation for your taste buds.

Serves 4

1 quart chicken stock
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1 (2- inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
2 slices Galangal root*
3 Kaffir lime leaves**, torn
2 stalks lemongrass, white part only, sliced in half lengthwise
1 teaspoon sugar
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts
2 (13 ounce) cans coconut milk
1 to 2 teaspoons sambal oelek (Asian hot chili paste), or to taste
1 ½ tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla or nuoc nam)
½ teaspoon turmeric
1 medium carrot, peeled & shredded
8 ounces button mushrooms, halved
Freshly squeezed juice of 2 limes
4 scallions, thinly sliced on an angle
Fresh cilantro, chopped for garnish

Place the chicken stock, garlic, ginger, Galangal root, lime leaves, lemongrass and sugar in a large stock pot or Dutch oven and bring to the boil. Add the chicken breasts, reduce heat and simmer gently until chicken is just cooked through, about 12 minutes. Fish the chicken out of the pot and allow it to cool a bit on a cutting board.

Meanwhile, remove the Galangal root, lemon grass, garlic and lime leaves from the broth and discard. Stir in the coconut milk, sambal, fish sauce, turmeric, carrots, mushrooms, and lime juice. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, cut it into rough and tumble chunks or shred it with your fingers and add it back to the pot. Heat the soup through gently to soften the carrots but don’t bring back to the boil. Add the scallions and ladle into individual bowls and garnish with chopped cilantro.

*Galangal root can be found in Asian markets in most cities. If you can’t find it, feel free to omit it from the recipe.

**Kaffir lime leaves can also be found in Asian markets. If you can’t find it substitute the zest of a lime instead. I buy extra when I’m at the Asian market and store them in a ziplock bag in my freezer. They keep for months!

Holiday Eggnog Cheesecake

2009-12-08T12:19:00.000-08:00

It's Eggnog. It's cheesecake. It's perfect for the holidays. Enough said.

Serves 8 to 10

FOR THE CRUST
2 cups graham cracker crumbs
¼ cup granulated sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

FOR THE FILLING
3 (8 oz.) packages cream cheese, room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 large eggs, room temperature
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup best-quality eggnog
2 Tablespoons brandy, dark rum, or Cognac
1½ teaspoons freshly grated nutmeg

FOR THE WHIPPED CREAM
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Pour graham cracker crumbs into a 9 inch-diameter springform pan; add butter and stir to mix. Press mixture evenly over bottom and ½ inch up side of pan. Bake crust for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and cool completely. Increase oven temperature to 425 degrees.

In the bowl of a freestanding mixer with paddle attachment, beat cream cheese and sugar on medium speed until smooth. Add vanilla extract and mix until incorporated. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition and scraping down inside of bowl as needed. Mix in flour, eggnog, brandy, and nutmeg until just incorporated. Pour batter into cooled, crust-lined pan and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 250 degrees and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, or until cake has a slight jiggle in the middle, and is slightly firm to the touch.

Run a thin-bladed knife between cheesecake and pan rim. Put cheesecake on a rack and let cool completely. Cover and chill until cold, at least 3 hours.
Remove pan rim. If any moisture has collected on cake, gently blot dry with a paper towel. Cut cake slices with a serrated knife, running knife under hot water and wiping clean after each slice.

To whip the cream; in a small bowl, whisk together cream, vanilla and sugar until medium peaks form. Dollop whipped cream onto cheesecake and dust with remaining ½ teaspoon nutmeg.

That's the Spirit! The 10 (Unbreakable) Commandments of the Holiday Cocktail Party

2009-11-28T19:08:00.000-08:00

Attention all you cosmo swilling hipsters: The chic cocktail party is back in a big way! While it’s true there are a few modern twists to consider, the cocktail party seems to be enjoying a renaissance of sorts. And what better time to throw one than with the festive holiday season upon us?

The cocktail party is a great way to entertain a large group without breaking a sweat. They’re much easier to pull off than a dinner party and so much more fun! While cocktail parties are meant to be more loose and casual than a sit down affair, there are a few key things to remember that will guarantee your soiree is a smash.

Commandment #1: Send invites early!

At least 3 weeks before your party if possible. It’s a busy season for everyone and you want to give your friends (and yourself) time to plan. Cocktail parties, unlike those wild college keggers, have a beginning and ending point, usually about 2 hours in length between 6PM and 10PM. Be sure to specify times on your invitations.

Commandment #2: Invited guests: pay attention!

If you have been invited to a holiday party and have been asked to RSVP, DO IT! The sooner the better. As a host there is nothing more maddening than not knowing how many people are actually coming to your party and having unexpected last minute arrivals. While the old adage “the more the merrier” is always true, be a gracious guest and let the host know in advance that you’re coming. That way there will be enough food and drinks for you and your entourage.

Commandment #3: Use some decorating cents!

You don’t have to spend a fortune or 3 days decorating for a party, but you want it to look like you put some effort into it. Start by clearing away the clutter (that’s what closets are for!) to make way for guests. Decide on a place to stash coats and bags as guests arrive. Fresh flowers are always a good idea. Create a festive mood by choosing a lively color scheme for table tops, plates and napkins. Streamlined strands of inexpensive white lights add a beautiful touch to a room. Don’t forget the bathroom! Scented candles, an elegant bottle of hand soap, extra toilet paper and a basket of high-quality napkins or paper towels make guests feel pampered.

Commandment #4: Lighting is everything!

You’d be surprised how many people forget about this all important detail. There are a few simple things you can do to transform your living room into party central: Invest in inexpensive dimmers for your lamps. If that’s not an option, try pink light bulbs. Don’t laugh! You’ll look hotter, trust me. Man discovered fire so take advantage of it! Candles are a quick way to lend a warm glow to a party. Try placing loose clusters of votives around the room. Remember, there’s a reason why bars are dark and swanky lounges have so many candles everywhere. It’s sexy, makes everyone look better and no one wants to feel like they’re partying in a supermarket!

Commandment #5: Music moves your party!

So do put some serious thought into your soundtrack. A few days ahead put together your iPod playlist or make mix cds. Keep the energy up and don’t be afraid to mix genres, but make sure the mood of the songs blend well together. See to it that the music isn’t too loud or too soft. You don’t want guests screaming to talk to each other. On the other hand, make sure they’re not straining to hear “Grandma Got Run Over by a Reindeer,” either. Which reminds me: Christmas music is fine, but please don’t play it all night long. We’ve all been forced to listen to it in every retail store since late October, so give your guests a break.

Commandment #6: Break the ice!

Make sure your guests have a drink in their hand no more than five minutes after they arrive. For many, socializing with a room full of strangers can be more stressful than being Sarah Palin in that recent Oprah interview! The simple act of holding a drink gives them a “prop” and something to do with their hands. As the host it’s your job to ease them in by introducing them around to those they haven’t met and point out an interest or a hobby they may have in common.

Commandment #7: Keep ‘em moving!

The entire point of a cocktail party is to mingle. To encourage that behavior, set up your bar and your buffet table on opposite ends of the room (or in a different one all together). That way you don’t end up with traffic jams and a huge cluster of people in one spot. Also, sitting down is a “no no!” To keep the energy up and the party moving only provide half as many seats as you have guests. Besides, we all look thinner and more elongated when we stand.

Commandment #8: No more than a mouthful!

This may sound obvious, but since it’s a cocktail party (which implies: drink in hand at all times) you only have one hand free for noshing. To that end, make sure that the food you choose to serve can be eaten accordingly. You’d be shocked at how many would-be-hosts never consider this detail. I actually went to a cocktail party once where the host served a spiral cut ham! Now don’t get me wrong, I’m all about a good Honeybaked, but there weren’t even eating utensils provided. Hello! Think it through, people. The rule is simple: One-handed, bite size (okay, maybe two bites!) morsels that can be handled gracefully while sipping a festive Pomtini (see recipe below).

Commandment #9: Make your party DIY!

Have bottles of wine at the ready, along with beer and sodas (for the designated drivers) chilling on ice. Set up the bar with pre-made pitchers of your party’s signature drinks (I always choose 2 and keep more on standby), along with a big bucket of ice, cocktail shakers and drink garnishes. This is a great way to get guests involved in the party and not get stuck playing mixologist all night. Just be sure to replenish pitchers and ice as they dwindle. Multiply number of guests times 3 to determine how many glasses you’ll need.

Commandment #10: Be a guest at your own party!

This is perhaps the most important commandment of all. It’s show time so no more stressing about the little details! You’ve invited people you love. You’ve taken care of every detail. Everything looks amazing. Take a deep breath before you open the door to your first guest. Pour them (and you) a well-deserved cocktail and go mingle. Happy Holidays!

Sugared & Spiced Nuts

Serves a party

1 ½ pounds whole, unsalted almonds (or your favorite nut)
½ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup water
½ tablespoon dried grated orange peel (available on spice aisle)
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
Pinch of nutmeg

In a large, heavy skillet over high heat, combine the sugar, water, orange zest, cinnamon, ginger, cloves and nutmeg. Bring to the boil and stir until sugar dissolves. Add the nuts to the pan and stir to coat evenly. Continue to stir until all the liquid has evaporated. Spread nuts on a parchment lined sheet pan and allow to cool.

Cheeseburger Sliders

Makes 24

FOR THE BUNS
2 (11 ounce) packages refrigerated crusty French bread dough (Pillsbury brand)
1 large egg yolk plus one tablespoon water lightly beaten, for egg wash
2 tablespoons sesame seeds

FOR THE BURGERS
2 to 3 tablespoons good olive oil, for pan searing
2 large egg yolks, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons steak sauce
1 ½ tablespoons Montreal Steak Seasoning
1 ½ pounds ground sirloin
6 slices deli-style sharp cheddar cheese, each cut into 4 equal squares
4 small plum tomatoes, thinly sliced
Green leaf lettuce, torn to fit the burgers

FOR THE SPECIAL SAUCE
¼ cup good quality mayonnaise
¼ cup ketchup
Kosher salt & freshly ground pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and set aside. Cut each package of bread dough into 12 equal pieces and roll each piece into a ball about the size of a “golf ball.” The elasticity of the dough makes it a bit of a struggle to keep it round. You may have to beat it into submission. Don’t be afraid to show it who’s boss. Place the newly subservient dough on prepared sheet pan and brush with the egg wash and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake in the center of the oven for 22 to 24 minutes until golden brown. Remove to a rack and cool completely.

Preheat olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until hot.

Meanwhile, to make the burgers, whisk together the egg yolks, steak sauce and grill seasoning in a medium bowl and add the ground sirloin. Gently combine with your fingertips being careful not to overwork the meat. Using approximately 2 tablespoons of the meat mixture, carefully roll into meatballs and press between your palms to flatten into a small patty. Pan sear until cooked through to desired doneness, about 3 minutes on each side. Place a piece of cheese on each patty and tent loosely with a piece of foil to melt cheese.

To assemble the burgers, cut each bun in half crosswise and place a teaspoon sized dollop of the special sauce on the bottom of each. Top with the hamburger patty, tomato slice, a piece of lettuce and the bun top. Skewer each mini cheeseburger with a festive toothpick to hold together and serve immediately.

Ham & Fontina Mini Frittatas

Makes 24

Nonstick (butter flavored) cooking spray, for muffin pans
¼ pound smoked deli ham, finely chopped
¼ cup Fontina cheese, finely grated
3 tablespoons fresh chives, chopped
8 large eggs
2 tablespoons heavy cream
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Spray the muffin pan(s) lightly with nonstick spray. In a small bowl lightly toss together the ham, cheese and chives. Fill each muffin cup with the ham and cheese mixture dividing evenly. In a 4 cup glass measuring cup, whisk together the eggs and the cream and season with salt and pepper. Pour the egg mixture into each cup until just even with the rim. Bake until frittatas are set, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Chicken Satay with Spicy Peanut Dipping Sauce

Serves 4

FOR THE CHICKEN
½ cup coconut milk
1 tablespoon fish sauce (nam pla or nuoc nam, available on Asian aisle of grocery store)
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
2 teaspoons sambal (hot chili paste, available on Asian aisle of grocery store)
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh ginger, finely grated
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 pound chicken tenders
Bamboo skewers, soaked in water

FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE
1 cup smooth natural peanut butter, well stirred
½ cup chicken stock
1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
3 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons tamari soy sauce
2 tablespoons fresh ginger, grated
2 teaspoons sambal (hot chili paste)
1 teaspoon turmeric
1 tablespoon dry roasted unsalted peanuts, chopped, for garnish

In a medium bowl combine the coconut milk, fish sauce, lime juice, sambal, brown sugar, cilantro, ginger, turmeric and season with salt and pepper. Pour marinade over the chicken tenders in a heavy gallon sized Ziplock bag, which in my opinion is the easiest and best way to marinate meat. Marinate for at least 30 minutes at room temperature, or even better for several hours in the refrigerator. The longer the meat swims in the marinade the more flavorful it will be.

Meanwhile, in a small bow, whisk together the peanut butter, chicken stock, rice vinegar, brown sugar, tamari, ginger, sambal and turmeric. Garnish with chopped peanuts.

Preheat an indoor grill pan or outdoor grill to high.

Thread the chicken tenders onto the bamboo skewers and grill until chicken is cooked through, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Serve immediately with spicy peanut dipping sauce.

Salt-Roasted Shrimp with Scampi Dip

Serves 8

1 (4-pound) box rock salt
16 uncooked, unpeeled large shrimp
1/3 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, chilled, diced
Kosher salt & Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon Italian parsley, chopped

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.

Spread salt in 13x9x2-inch baking dish. Arrange shrimp in single layer on top of salt. Roast shrimp on salt until just opaque in center and shells are pink, 6 to 7 minutes. If you're unsure of the shrimps doneness, simply cut into one and be sure that it's lost its glassy middle.

Bring the wine, lemon juice, and garlic to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat until liquid is reduced to 1 tablespoon, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Add a few pieces of butter; whisk until creamy. Return pan to low heat. Add a few more pieces of butter; whisk until smooth (do not let mixture boil). Continue whisking in butter, a few pieces at a time. Stir in parsley; season with plenty of salt and pepper. Let stand while shrimp finish cooking.

Transfer sauce to bowl and serve shirmp on a fresh bed of rock salt for presentation.

Smoked Salmon Blinis

Serves 8

1 package of good quality smoked salmon, thinly sliced
1 package frozen blinis (available at gourmet markets and in SoCal, Gelson’s)
½ cup crème fraiche or sour cream
Fresh dill or chives, chopped, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Arrange the blinis in a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake according to package directions for 4 minutes. Allow the blinis to cool slightly and top each one with a small dollop of crème fraiche, a piece of smoked salmon and garnish with a sprig of fresh dill. Serve immediately.

Pomtini

Serves 1

3 ounces good vodka
3 ounces pure pomegranate juice
1 ½ ounces triple sec
1 ½ ounces freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons simple syrup*

Pour vodka, pomegranate juice, triple sec and lime juice into a cocktail shaker. Tumble in a handful of ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled martini glass and let the party begin!

*Simple syrup is incredibly, well, simple to make. Combine 1 cup of granulated sugar with 1 cup water. Bring to the boil, stirring until sugar has dissolved. Allow to cool and store in the refrigerator.

Green Apple Martini

Serves 1

3 ounces good vodka
3 ounces Apple Pucker
1 ½ ounces sweet & sour mix
1 ½ ounces 7-Up
Green apple, thinly sliced, for garnish

Pour vodka, Apple Pucker, sweet & sour and 7-Up into a cocktail shaker. Tumble in a handful of ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled martini glass and float a thin slice of green apple on the top. Cheers!

VARIATION:
Caramel Apple Martini: Add 1 ½ ounces of caramel flavored syrup to the mix before shaking.

For a little extra color add a splash of grenadine syrup after straining into the glass, but don’t stir! Otherwise, you’ll just end up with a mottled mess. The syrup will settle to the bottom and add an extra layer of color and flavor. Garnish with a maraschino cherry.

Mini Cookies & Milk Shots

Serves 12

1½ cups cold milk
Assorted mini cookies (Oreo, Nutter Butters, Milano, Chocolate Chip, etc.)

Fill 2 ounce shot glasses with milk and place on a tray next to mini cookies. The perfect sweet ending to a holiday cocktail party.

The Beauty of the Feast: How to Cook Thanksgiving Dinner at Competition Level, even if you Burn Water!

2009-11-18T08:54:00.000-08:00

Thanksgiving conjures up two thoughts for me: one of warm, fuzzy splendor and one of sheer panic. The first: a beautiful feast lovingly prepared and spread out on gorgeous, crisp linens, the turkey itself the regal, bronzed centerpiece of a relaxed and wonderful day spent with family and friends, while the aroma of perfectly spiced pumpkin pie floats through the house. It’s too idyllic for words, like something out of a Norman Rockwell painting.

Then, of course, the record scratches in the soundtrack of my mind and I quickly come crashing back to reality and remember what it’s really been like so many Thanksgivings before: Me, standing in the midst of chaos, panic-stricken, with giblet gravy splattered across my shirt, the smoke alarm going off, me trying to cook (or rather, trying not to burn) a picture-perfect meal for a house full of eager and hungry guests. All the while I’m fending off hyperventilation and a full-blown anxiety attack that leaves me teetering on the verge of a nervous breakdown, wandering the streets, all wild-eyed and whacked, Whitney Houston-style, babbling incoherently about mashed potatoes gone horribly wrong! It’s enough to make me vow never to put myself through that again. I need a stiff drink just thinking about it!

But inevitably the next year rolls around, and like childbirth (so I’m told) I forget the agony of the past, telling myself it wasn’t quite as bad as I remember. After all, no one was hurt! And before I know it, I find myself pondering this year’s Thanksgiving menu once again. This time, however, unwilling to let history repeat itself, I’m applying an altogether different plan of attack.

Like so much in life, the key to a successful Turkey Day lies in planning ahead. So this year I’m starting early in both the planning and preparation. I'm not doing an entire turkey, instead, I'm sticking to the breast. It's everyone's favorite anyway. Then, on the day of, there is little more to do than roast the turkey breasts, light a few candles, and eat myself into a tryptophan-induced coma. My game plan is simple as long as I (and you) remember three things:

1) Choose a foolproof menu that can (mostly) be made ahead

2) Let go of impossible standards of perfection, and

3) Always remember, it’s not life or death so make it fun.

Menu

Cranberry Kir
Union Square Café Rosemary Cashews
Wild Mushroom & Barley Soup
Herb Stuffed Turkey Breasts with Pan Gravy
Savory Herb & Gruyere Strata
Vanilla-Scented Cranberry Sauce
Steam-Sautéed Green Beans with Caramelized Shallots
Yukon Gold & Sweet Potato Gratin
Pumpkin Gooey Butter Cake with Cinnamon Whipped Cream

A (Mostly) Do-Ahead Thanksgiving Day for Eight

Up to one week ahead: Order the turkey breasts from the grocery store or butcher. Shop for nonperishable food items, beverages, and decorative elements like candles. Make rosemary cashews and store in an airtight container. Don't eat them all! Make iPod playlist for guests.

2 days ahead: Pick up the turkey breasts and other groceries; make the soup and the cranberry sauce.

1 day ahead: Caramelize shallots, wash and trim green beans, make Savory Herb & Gruyere Strata, Whip Cream, set table.

Thanksgiving morning: Choose a sassy outfit for yourself. Take a deep breath and relax. You can do it!

2 hours ahead: Prepare, stuff, and roast turkey breasts. Bring cranberry sauce to room temperature.

1 1/2 hours ahead: Make potato gratin; bake along with the strata while turkey breasts are resting.

30 minutes ahead: Gently reheat soup.

15 minutes before guests arrive: Turn on music, light the candles, pop the champagne cork, put out cashews, and steam sauté green beans.

The rest of the day: Relax and give thanks.

Cranberry Kir

2 bottles good-quality champagne, well chilled
1 Bottle of pure cranberry juice Fresh cranberries for garnish

Fill a tall champagne flute 3/4 full with champagne. Top off with a splash of cranberry juice and garnish with cranberries. Cheers!

Union Square Café Rosemary Cashews

1 pound dry roasted whole cashews, unsalted
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 Tablespoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Spread the cashews out on a sheet pan and toast them in the oven for about 6 minutes until they begin to smell nutty and take on a bit of color. Meanwhile, in a large bowl combine the melted butter, salt, chopped rosemary, brown sugar, and cayenne pepper. Stir to combine. When the cashews come out of the oven toss them thoroughly with the butter mixture to coat. Serve warm.

Wild Mushroom & Barley Soup

Serves 8

2 ounces dried porcini mushrooms
3½ cups hot tap water
¼ cup good olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 medium carrots, peeled and diced
2 ribs celery, diced
1 fresh bay leaf
1 pound crimini mushrooms, cleaned* and sliced
2 teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
1 quart beef stock
½ cup pearl barley
¼ cup flat-leaf parsley, chopped

In a medium bowl, soak porcini mushrooms in hot water for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large stock pot or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium heat and sauté the onion, carrots, celery and bay leaf until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the crimini mushrooms and the thyme. Cook until the mushrooms soften and give off their liquid, about 5 or 6 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Fish the porcini mushrooms out of the soaking liquid with a slotted spoon and chop roughly. Strain the liquid through a fine mesh sieve or a piece of cheesecloth to catch any grit that has collected on the bottom of the bowl. Add the soaking liquid to the pot along with the beef stock and barley. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a gentle simmer until the barley is tender, about 40 minutes. Stir in the parsley and serve immediately.

*Never run mushrooms under water. They’re like little sponges and will soak up all that liquid and become waterlogged. Simply wipe them with a damp cloth, or dust them off with a pastry brush.

Herb-Roasted Turkey Breasts with Pan Gravy

Serves 4

FOR THE TURKEY

1 small onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 lemon, zested
12 fresh sage leaves
Large handful fresh flat-leaf parsley
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for oiling pan
1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
6 fresh bay leaves
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 boneless turkey breast halves, skin on (about 2 to 2½ pounds each)

FOR THE PAN GRAVY

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/4 cup tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 to 3 cups chicken stock

Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper

1 tablespoon fresh sage, chopped

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Oil a roasting pan and set it aside. Put the onion and the lemon zest into the bowl of a food processor and blitz until fine. Add the sage, parsley, olive oil, and 1 teaspoon salt and pulse until it forms a coarse paste. Place 2 of the bay leaves and the butter into a small pan and heat over medium-low heat until the butter is bubbling. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Place the turkey breasts on a work surface. Carefully run your fingers between the skin and the flesh from one end, being careful not to pull it completely off, creating a pocket. Season the turkey breasts generously with salt and pepper. Stuff half of the herb paste under the skin of each breast, and spread it evenly under the skin. Transfer the breasts to the roasting pan, and slide 2 bay leaves underneath each one. (The heat of the pan will release the bay leaf oils and flavor the breast.) Using a pastry brush, baste the breasts with half of the bay butter. Place the turkey in the oven and roast for 20 minutes.

After 20 minutes, baste the turkey breasts with the remaining butter, and decrease the oven temperature to 400 degrees. Roast for an additional 25 to 30 minutes, until cooked through, and a thermometer placed in the thickest part of the breast registers 160 degrees.

Remove turkey breasts from the oven, transfer to a platter, cover, and let rest for 10 minutes loosely tented under foil before carving. Meanwhile, to get on with the gravy, place the roasting pan over the burner on medium heat. Melt the butter and sprinkle the flour over the pan juices, and cook, stirring, for a few minutes to make a roux. Add the wine, and scrape the pan to lift the bits that are stuck to the bottom. Cook for a minute to burn off the alcohol, then, while stirring, pour in the chicken stock. Bring to a simmer, and stir until thickened. Season with salt and pepper and add the sage. Slice the turkey breast on the diagonal, and serve with warm gravy.

Savory Herb & Gruyere Strata

Serves 8

¼ cup unsalted butter, plus more for buttering pan
2 shallots, sliced
1/2 cup dry white wine
6 large eggs
2 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon white pepper
2½ cups Gruyere cheese (about 10 ounces)
2½ cups Swiss cheese (about 10 ounces)
¼ cup fresh chives, chopped
¼ cup fresh sage, chopped
¼ cup fresh marjoram, chopped
1 pound loaf of day old French bread, cut into ½-inch pieces

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Liberally butter a 7x11 inch glass baking dish and set aside. Saute shallots in butter until soft. Add wine and simmer for about 3 to 5 minutes to reduce the wine. Set aside.

Whisk eggs, cream, salt and pepper in a large bowl, add shallot wine mixture. Combine the cheese and herbs together. Add all but 1 cup cheese to the egg mixture then carefully fold in the bread pieces. Allow to stand a minimum of 1 hour in the refrigerator, or up to overnight.

Pour mixture into prepared pan and sprinkle with remaining cheese herb mixture. Bake bread pudding until golden and puffed, about 40 minutes. Cool 10 minutes.

Yukon Gold and Sweet Potato Gratin

Serves 4

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup whole milk (scant)
1 large garlic clove, peeled and crushed
3/4 teaspoon. kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
3/4 pound Yukon gold potatoes
3/4 pound sweet potatoes or yams
1 1/2 cups heavy cream

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Liberally butter the bottom of a rectangular baking dish with half of the butter and set aside. Place a small saucepan with the milk, garlic, salt, pepper, and nutmeg over low heat while you set about peeling and slicing the potatoes. A mandoline is perfect for this, but I usually opt for a really sharp butcher knife, mostly because I'm too lazy to drag out and wash any extra equipment. Slice the potatoes about an eighth of an inch thick, discarding the smallest slices. Don't wash the potatoes after slicing them the surface starch is indispensable.

Evenly arrange the potatoes in the bottom of the baking pan, one overlapping row at a time. Layer the following row about a third of the way over the previous row. Alternate rows of sweet and Yukon gold potatoes. Continue until the baking pan is neatly paved. It should look something like a shingled rooftop.

Bring the milk to a boil, fish out the garlic clove, and pour the milk over the potatoes. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake in the middle of the oven for about 15 minutes until most of the milk has been absorbed. Meanwhile, set the cream over low heat and bring to a boil. Pour the cream over the semi-cooked potatoes and dot the entire surface with the remaining butter.

Continue to bake, uncovered, for another 20 to 25 minutes until the potatoes are golden brown and spotted with darker, crisp areas. The potatoes will be dotted with thickened cream, especially between the slices.Allow the gratin to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

Vanilla- Scented Cranberry Sauce

Serves 8 to 10

2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice
1 cup sugar, or to taste
2 whole vanilla beans, split lengthwise, seeds scraped out
2 (12 ounce) bags fresh cranberries

In a medium saucepan combine orange juice, sugar and vanilla beans, stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Add the cranberries and bring to the boil. Reduce heat and simmer until berries pop, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Fish the vanilla bean out and scrape the seeds into the sauce and mix well. Discard the bean. Refrigerate until ready to use.

Steam Suateed Green Beans with Caramelized Shallots

Serves 8

3 tablespoons good olive oil
6 large shallots, peeled & thinly sliced
2 1/2 pounds fresh green beans, cleaned and trimmed
1/3 cup water
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

In medium skillet, heat oil over low heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes or until soft and deep golden brown. Don’t rush this part. It really does take about 15 minutes to develop the sugars and caramelize the shallots. Trust me, your patience will be rewarded. They key to success is low and slow.

Meanwhile, as the shallots are cooking away, get on with the green beans. In a large saucepan over high heat, combine the green beans and water. Cover saucepan with a tightly fitting lid and resist the urge to lift the lid and peek until steam begins to escape around the edges of the lid, about 5 minutes. Remove lid and sauté until beans are crisp-tender, about 2 more minutes. Remove from heat, drain and toss with the butter, caramelized shallots and season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.

Pumpkin Gooey Butter Cake with Cinnamon Whipped Cream

FOR THE CAKE

1 package Butter Recipe Golden cake mix
1 large egg
8 tablespoons unslated butter, melted

FOR THE FILLING

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, softened
1 (15-ounce) can solid pack pumpkin
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1¾ cups confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

FOR THE CINNAMON WHIPPED CREAM

2 cups heavy cream
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
3 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon of cinnamon, or to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Combine the cake mix, egg, and butter and mix well with an electric mixer. Pat the mixture into the bottom of a lightly greased 13 by 9-inch baking pan. To make the filling: In a large bowl, beat the cream cheese and pumpkin until smooth. Add the eggs, vanilla, and butter, and beat together. Next, add the confectioners’ sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and mix well. Spread pumpkin mixture over cake batter and bake for 40 to 50 minutes. Make sure not to overbake as the center should be a little gooey. Serve with fresh cinnamon whipped cream.

Winter Warmth: Soul-Soothing Comfort from the Kitchen

2009-10-12T16:22:00.000-07:00

There are times in life when I seek solace from a harsh world purely through the means of butter, cream, and starch. Sometimes nothing else will do. It’s times like these when I just want to retreat into my shell, put on my fuzziest slippers and softest, most lived-in robe, and putter around the kitchen making something warm and soul-soothing. As clichéd as that sounds, it really is one of my guiltiest and most savored pleasures, and my preferred method of restoring balance and calm to my hectic life.

There’s something about a simmering pot on the stove that makes me feel all is right with the world. Especially when the end result is a big bowl of Hearty Winter Chili, topped with cheese and sour cream and accompanied by warm, tender corn bread, cooked the old-fashioned way in a cast-iron skillet. When I’m feeling particularly out-of-sorts, I find the meditative repetition of stirring a pan of Saffron Risotto for 20 minutes - the only way to achieve that melting creaminess - an almost Zen-like experience. Top it with juicy grilled shrimp and the dish becomes transcendent!

When I crave something just a little more exotic and worldly, but no less warming and gratifying, it has to be Indian Coconut-Chicken Curry, spiked with coriander, cumin, and creamy coconut milk. This dish can be made in minutes and tastes even better reheated the next day.

And of course, for many, the ultimate comfort food comes in the form of chocolate. Old-Fashioned Whoopie Pies have been a favorite of mine since childhood, and these dense chocolate cakes sandwiching a billowy layer of marshmallow cream are the ultimate sinful indulgence.

So the next time you need a break from the world, or just need to indulge in a little guilty pleasure of your own, you just may find it in a bowl of something warm and comforting made in your own kitchen. Lived-in robe and fuzzy slippers optional.

Hearty Winter Chili

Serves 8

FOR CHILI
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 1/2 lbs. lean ground sirloin
1/4 cup dark chili powder
2 tablespoons grill seasoning
1 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 to 3 tablespoons hot sauce, to taste
1 large onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 large bell peppers, chopped
1/2 bottle beer (about 1 cup)
1 (14-oz.) can tomato sauce
1/2 cup smoky barbecue sauce

FOR GARNISH
Sharp cheddar cheese, grated
Sour cream
Scallions, thinly sliced

In a large stock pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, add olive oil followed by ground sirloin. Season meat with chili powder, grill seasoning, cumin, Worcestershire, and hot sauce. Break up the meat into small crumbles as it cooks.

Add onion, garlic, and bell peppers and cook until onions are translucent and soft, about 10 minutes more. Add beer and deglaze the pan, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan and allowing the alcohol to cook off. Add tomato and barbecue sauces and bring to a bubble. Let chili simmer 15 minutes. Adjust seasonings and heat level to your taste. Remove from heat and serve with your favorite garnishes.

Hot Skillet Corn Bread with Honey Butter

Serves 10 to 12

FOR CORN BREAD
1 1/2 cups white or yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon. granulated sugar
1 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
2 eggs
1 cup fresh or frozen corn kernels
2 tablespoon vegetable oil

FOR HONEY BUTTER
1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup honey
Pinch of kosher salt

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, sugar, and salt. In a small bowl, whisk together melted butter, buttermilk, eggs, and corn, and fold into the dry ingredients, stirring until just combined.

Over high heat, add oil to cast iron skillet and heat until smoking. Quickly pour batter into the hot skillet and carefully and quickly transfer the skillet to the preheated oven.

Bake for 10 to15 minutes, or until corn bread is golden-brown around the edges and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. The top should spring back when lightly pressed. Cut into wedges and serve slathered with honey butter.

Indian Coconut-Chicken Curry

Serves 6

1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 large onion, thinly sliced
4 teaspoon finely chopped garlic
4 teaspoon finely chopped ginger
2 tablespoon ground coriander
2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper, or to taste
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1/2 cup chicken stock
2 pounds boneless chicken, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup unsweetened coconut milk
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/3 cup chopped cilantro, for garnish (optional)
Steamed basmati rice, for serving

In a Dutch oven or enameled cast-iron casserole, heat oil, then add onion and cook until nicely browned around the edges, about 7 minutes. Add garlic and ginger and cook for 1 minute. Add coriander, cumin, turmeric, cayenne, and black pepper and stir for 1 minute. Add salt, tomatoes, and chicken stock and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the tomatoes are softened. Add chicken and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.

Add coconut milk and simmer partially covered for another 15 minutes, or until the sauce thickens and the chicken is cooked. Add cinnamon and cloves and simmer another minute. Remove from heat and garnish with cilantro. Serve with steamed basmati rice.

Saffron Risotto with Grilled Shrimp

Serves 4

FOR RISOTTO
5 cups chicken stock
1/4 cup olive oil, divided
1/4 cup unsalted butter, divided
1 large shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 cups Arborio rice
2 pinches saffron threads
2/3 cups dry white wine
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

FOR SHRIMP
1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on
1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Preheat outdoor grill or indoor grill pan over high heat.

Heat chicken stock over medium-high heat until just below the boil. In a large sauté pan, heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil and 2 Tbsp. butter over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic and sweat until translucent, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes.

Add rice and saffron, turning to coat, and sauté until the edges of the rice begin to look slightly translucent, about 2 minutes. Add wine and cook until most of the liquid is absorbed and the pan is almost dry. Add one ladleful of hot stock, stirring constantly until liquid is almost absorbed. Continue adding stock, one ladle at a time, stirring each addition until the liquid is almost absorbed, about 22 to 25 minutes total. Stir in remaining butter and cheese and season with salt and pepper; cover.

Toss shrimp with remaining oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill shrimp until pink, opaque, and curled in on themselves, about 2 minutes per side. Spritz shrimp with lemon juice and parsley and serve over risotto.

Old-Fashioned Whoopie Pies

Makes 8 pies

FOR CAKES
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup Dutch-process cocoa powder
1 1/4 teaspoon. baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
1 cup dark brown sugar, packed
1 egg

FOR FILLING
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
1 (7 oz.) jar marshmallow fluff
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Line two sheet pans with parchment paper.

In a small bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa powder, baking soda, and salt. In another small bowl, stir together buttermilk and 1 tsp. vanilla.

In a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream together 1/2 cup butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add egg, scraping down the sides of the bowl to combine. Reduce mixer speed to low and alternately mix in dry ingredients and buttermilk mixture in batches, beginning and ending with flour. Scrape down side of bowl occasionally and mix until smooth.

Using a 1/4-cup ice cream scoop, drop mounds of batter about 2 inches apart on prepared sheet pans. Bake in upper and lower thirds of oven, switching position of sheets halfway through baking, until tops are puffed and cakes spring back when touched, 12–13 minutes. Transfer cakes to a rack to cool completely.

To make the filling, cream together remaining butter and confectioners’ sugar until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add vanilla and marshmallow fluff and continue beating until smooth and light, about 2 more minutes.

To assemble the pies, dollop a rounded tablespoon of filling on flat sides of half of cakes and top with remaining cakes.

Awaken Your Senses & Help a Worthy Food Charity Win $10,000!

2009-09-29T19:10:00.000-07:00

It's official, fall is finally here! We're almost 30 days into the brrrrr months (Septembrrrr, Octobrrrr. You get the picture) and that means, roaring fires, my favorite old robe, comfy slippers and the return of the hot breakfast.

As excited as I am for the change of seasons (okay, I admit they don't actually change much in L.A, but let me have my moment) I'm even more excited to announce that Good Bite and I have teamed up with Quaker Oats to launch the Awaken Your Senses Challenge. It's a campaign that takes the favorite food memories of twelve of the nation's top food bloggers and allows yours truly to use them as inspiration to create twelve original Oatmeal Creations. And how cool is this... America (that's you guys!) gets to vote on the winner! But wait! It gets even better...

Every two weeks, a new round of videos will be posted where you can vote for your favorite. With each round, semi-finalists will be selected.

And the best part...

At the end of eight weeks the blogger’s video with the most votes wins! And $10,000 will be donated to their favorite food-related charity! So what are you waiting for? Head to YouTube.com/QuakerTalk and vote!

A couple of behind the scenes shots from the Quaker Awaken Your Senses shoot.

Life is Just a Bowl of...Cherry Garcia?

2009-07-07T18:37:00.000-07:00

Forgive the obviousness of the title. Clearly the brain freeze that comes from nearly non-stop ice cream making (and eating) is getting to me, stifling my creativity for writing perhaps, while vehemently fanning the flames of an undying obsession. Let this also serve as my excuse for not posting in over a week, but I’m sure you’ll forgive me when you taste my latest creation. Well, my homage to a classic Ben & Jerry’s creation really. One inspired by the bountiful red cherries of the summer season.

When it first occurred to me to turn those ruby colored, jewel-like fruits into ice cream I decided to take my search online to find a published recipe for Cherry Garcia. I was disappointed to find that none of the recipes started with a cooked custard base, something I’ve extolled the virtues of before and have become almost evangelical about. I’m convinced it’s the only way to get that densely rich, über-creaminess that is paramount in great ice cream. So, heaving a heavy sigh I decided the only thing to do was to write a recipe of my own.

And so the journey began. As is my creative process, my kitchen cupboards were soon plastered with post-it notes filled with my nearly indiscernible scrawl as I mixed, whisked, scalded and stirred my way to the perfect custard base. Too many egg yolks and the ice cream tastes “eggy.” Too few and it’s not dense enough. 7 egg yolks I decided were the perfect amount. Now it needed just the right hit of sugary sweetness. I added sugar starting with less, tasting and adding more as I went until I’d achieved the perfect balance of sweet but not cloying. Whenever I write a recipe the biggest challenge is remembering to scribble down each addition on those post-it notes as I go, before I forget what I’ve done. As you can surely imagine this becomes an even bigger challenge when I’m writing cocktail recipes, but I’ll get to that another day. I decided that a bit of black cherry preserves would be just the thing to give extra cherry flavor and a rosy blush to the ice cream base. When I was satisfied with the proportions of tart and sweet I whisked the cream into very soft peaks and folded it into the cooled custard. This extra step of lightly whipping the cream only adds to the dreamy, cloud-like texture that is both light and dense at the same time. A culinary contradiction of the fondest sort!

After a 25 minute whir in the Cuisinart, the ice cream was at the glorious soft serve stage. This is exactly when you want to mix in the cherries and chocolate and where I stand hovering over the ice cream maker, spoon in hand, greedily shoveling big mouthfuls of the frozen ambrosia. I heave another heavy sigh, but this time it's full of deep and utter satisfaction.

Ah yes, life is indeed a bowl of Cherry Garcia.

Homemade Ben & Jerry’s Cherry Garcia
(With Two Flavor Variations)

Densely rich, über-creamy and studded with bits of fresh cherries and dark chocolate. Enough said.

Makes a scant 2 quarts

1½ cups whole milk
7 large eggs yolks
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
6 tablespoons black cherry preserves
1½ cups heavy cream, lightly whipped
4 ounces good quality dark chocolate, chopped
1 cup fresh cherries, pitted and chopped

Heat the milk in a pan, and while it’s getting warm, beat together the sugar and egg yolks and vanilla extract in the bowl of a freestanding mixer with a paddle attachment until the mixture is thick, pale yellow and falls back on itself in a ribbon, about 3 minutes. When the milk is just below the boil slowly drizzle it in a thin and continuous stream while whisking briskly so the egg is gradually warmed up. Return everything to the saucepan and cook while stirring with a wooden spoon. Make sure that you are constantly scraping the spoon across the bottom of the pan so the custard does not scorch. The custard is done when it has thickened slightly and can evenly coat the back of the spoon and when you run your finger along the back of the spoon and it holds the “line.” Don’t let the mixture come to a boil, or it may curdle.

Strain the custard into a metal bowl through a fine sieve to remove any bits of egg and stir in the black cherry preserves. Nestle the bowl of custard into a large bowl of ice water to cool more quickly. I do this because I’m incredibly impatient, but you could just put the whole thing in the fridge to cool completely. Lightly whip the cream until it holds a very soft peak and fold into the cooled custard. Continue stirring occasionally until mixture is cold, about 20 minutes.

Transfer the custard to an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. When the ice cream is almost finished churning add in the chopped chocolate and the cherries to combine. Put the finished ice cream in a storage container and freeze until firm.

*Variations: This basic ice cream recipe is so versatile that you can add any flavor combinations you like to the base. Below are two of my favorites.

Toasted Coconut: Substitute 1 (15 ounce) can Coco Lopez Cream of Coconut (NOT coconut milk!) in place of the cherry preserves and 1 cup sweetened toasted coconut in place of the cherries and chocolate.

Peanut Butter Cup: Substitute 1 cup creamy peanut butter in place of the cherry preserves and 1 bag of Reese’s mini peanut butter cups, chopped, in place of the cherries and chocolate.

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The Future Called & I Let It Go To Voicemail

2009-06-24T13:28:00.001-07:00

I have an uncanny knack for regularly arriving at the future slightly ahead of the rest and waiting for them to catch up. At the risk of sounding (even more) arrogant, I’ve always fancied myself a bit of a Jetson living in a world of Flintstones when it comes to anything even remotely pop culture related. Case in point: I actually cancelled my subscription to US Weekly because I noticed the latest issue at the grocery store checkout several days before it arrived in my mail box! Dear US Weekly: Celebrity news has a shelf life! You know when you hear a song on mainstream radio and you announce that you really like it and someone rains on your parade by piping up, “Oh that tired old song?! I had the dance mix import from the UK nine months ago!” Subtext: You’re sooo 2000-LATE! I’m totally that guy! Obnoxious? Maybe. Okay, definitely, but I’ve always loved being “in the know” at least 15 minutes before everyone else catches on. Call it a personality quirk or a design flaw, but I can’t help it! It’s no wonder one of my favorite moments in last year’s Sex and the City movie had the girls sitting around a table sipping cosmos in a chic Manhattan restaurant and Carrie asking, “Why did we stop drinking these again?” Without missing a beat Samantha replied, “Because everyone else started.” Enough said.

And that brings me to the last few months of my life - the part where I was apparently living in the dark, or even worse, the past! Yikes! Seems I may be losing my touch. I got a call from my manager one day last spring asking me to meet with a cutting edge production company in L.A. (http://deca.tv/) about being a host of a new cooking web series called Good Bite (http://goodbite.com/). “Web series?!” I asked, already conjuring up inventive excuses to get out of the meeting. “Web series,“ she reiterated, in a tone that I knew better than to argue with. Perhaps this is a good time to mention that my nickname for my manager is “Momager;” you know, like Dina Lohan or Terri Shields. Anyway, I did what I was told, met with the production company and loved what I heard! On my way home from the meeting, stuck in traffic on L.A’s 405 freeway I called my manager to say, “Get me this job! I have to be a part of this.”

Working hard behind the scenes on Good Bite

What I had been blissfully unaware of is just how big internet programming is becoming. It really is the future and apparently I missed the memo (insert Flintstone joke here). More and more people are going to their computer screens for entertainment, news and information. We no longer have to worry if we missed the latest episode of CSI, or much more critical for me, The Real Housewives of New Jersey (can you imagine?!) Entire episodes of television series are available online or on iTunes, many the very next day! Even Food Network has jumped on the bandwagon by launching their own site dedicated exclusively to webisode programming (http://food2.com/). I hate being the last to know.

Perhaps one of the coolest things DECA is doing with the creation of Good Bite is bringing together America’s top food bloggers for lively online video discussions about all things food and cooking, along with demo videos from myself and the other Good Bite hosts. And what an honor it is to be working along side such an esteemed group. Each 2-minute episode of the show makes delicious food easy, provides accessible recipes and solutions for home cooks and an opportunity for you to become part of the discussion. The Good Bite website is focused on finding the very best in food and bringing it to you in a fresh and inventive way.

Working hard behind the scenes on Good Bite

All I can say is it’s a good thing I didn’t let the phone go to voicemail the day my Momager called about that fateful meeting. Turns out she had some news for me... about the future.

Killer Burgers with Roasted Tomatoes,
Caramelized Balsamic Onions
& Smoky Chipotle Ketchup

Serves 6

FOR THE BURGERS
2 1/4 pounds ground brisket
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons steak sauce (recommended: A1 Brand)
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper
3 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter

FOR THE ONIONS
1 pound red onions, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch rings
2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Kosher salt, to taste
2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar

FOR THE KETCHUP
1 cup ketchup
1 to 2 teaspoons canned chipotle peppers*, seeded and diced, or to taste
1 to 2 tablespoons adobo sauce from can, or to taste
2 teaspoons aged balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

FOR THE TOMATOES
6 Roma tomatoes
Olive oil for drizzling
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

FIXIN’S
6 Brioche Rolls or good hamburger buns, split, cut side toasted or grilled
6 thick slices sharp cheddar cheese
2 cups baby arugula leaves
1 ripe avocado, peeled and sliced

To caramelize the onions, heat oil over low heat in a large skillet. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, for 20 minutes or until soft and deep golden brown. Don’t rush this part. It really does take about 20 minutes to develop the sugars and caramelize the onions. Trust me, your patience will be rewarded. They key to success is low and slow. Season with salt and pepper and add the balsamic vinegar during the last couple of minutes to deglaze the pan. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Spread tomato halves on a sheet pan and drizzle with olive oil. Season generously with salt and pepper and toss together to ensure everything is coated evenly. Roast for 45 minutes, cut side up, without turning, until the tomatoes are concentrated and caramelized. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.

To make the ketchup, Stir together the ketchup, chipotle peppers and adobo sauce in a small bowl. Whisk in the vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.

To make the burgers, whisk together the egg yolks, steak sauce and salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add the ground brisket and put a touch of olive oil on clean hands to keep meat from sticking and to prevent over mixing. Carefully work the meat with your fingertips until just combined. It’s important not to overwork the meat, doing so results in a tough burger. To form patties, shape a loose ball in your hand and press half a tablespoon of the cold butter into the center of the meat. Lightly form each hamburger with the balls of your hands making sure the butter is entirely encased, but don’t pack the meat. The more you pack, the denser the burger will be and it will leave more potential for shrinkage. The burgers should be half an inch thick. Season both sides of the burgers with salt and pepper.

Heat an outdoor grill or indoor grill pan to medium-high.

Grill the burgers for 5 to 7 minutes on each side to desired doneness. Remove to a plate, add cheese and cover with aluminum foil. Allow the burgers to rest for 5 minutes and serve immediately on buns with desired fixin’s.

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Peach Crisp & Therapy

2009-06-22T20:40:00.000-07:00

I blame it all on my Mother. She was the queen of the perfect pie crust, hands down. People would rave when they tasted it, they’d marvel at the flaky texture and the perfect golden color. They’d inevitably ask for the recipe. She’d share it with them gladly. There wasn’t much to it, after all, just flour, salt, fat and ice water. “The same things I use!” they’d say. Ah yes, but the “secret,” she’d tell them with a Bree Van de Kamp-esque smile, lies in the technique. Ice-cold ingredients and never, ever roll out the crust more than once or it will be tough. Couple that with the fact that I never did get the Easy Bake Oven I so desperately wanted as a kid and you can see how my Mother single-handedly scared me off of making pie pastry for life! Or at least until my twenties, when after years of therapy for my culinary self-esteem I gathered the courage to attempt it again without fear of failure or judgment.

I'm kidding. Kinda.

While I’m happy to report that I’m no longer intimidated by pie pastry, I’m also not afraid to admit that I tend to favor quick and easy in the kitchen (something pie pastry doesn’t have going for it). I suppose this is my not-so-subtle way of admitting that I’m sorely lacking in the pastry-patience department, especially on hot summer days when I’d rather be anywhere but kitchen-bound, saddled with a rolling pin. That’s doesn’t mean however, that I’m not always up for a good homemade dessert, especially one that takes advantage of the beautiful stone fruits of the season. Enter: Peach Crisp!

Crisps, crumbles and cobblers, in the summer in particular, are wonderful things and require no further embellishment other than perhaps, a scoop of good vanilla ice cream. They are the essence of all that is desirable of the season and they satisfy my constant, if nagging need - yes need - for something homey and sweet. To further bolster my case, crisps are a mere fraction the effort of pie and you get all of the pay off without all the work of pie pastry - or the therapy bill it can bring.

Whew! Dessert handled. Culinary self-esteem intact.

Summer Peach Crisp

with Pecans & Toffee Bits

This recipe is from my good friend Susan Cox of Dana Point, California. Or as she’s affectionately known, my Real OC Housewife! Thanks, Susan!

Serves 6

FOR THE FILLING
6 cups peaches, peeled and sliced (about 2.5 lbs)
¼ cup granulated sugar
¼ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

FOR THE TOPPING
¾ cup all-purpose flour
1/3 cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
¾ cup English toffee bits (like Skor or Heath)
½ cup pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Place six 1¼ cup ramekins on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper; set aside.

Meanwhile, immerse the peaches in boiling water for 30 seconds, then place them in a bowl of ice water. Peel the peaches and slice them into thick wedges and place them into a large bowl. Add the sugar, brown sugar, flour and lime juice and blend well. Divide filling evenly among ramekins.

To make the topping, whisk flour, brown sugar and salt in bowl to blend. Using fingertips rub in butter until mixture hold together in clumps. Stir in toffee and pecans; sprinkle over filling.

Bake Crisps until filling bubbles and topping is golden brown, about 40 minutes. Cool 10 minutes. Serve warm with ice cream if desired.

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To Brine or Not to Brine: That is the Question

2009-06-15T20:09:00.000-07:00

This is my rebel yell in recipe form in support of the pork chop. For some reason it just doesn’t get the respect it deserves. And it’s no wonder, when you see the pitiful displays of wafer-thin chops laid out in grocery store meat cases across the country. It doesn’t do much to inspire gastronomic creativity or debunk the myth that pork chops are dry, chewy and generally flavorless. I can’t pretend I haven’t been the recipient of a few tough, overcooked pork chops that could have passed as shoe leather in my day, no matter how much shaking and baking was involved! However, in my never ending pursuit of culinary enlightenment I’ve figured out a few things along the way that make all the difference.

1. Forget those wafer-thin pork chops in your grocer’s meat counter. Pork is bred so lean these days that it’s nearly impossible to cook something that thin without drying it out. Instead, become fast friends with the guy behind the meat counter. Ask him to cut you some nice, thick (I’m talking 2-inch thick) center-cut chops. This is the first step to changing your relationship with pork chops. I know it can be a bit intimidating talking to the gruff-looking guy behind the counter wielding the meat cleaver and sporting the bloody apron, but he doesn’t bite and special requests are actually a part of his job.

2. Brining is key. Admittedly, this requires a bit of foresight in your menu planning since the chops need to hang out in the brine for a minimum of 8 hours, but 24 is preferred to get the maximum flavor and benefit. If you’re not familiar with brining it’s an uber simple process of creating a salty solution infused with aromatics that not only give the meat big flavor from the inside out, but keep it incredibly tender and juicy. Trust me: once you’ve used this method you’ll never go back. (See recipe below).

3. What ever you do, DO NOT overcook your meat! You can brine your pork chops for a week, but if you overcook them, it's not going to matter. A perfectly cooked pork chop is actually (lean forward people) still slightly pink in the center. It should be cooked to 145° to ensure tender juiciness. I know that some of you are still adhering to your Grandma's rule that pork has to be well done otherwise, "You could end up with trichinosis!" Hmmm, perhaps now we know where pork chops that bear more of a resemblance to footwear than food came from. I know it's hard to question Grandma's wisdom, but not unlike the moment you came to grips with the truth about Santa Claus, you'll come to accept this one too. Sorry, Grandma.

If I’ve done my job effectively, hopefully I’ve convinced you to get out there and try pork chops again for the very first time. Especially when they're Brown Sugar-Brined Pork Chops with Caramelized Onion and Peach Marmalade. And for the record, the brining question? Strictly rhetorical.

Grilled Brown Sugar-Brined Pork Chops
with Caramelized Onion Peach Marmalade

Serves 4

FOR THE BRINE
7 cups warm water
¼ cup kosher salt
½ cup packed light brown sugar
1 sprig fresh rosemary
3 teaspoons black peppercorns
4 boneless, center-cut pork chops (each about 2 inches thick)

FOR THE MARMALADE
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups sliced sweet onions (Vidalia or Maui)
2 cups chopped peeled peaches, fresh or frozen
1/3 cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

In a large bowl combine the salt, brown sugar, rosemary sprig and peppercorns. Add the warm water and stir until salt and sugar are dissolved. Allow water to cool slightly and place pork in brine and set a plate on top to keep meat completely submerged. Cover with plastic wrap and chill at least 8 hours or overnight.

To peel the peaches, bring a pot of water to the boil. Meanwhile, fill a large bowl with ice water to have at the ready. Plunk the peaches into the boiling water and let them go for roughly 45 seconds to a minute. Remove the peaches and immediately plunge into the ice bath. When they're cool enough to handle gently peel away the skins.

To make the marmalade, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and cook over low heat, stirring often, until transparent and starting to caramelize, 15 to 20 minutes. Add peaches, granulated sugar and vinegar. Cook, stirring often, until the peaches start to break down and the marmalade is caramelized and sticky, about 15 minutes. Stir in the rosemary and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Preheat an outdoor grill or indoor grill pan to medium-high heat.

Remove pork from brine and pat dry with paper towels. Brush pork lightly with olive oil and season generously on all sides with pepper. Extra salt isn’t necessary because of the brining process.

Grill pork chops, covered, turning once, until meat is done, but just slightly pink in the middle (145° on an instant read thermometer). Transfer pork to a platter, tent with foil, and let rest 5 to 10 minutes. Serve with marmalade.

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The Ice Cream-Making Monkey on My Back

2009-06-11T20:12:00.000-07:00

I may very well be headed for an intervention. I’m afraid I’ve got a monkey on my back and below is the recipe that started it all. A few days ago I posted a recipe for Cheesecake Ice Cream with Blueberry Sauce and found myself pontificating about the exact moment in time my obsession crystallized. I was given a copy of Padma Lakshmi’s latest cookbook, Tangy Tart Hot & Sweet, a beautiful tome full of exotic recipes made simple for the everyday foodie. I was drawn in by her engaging narrative, innovative twists on cooking and of course, the beautiful food photography. When I stumbled upon her recipe for Rose Petal Pistachio Ice Cream, I read the recipe with great interest and could just imagine a dense custard-based ice cream delicately perfumed with the essence of rose. I knew I was in trouble. Deep trouble. I had always resisted the notion of making my own ice cream with the same vigilance I resist making my own mayonnaise. Not that I have anything against a good homemade mayo, I just don’t have the time for such things. Oh, who am I kidding? It’s the patience that I lack. There, I said it.

Back to ice cream…

From that moment forward I went on a whirlwind ice cream making binge. I dabbled in the standards of course and got those out of the way first. I experimented with cooked custard bases and not, and have come to the solid conclusion that a cooked custard wins every time, because without it you simply cannot get that dense creaminess that is key in great ice cream. When the inevitable next step in my obsession occurred and mere chocolate, vanilla and strawberry were no longer enough, I decided to up the ante and started searching for more daring, edgy flavors. I was like a junkie chasing the proverbial ice cream-making dragon! I was elated when a search on the internet turned up a recipe for David Lebovitz’s Candied Bacon Ice Cream. Yes, you read that correctly! As a kid who was raised with a can of bacon grease in the fridge that my Mom used to fry up everything (and I do mean everything!) this recipe spoke to me. I am a firm believer in the gospel of bacon and all things salty and sweet; this ice cream simply put, is the Alpha and the Omega! However, I’m still deciding if David Lebovitz is the Devil himself for creating it.

With the arrival of the hot summer months comes the beckoning call of my Cuisinart ice cream maker in the form of its comforting, motorized whir that brings with it the promise of meltingly sweet frozen decadence in short order. I’ve tried stashing it away, out of sight, but to no avail. I know it’s there and that knowledge eventually erodes away at my resolve, swimsuit season or not! It seems that I may be saddled with this ice cream-making monkey for a while. Any suggestions as to what I should name him?

Rose Petal & Pistachio Ice Cream

From Tangy Tart Hot & Sweet
by Padma Lakshmi

Makes about 1 quart

2 cups heavy cream
2 cups whole milk
4 large egg yolks
½ cup sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 tablespoons rose water*
5 tablespoons rose petal jam*
¼ cup crushed, raw, unsalted pistachios
2 tablespoons dried rose petals, without stems or leaves, just petals

Heat the cream and milk over medium heat for 5 to 8 minutes, until the mixture is just below the boil. In a small bowl beat together the egg yolks, sugar and vanilla until the mixture is smooth. Add about ¼ cup of the hot cream mixture to the yolks stirring vigorously so the eggs won’t scramble. Add warmed yolk mixture back to the heated cream, whisking constantly over low heat until the mixture thickens slightly, about 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the rose water and rose jam. Cool the mixture completely in ice water bath (my prefered method) or in the refrigerator.

Pour the cooled custard into your ice cream maker and follow the manufacturer’s directions. When finished churning , remove the ice cream and fold in the pistachios and rose petals if using, mixing well to distribute evenly. Freeze ice cream until ready to serve.

*Rose water and Turkish rose jam are available in Middle Eastern markets and online.

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In Search of the Perfect Bite

2009-06-09T18:59:00.000-07:00

Some people live vicariously through others, I eat vicariously through others. Allow me to explain. I am often the very willing recipient of recipe ideas and flavor combinations from just about everywhere, via the traveling adventures of my friends, sometimes even friends of friends when they find out what I do for a living. Everyone, it seems, wants to give me their latest gustatory update, be it from last weekend’s block party, or some far off vacation destination. And I eagerly want to listen and sometimes even take notes. It's not uncommon for people to show me pictures of food, taken on their cell phones with as much pride as if they were showing me their first born. I’ve even gotten calls from friends at parties describing the menu to me as they walk the buffet line. Yes, really.

Through these tidbits I've virtually tasted the food at Hollywood parties, celebrity events, birthdays, weddings, Bar Mitzvahs, family reunions and countries I've never visited by taking what people tell me about their food experiences and using it as a blueprint in the kitchen for inspired creations of my own. Sometimes they actually bring me full-fledged recipes, but more often than not they’re breathless descriptions and flavor ideas that I can begin experimenting and tinkering with in the kitchen.

The following recipe idea came from just such an encounter after a friend returned from a trip to Argentina. He was telling me about the restaurants and the late night dining, and of course the beautiful steaks for which their country is known. But it was the amuse-bouche that was served at one particular restaurant that really piqued my interest. It was, for lack of a better description, a watermelon canapé. Knowing that I’m always in search of what I refer to as “the perfect bite” he described to me the simplest, most brilliant combination of sweet, juicy watermelon, soft, slightly salty mozzarella, and a thin sliver of perfectly ripe tomato stacked architecturally, the whole thing drizzled with just a touch of fresh basil oil and the slightest splash of aged balsamic vinegar. It made perfect culinary sense. All of the freshness of summer in one perfect bite.

I immediately set about experimenting with this idea and I must tell you, it is everything that I’d hoped it would be. Not to mention slightly unexpected, which is always a bonus in my book. I love making this for summertime entertaining because you can easily assemble a whole tray of them as part of a buffet, or serve one per person at the start of an elegant meal. It's pure art on a plate. Every time I serve these there's at least one person who eyes it suspiciously at first, but immediately upon tasting it becomes smitten. And I smile, knowing they’ve just experienced “the perfect bite.”

Watermelon Canapés

Serves 4 as a starter

FOR THE CANAPÉS

¼ of a small seedless watermelon

1 ball of fresh mozzarella (packed in water)

2 Roma tomatoes

Aged balsamic vinegar, for drizzling

FOR THE BASIL OIL

1 bunch fresh basil

3/4 to 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt & freshly cracked pepper, to taste

Bring a large pot of water to the boil and season generously with salt. Blanch the basil for 30 seconds, until bright and vibrant green. Plunge immediately into an ice bath to stop the cooking. Ring the water gently from the basil and place in a blender. With the blender running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil, completely pulverizing the basil to make a thin oil; season with salt and pepper.

To assemble the canapés, slice the watermelon into ¼-inch slices and then into 1-inch squares and place a few on a plate. Slice the mozzarella into ¼-inch slices and cut out with a small round cookie cutter slightly smaller than the watermelon squares. Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise and squeeze gently upside down to release the seeds. Slice lengthwise into thin slivers. Place a round of mozzarella on each piece of watermelon, top with a sliver of tomato and drizzle with basil oil and balsamic vinegar.

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Ice Cream Makes Me Want To Scream!

2009-06-08T19:27:00.000-07:00

I never quite understood the appeal of making homemade ice cream. Why would you when there are so many great varieties available at the market? But my Mom did when she was a young girl and she’d tell fond stories of her and her four sisters lugging out the rock salt, taking turns cranking the ice cream machine until their arms felt like they would fall off and - wait for it - how it was an all day endeavor! Poor things. Can you imagine? I would just sit there staring blankly, feeling sorry for her while I devoured my bowl of Chocolate Malted Crunch from Thrifty’s. The prospect of making ice cream didn’t appeal to me at all and I secretly wondered why she’d never thought of calling the authorities because surely this had been a form of child abuse! I had no idea my Grandma had been such a proponent of childhood slavery. “Oh, It was fun!” my Mom would say, but my eight-year-old self wasn’t buying it, nor did I believe that it tasted “even better” as she claimed because they’d spent the whole day making it together and anticipating it for that night’s dessert. Snide even at age 8, I’d roll my eyes and say something like, “God Mom, the olden days must have been hard. Were you raised on the prairie? Did you have to milk cows too?” Ah yes, the snarkiness of youth, all the while thinking I knew all the things I was still too naïve to know I didn’t know.

As I got older and (I thought) my tastes more discerning, I eventually turned my back on the pedestrian likes of the Thrifty’s brand ice cream of my youth when I discovered Haagen-Daz and Ben & Jerry's. I was now, or so I thought, a bona fide gourmet ice cream snob. Even still, the mere thought of making homemade ice cream with all its work seemed much too involved and absurd to me. What was next? Water from scratch? I mean, you can just buy that in a bottle too!

Fast forward many years later: one day a friend presented me with a cookbook full of esoteric and worldly recipes. As I came upon an entire chapter devoted to ice cream I patronizingly skimmed passed with no intention of stopping until one recipe in particular caught my eye. Rose Petal Pistachio Ice Cream! I was immediately intrigued. I’d never heard of such a thing, but as I read about the dense custard base gently perfumed with rosewater and rose petal jam and studded throughout with emerald-like chunks of green pistachios, I knew I could not rest until I’d tried the glorious ice cream described and photographed so beautifully in this book.

An hour later, sitting in traffic, I had a beautiful stainless steel Cuisinart ice cream maker strapped in the passenger’s seat of my car as I drove to the Middle Eastern market for exotic ingredients. That happened to be a Friday afternoon and by Monday I had made 7 different varieties of ice cream! So much in fact, that I had to call friends over for a tasting party. To say I was hooked would be an understatement. To say I was obsessed would probably lie closer to the truth. I couldn’t believe how easy and fun it was to make your own ice cream, not to mention delicious! Gone, of course, were the needs for rock salt and all that churning by hand of my Mom’s childhood. I still shudder at the thought! All I had to do was whip up a custard base, flavor it with whatever struck my fancy and pour it into the machine. Thirty minutes later I had the richest, dreamiest, densest, most luxurious frozen velvet I had ever had the pleasure of eating. It made me want to scream! (In a really good way!) I devoured it greedily and kicked myself for not jumping on the homemade ice cream train years earlier. I realized in that moment that I’d never really had truly great ice cream. It makes me wonder what other things I don’t know that I’m still too naïve to know I don’t know. Perhaps I’ll look into that water from scratch thing after all.

Cheesecake Ice Cream with Blueberry Syrup

This recipe comes originally from Nigella Lawson. I’ve tinkered with it a bit by adding lemon zest to both the ice cream and the sauce as I think it gives an extra brightness and edge to both.

Makes about 1 quart

FOR THE ICE CREAM
3/4 cup whole milk
3/4 cup sugar
4 ounces cream cheese, room temperature
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 large egg, room temperature
1½ cups heavy cream, lightly whipped
Juice of half a lemon
½ teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest

FOR THE BLUEBERRY SYRUP
2 cups fresh or thawed frozen blueberries
1½ cups sugar
2/3 cup water
½ teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Heat the milk in a pan, and while it’s getting warm, beat together the sugar, cream cheese, vanilla and egg in the bowl of a freestanding mixer with a paddle attachment until smooth. When the milk comes to just below the boil, whisk the cream cheese mixture while slowly drizzling the milk in a thin and continuous stream so the egg is gradually warmed up. Return everything to the saucepan and cook while stirring with a wooden spoon. Make sure that you are constantly scraping the spoon across the bottom of the pan so the custard does not scorch. The custard is done when it has thickened slightly and can evenly coat the back of the spoon and when you run your finger along the back of the spoon and it holds the “line.” Do not let the mixture come to a boil, or it may curdle.

Strain the custard into a metal bowl through a fine sieve to remove any bits of egg. Nestle the bowl of custard into a large bowl of ice water to cool more quickly. I do this because I’m incredibly impatient, but you could just put the whole thing in the fridge to cool. Add the lemon zest and juice and whisk in the slightly beaten cream, stirring occasionally until mixture is cold, about 20 minutes.

Transfer the custard to an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. Put the finished ice cream in a storage container and freeze until firm.

To make the blueberry syrup, combine all the ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until thickened to desired consistency. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature before serving. (If thinner syrup is desired, strain through a fine mesh strainer while still hot.

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The Truth About Risotto

2009-06-05T19:57:00.000-07:00

Maybe it's Gordon Ramsay's fault. All his yelling and screaming on Hell’s Kitchen seems to have scared people off of risotto. It’s no wonder, as week after week we watched whichever bitchling had been dealt the unfortunate assignment of appetizers for that evening’s dinner service get their ass handed to them on a platter, Ramsay-style. It was with great pomp and circumstance that Gordon clutched his chef coat, pacing and agitated before tasting their pathetic attempt at risotto, grimacing dramatically, critiquing the lack of salt, groaning that it was either under cooked, or over cooked (it was hardly ever just right) before finally spitting it in the “bin” and declaring it, “Inedible!” and shouting, "Bollocks!" Meanwhile, the traumatized kitchen bitch dutifully endured the tongue lashing, doing their best to fend off a quivering lip before slinking away in embarrassment, shame and most likely cooking oblivion, all over a plate of rice! I’m not gonna lie, I was a little scared too and I was watching from the safety of my living room couch! Fortunately, I know the truth about risotto.

Bollocks indeed! The jig is up, Gordon! I’m here to “dispense with the rubbish” and let everyone know that risotto is one of the great culinary cons – it is not something to be intimidated by. Its origins are meager at best, yet restaurants have no problem charging $18 or more a plate for what amounts to a few cents worth of ingredients and a dish that essentially began its life as peasant food. And here’s the real rub: many a chef and cooking show have led us to believe that there is a built-in degree of difficulty if we were to actually attempt it in our own kitchens. That notion should be tossed in the “bin.” I’ve often thought that what puts people off about making risotto, Gordon's wrath aside, is the time commitment and the thought of constant stirring. Or perhaps, the fear of not cooking it properly. It is a tad bit laborious I’ll give you that, but it’s by no means difficult, so don’t confuse the two. The truth is, a child could do it given that there’s nothing more to do than sauté a few aromatics, tip the rice into the pan and cook it until it takes on a bit of nuttiness and gets slicked with whatever fat you’re using. If you’ve made a box of Rice-A-Roni (forgive the example), you’ve done this step! You’re well on your way to conquering risotto, so breathe.

To further put you at ease, continue my efforts of persuasion and perhaps attempt to erase the sound of Gordon Ramsay yelling, “Donkey!” in my own head, I’ll remind us all that not only is the time it takes to make risotto time well spent, but that there’s something almost meditative and Zen-like in the simple task and mindless repetition of stirring a pan of ingredients for 25 minutes or so. Proper risotto demands patience and attention. That’s the only way to achieve that melting creaminess and luxurious texture. Interesting advice coming from me, as I am quite possibly the most impatient person on the planet where everything else is concerned. That said, even I become transfixed in an almost Pavlovian fashion at the promise of a bowl full of soft, warm and meltingly creamy, saffron-infused rice as a great reward for such little effort. And perhaps best of all, I (and you) can enjoy that great reward in peace, without the looming threat of having our asses handed to us on a platter, Ramsay-style.

Saffron Risotto with Grilled Shrimp

Serves 4

FOR THE RISOTTO
5 cups good quality chicken stock
2 tablespoons Extra-Virgin olive oil
¼ cup unsalted butter
1 large shallot, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1½ cups Arborio rice
2 pinches saffron threads
2/3 cups dry white wine
½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground white pepper

FOR THE SHRIMP
1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on
2 tablespoons Extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Preheat outdoor grill or indoor grill pan to high.

Toss the shrimp with the oil and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper, set aside. The shrimp only take a couple of minutes per side so I get them ready to go and grill them during the last few minutes of cooking the risotto.

Heat chicken stock over medium-high heat until just simmering. In a large sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and sweat until translucent, stirring constantly, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and saffron, turning to coat in the oil and sauté until the edges of the rice begin to look slightly translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until most of the liquid is absorbed and the pan is almost dry. Add one ladle-full of hot stock, stirring constantly until liquid is almost absorbed. Continue adding stock, one ladle at a time, stirring each addition until the liquid is almost absorbed, about 25 to 30 minutes total. The best test for doneness is to taste it and make sure it’s lost its too chewy center, it should be perfectly al dente.

When the risotto is nearly done, toss the shrimp on the grill and sear until pink, opaque and curled in on themselves, about 2 minutes per side. Spritz the shrimp with more lemon juice when it comes off the grill. When the risotto is done, stir in the remaining butter and the cheese and season with salt and pepper, it should have a nice thick, but not too thick consistency. To serve, ladle risotto into warmed wide bottom bowls and shake slightly from side to side. The risotto should spread evenly on its own. Top with the shrimp, scatter with the parsley and dig in.

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Holy Crab Cakes! Hold the “Krab,” Please!

2009-06-02T19:31:00.000-07:00

Whoever it was who said “there is no bad pizza,” clearly never had a bad crab cake. While I (mostly) agree with the pizza sentiment, crab cakes are a whole other ballgame. When they’re bad, they can be really bad. The truth is, while most everybody loves a good crab cake, fewer people it seems know how to set about making them. And of course, by making them, I mean making them well. Simply put, there are a few things in life that I am a flagrant and unapologetic snob about, and a good crab cake is one of them! I believe it’s all about the freshest, simplest ingredients, not the least of which is beautiful, fresh jumbo lump crab meat, without a bunch of extra stuff to muck it up. And by “stuff” I mean fillers. The whole point of a crab cake is CRAB! Let it shine! It may seem obvious, but you’d be surprised at just how many people overlook that little detail.

Which brings us to the subject of “Krab,” with a K. What is that stuff anyway?! It’s like the Spam of the seafood counter! All the ground up and pressed together “parts” of I’m not sure what, with its sprayed-on psychedelic red color. It scarcely qualifies as an ingredient in cat food, let alone a crab cake! It’s just not right and frankly, I’ve never quite understood the point of substituting the star ingredient of a dish with its sad, inferior imitation. Don’t even get me started on Tofurky! But back to crab cakes. When you’ve had them the way they were meant to be had, prepared the way they’re famous for in Maryland, the taste experience borders on the transcendent!

I had just such a crab cake moment of nirvana the first time I visited my friend Jimmy Yeager’s restaurant in Aspen, CO., the aptly named Jimmy’s. Jimmy definitely understood the art of the crab cake. As it turns out the only things more famous than Jimmy’s legendary tequila selection, which is said to be one of the largest in the country, are his crab cakes. They’ve entered into a sort of local mythology and rightfully so, because let me tell you, they ROCK! They were sweet and succulent with just the right amount of lemoniness, and they were seasoned perfectly with very little filler! I was so taken with them that I was immediately inspired to step up my own crab cake making game. Jimmy kindly shares his recipe with anyone who asks. In fact, it’s posted on his site.

The recipe below is the version I make at home. Perhaps one day Jimmy and I will have a friendly crab cake throw down. Jimmy, if you’re reading this, the gauntlet has been thrown!

Just finished the crab cakes at Jimmy's. I was honored to sign the "Jimmy" wall

Crab cake nirvana!

Real Maryland Crab Cakes with Herb Remoulade

I serve these dressed simply, spritzed with lemon and just a touch of herb remoulade sauce on the side.

Makes 4 cakes

FOR THE SAUCE
½ cup good mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh dill, finely chopped
Juice of ½ lemon
Kosher salt & freshly cracked pepper, to taste

FOR THE CRABCAKES
1 pound fresh lump crabmeat, picked through for shell fragments
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 ½ tablespoons good mayonnaise
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 ½ teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
Several dashes of hot sauce, or to taste
5 Saltine crackers, finely crushed, or a ¼ cup of plain bread crumbs
2 scallions, chopped
1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
Lemon wedges, for garnish

To make the sauce, combine the mayonnaise, sour cream, parsley, dill and lemon juice in a small bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

To make the crab cakes, place the crabmeat in a large bowl and pick through, making sure there are no shells. In another small bowl, whisk together the egg, mayonnaise, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce and hot sauce. Add wet ingredients to the crabmeat, along with the cracker crumbs, scallions, parsley and pepper, to taste. You’ll notice I don’t suggest the addition of salt to the mixture. That’s because the crackers themselves are salted and I find additional salt unnecessary. Gently combine being careful not to overwork. The mixture will be wet. With your hands, form the meat into 4 cakes of equal size.

Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and gently slide the crab cakes into the pan. Pan fry until the cakes are golden brown and cooked through, about 5 minutes per side. Serve warm with herb remoulade sauce and lemon wedges.

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The Ultimate Fried Chicken -- No Kidding!

2009-06-02T07:16:00.000-07:00

Culinarily speaking there are few things in life that can't be improved with the help of a bit of deep-fat frying. Perhaps even shoe leather could be made edible, but I'm quite content leaving that thought in the realm of “theory vs. practice.”

In any case, I digress. I'm here today to talk about fried chicken. It's a dish that is so common, so ubiquitous that it's available on every street corner and at every grocery store deli counter. There are so many bad versions of it that it's easy to forget the sheer genius of a plump piece of chicken rolled in perfectly seasoned flour, dipped in egg wash and deep fried to a glorious, golden brown, all crispy on the outside with a crust that gives way to succulent, juicy meat inside.

Admittedly, even I hadn't given much thought to fried chicken lately, even though it was a staple in my home growing up. That is to say, until I stumbled upon this recipe for Tyler Florence's Ultimate Fried Chicken. It was the picture that first grabbed my attention. I'm a card-carrying sucker for good food porn and was drawn in by the gorgeous pile of freshly-fried chicken with the beautiful bunch of deep fried herbs and garlic cloves perched on top, and scattered about with lemon wedges. Lemon and chicken, absolutely! Lemon and fried chicken? Nice! Intrigued, I dove into the recipe and soon found out that the aromatics were heated slowly, along with the oil, gently perfuming it with their essential oils and removed just before frying the chicken itself. The result: a piece of chicken that is delicately flavored with the herb and garlic essence and the crispiest, most flavorful skin you’ve ever tasted. Made better only by the suggestion of a scattering of sea salt and a spritz of fresh lemon to give it some edge. GENIUS!

Fried herbs. Fried Chicken!

The Ulitmate Fried Chicken

Serves 4

1 (3½ pound) chicken, cut into 10 pieces
Juice of 2 lemons

1 gallon peanut or vegetable oil, for deep-frying
¼ bunch of fresh thyme
3 big sprigs fresh rosemary
¼ bunch of fresh sage
2 fresh bay leaves
½ head of garlic, smashed, husks still attached

2 cups all-purpose flour
Sea salt & freshly cracked black pepper
4 large eggs
Extra-virgin olive oil
Lemon wedges, for serving

Rinse the chicken pieces and pat dry. Put them in a large bowl and squeeze the lemon juice over them, turning the chicken so that the lemon gets all through. Let it marinate while you heat the oil.

Pour the oil into a large pasta pot. Add the herbs and the garlic and heat over medium-high heat until the oil registers 375 degrees on a deep-fry thermometer.

Meanwhile, put the flour in a large, shallow dish and season generously with salt and pepper. Be sure to taste the flour mixture, you should be able to taste the salt and pepper. Crack the eggs into a large, shallow dish; add a drizzle of olive oil and a couple tablespoons of water and whisk together.

When the oil reaches 375 degrees skim off the herbs and garlic and reserve. Dredge the chicken pieces in the seasoned flour and shake off the excess, then dunk them in the egg wash. Carefully drop the chicken into the hot oil and cook for about 20 minutes, turning it with tongs every now and then to keep the color even until it’s cooked through. Keep an eye on the thermometer and adjust the heat to keep the temperature as even as possible.

When the chicken is done, sprinkle it with salt and a dusting of black pepper. Scatter the reserved herbs and garlic over the top. Serve hot, with big lemon wedges spritzed over .

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Neiman Marcus Chocolate Chip Cookies: An Urban Legend Well Worth Repeating

2009-05-30T20:48:00.000-07:00

You’ve probably heard the urban legend about the woman who was so enraptured with the chocolate chip cookies at the Neiman Marcus Cafe that she asked for the recipe. She was told it would cost “two-fifty.” "Done!" went her inner thought bubble, and she eagerly agreed to let them charge "two-fifty" to her account.

To her horror, when the bill arrived it was for “two hundred and fifty dollars!” Outraged, she decided to get even. She quickly dispersed the recipe to every one she knew and asked them to do the same. It turns out that the story isn’t at all true. Not even a little bit. It makes for a great tale though, and it’s still making the rounds in one form or another. Some versions would have you believe it was the Mrs. Field’s cookie recipe and in another, it's a red velvet fudge cake from the Waldorf Astoria.

I love serving miniature versions of this cookie as dessert at dinner parties accompanied by shots of ice cold milk! Urban legend or not, this is truly the best chocolate chip cookie I have ever tasted.

Neiman Marcus Chocolate Chip Cookies

1 pound unsalted butter, room temperature
2 cups sugar
2 cups light brown sugar, packed
4 large eggs
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
5 cups oatmeal, blended*
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons baking soda
24 ounces semi-sweet chocolate chips
1 Hershey bar, grated
3 cups walnuts, chopped

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

In an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream together the butter and both sugars. Add the eggs and the vanilla, mix well to incorporate. Whisk the oatmeal, flour, salt, baking powder and baking soda together in a medium bowl and combine with the wet ingredients. Mix on low speed to form the dough. Fold in the chocolate chips, grated chocolate and walnuts by hand, so as not to break them up or melt the chocolate with the heat of the mixer. It takes a bit of elbow grease, but trust me, it is well worth the effort!

Roll the dough into “golf ball” sized rounds and place 2 inches apart on a parchment lined sheet pan. Bake for 10 to 14 minutes until the top of the cookie cracks and turns golden brown. The key is to slightly “under bake” them so the cookie stays soft and chewy. Cool completely, (if you have that kind of willpower) on a cooling rack and store in an airtight container.

* Measure the oatmeal first, then blend in a blender to a fine powder before adding to the other dry ingredients.

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A Few Good Eggs: Or, My Take on the Classic French Omelette

2009-05-30T13:26:00.000-07:00

I once read that in order to get a job as a chef in some French restaurants you had to prove that you could make a perfect omelette. This seemingly simple task is where the job is won or lost. The French take their omelettes very seriously and apply the same care in making them as they do a fancy beurre blanc sauce. On my personal quest for omelette perfection, I’ve come upon a few simple truths. 1.) The pan matters. A good-quality, ovenproof nonstick skillet, about 9-inches in diameter with curved sides is perfect. 2.) Never use more than 3 eggs in your omelette. If you’re feeding more than one person, make two omelettes! 3.) You need patience to make a good omelette. You can’t rush perfection, so don’t try. 4.) Season the omelette after you’ve cooked it, never before. The idea is that the outside be perfectly and beautifully yellow, unmarred by flecks of pepper and free of any brown spots. 5.) The omelette should be “custard-like” and forgive the expression, “as soft as a baby’s bottom.” 6.) An omelette is a beautiful thing, perfect in its simplicity. It needs little more than a scattering of fresh herbs, none of that cheese and ham nonsense. And finally, Julia Child once said, "Wine is essential with anything! Particularly omelettes for lunch." Far be it for me to argue with a master.

ingredients for the perfect Omelette

The Perfect Omelette

Serves 1

3 large organic eggs
1 tablespoon heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1 tablespoon fresh chives, finely chopped
1 tablespoon tarragon, finely chopped
Kosher salt & freshly cracked pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Whisk eggs and the cream in a small bowl. In a 9-inch ovenproof non-stick saute pan, heat the butter over high heat until bubbling and foamy. You want it hot, but whatever you do, don’t let it brown. Add the eggs all at once to the center of the pan. There should be an audible hiss. Immediately reduce the heat to low and using a heat-resistant rubber spatula stir constantly. The key thing to remember here is, “low and slow.”

When the eggs begin to “just set” on the bottom (the top will still be wet) turn off the heat and toss the pan into the preheated oven. Let it go for about 1½ minutes until the top is still moist- looking and custard-like. Season with salt & pepper and scatter the chives and tarragon over the top of the eggs. Using the rubber spatula, gently loosen the edge of the eggs from the side of the pan and fold one side over toward the center. Use the pan to help you invert the omelette onto a plate folded over itself in thirds. Perfection!

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Scones. Not Stones!

2009-05-29T11:26:00.000-07:00

I feel quite confident proclaiming these to be the best scones I’ve ever tasted. That sentiment has been echoed by everyone who has ever had the pleasure of tasting them still warm from the oven and drizzled with sweet, sticky glaze. They capitalize on the “made for each other” combination of blueberry and lemon and require (in my opinion) no further embellishment of butter, Devonshire cream or jam, but feel free to slather on as you see fit.

I promise you, these are nothing like the heavy, dry and crumbly scones that may have turned you off in the past. I may run the risk of overusing the adjective “light,” in this blog, (light in texture mind you, not in calories!) but that’s exactly what they are. There simply is no other word. The secret to that dreamy lightness lies, of course, in taking extreme care not to overwork or over bake the dough.

Ingredients for blueberry scones

Blueberry Scones with Lemony Glaze

Makes 8 scones

FOR THE SCONES
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting board
5 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Zest of 2 lemons
9 tablespoons unsalted butter, diced and very cold
1½ cups fresh blueberries
2 large eggs
1/3 cup heavy cream, plus more for brushing tops

FOR THE GLAZE
½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 cups confectioners' sugar, sifted
1 lemon, zest finely grated
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Line a sheet pan with parchment paper and set aside. Meanwhile, in a large bowl whisk together the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and lemon zest. Add the butter and work it into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter or by pressing it between your fingers until the mixture resembles coarse meal and the butter is about the size of peas. Using your fingers, gently toss the blueberries with the flour mixture. At this point I usually place bowl back into the refrigerator to keep the butter cold while I whisk together the cream and the eggs.

Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the eggs and cream. Using the tines of the fork and working from the outside of the flour mixture, gently start incorporating the dry ingredients into the wet until just combined being careful not to mash the berries. The key is not to overwork the dough, but to just bring it together. It will be crumbly, but that’s exactly what makes a moist, tender scone in the end.

Lightly dust your work surface with flour and turn the dough out onto it. Gently knead the dough and pat it out into a 6-inch rectangle. Using a knife or a pastry bench scraper, cut the dough into 4 equal squares. Cut each square in half on the diagonal to make eight triangles. Carefully transfer the scones to the prepared sheet pans. Brush tops with remaining cream. Bake until lightly golden brown and firm to the touch, about 15 to 18 minutes.

Meanwhile, to make the glaze, mix the lemon juice and confectioners' sugar together in a microwave-safe bowl (I use a Pyrex glass measuring cup). Stir until the sugar dissolves. Add the lemon zest and butter. Nuke it for 30 seconds on high. Whisk the glaze to smooth out any lumps. Cool the scones slightly on a wire rack then drizzle artfully over the top of the warm scones. Genius!

VARITAION: To make Cinnamon Chocolate Scones, substitute 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon in place of the lemon zest and 1½ cups chopped bittersweet chocolate chunks for the fresh blueberries.

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Crazy for Carbonara: An Italian Classic Gets a Reissue

2009-05-28T19:21:00.000-07:00

I have a fondness for retro kitsch in the kitchen. Spaghetti alla Carbonara was big in the 70’s, but like so many food trends of that decade, it seems to have vanished from the collective consciousness. Fondue, anyone? I think it’s time for a reissue of this simple classic. By simple I mean its preparation, not its flavor.

There are several theories on the origin of Spaghetti alla Carbonara, which loosely translated means, “in the manner of coal miners, ” or "coal miner's spaghetti." It’s rumored that the dish was created during World War II by the Italians when American servicemen were hungry for bacon and eggs. My favorite legend however, claims that it was a staple of the coal miner diet because its few and simple ingredients could easily be carried into the mines and they needed no refrigeration. A roaring campfire was all that was needed for a quick meal. The liberal use of black pepper in the dish is said to represent the flecks of coal that would fall onto the miner’s plates. Isn’t that a romantic notion?

The ingredients for spaghetti alla carbonara.

Spaghetti alla Carbonara

Serves 6

Kosher salt, for pasta water
1¼ pounds spaghetti
4 cloves garlic, smashed
3 tablespoons good olive oil
½ pound of thickly sliced pancetta, cut into ¼-inch cubes
¼ cup good dry white wine
2 large eggs*
1/3 cup Pecorino Romano cheese, grated
¼ cup Parmesan-Reggiano cheese, grated
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Bring a large pot of water to the boil and when it does, generously season the water with salt. Cook the spaghetti according to package directions, to al dente, about 12 minutes. Reserve a ¼ cup of the pasta cooking water.

Meanwhile, with the flat side of a butcher knife, smash the garlic cloves and place them in a medium sauté pan along with the olive oil over medium-high heat. Saute until the garlic turns golden, about 2 minutes. Remove the garlic and discard. Place the pancetta in the pan and cook until it begins to crisp around the edges, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and let the alcohol cook off, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.

Meanwhile, crack the eggs into the bowl in which you’ll be serving the pasta. Beat them lightly with a fork and slowly whisk in the reserved pasta water. Add the cheeses and a generous grinding of black pepper, along with the parsley. Mix well.

Drain the spaghetti and immediately add to the bowl. Tip the pancetta into the bowl and toss well to coat. Serve immediately.

* If you’re concerned about using raw eggs, substitute ½ cup of pasteurized egg product for two large eggs.

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Cream of the Crop: The Blueprint for a Forking Delicious Egg Cream

2009-05-28T09:16:00.000-07:00

As a born and bred Californian, I’m understandably cautious about tackling the subject of the New York Egg Cream. It’s not my drink, geographically speaking, and there are many hotly debated theories on the correct way to go about making one. Do you add the chocolate syrup first, or drizzle it in after the cream? What exactly is the correct ratio of cream to seltzer? I for one will take an egg cream any way I can get it. It’s the perfect concoction for a hot summer day, cool and creamy, bubbly and sweet.

I’m claiming no authenticity here with this recipe and I admit I have only been to New York a large handful of times. Therefore, I am completely reliant on the childhood memories of a friend of mine who grew up on Long Island. He tells me there are three indelible truths when it comes to making the perfect egg cream. 1.) If at all possible, you must use Fox’s U-Bet chocolate syrup. I am told there simply is no substitute. But just between you and me, I’ve used Hershey’s and it’s delicious. 2.) Heavy cream is better than milk. I can’t tell you exactly why, but I suspect it’s because it adds an extra richness to the drink. 3.) You must use ice-cold seltzer water. Apparently, club soda would be blasphemous. I have come to accept these things as the iron-clad rules of egg cream making for two reasons: It tastes great and my friend has a rather intimidating cousin named Vinny, who says that’s just the way it is. I do what I’m told.

Old-Fashioned New York Egg Cream

Serves 1

3 tablespoons good chocolate syrup (New Yorkers swear by Fox’s U-Bet)
3 tablespoons heavy cream
8 ounces ice-cold seltzer water

In a tall glass, layer the chocolate syrup and the heavy cream. Pour the seltzer water over and stir vigorously. Fugedaboutit!!

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Right On ‘Que! Getting The Most Out Of Summer Grilling

2009-05-26T18:40:00.000-07:00

I am evangelical about grilling in the summer! Any time of year for that matter, but there’s just something about cooking dinner outside, over an open flame on those sultry summer nights that speaks to me. That said I'm always interested in recipes and methods that not only make grilling easier, but more delicious.

In the last couple of years I’ve become quite a fan of grilling on natural red cedar planks. The method produces in the salmon an intoxicating aroma, beautiful texture and a smoky flavor from the cedar that subtly perfumes the fish. While I admit I’m not charting any new territory here, it’s a method that’s been around forever and one that most people have heard of, it’s surprising to me just how many people haven’t actually tried grilling on cedar for themselves. I’m on a mission to change that! If you find yourself hesitant or think the technique requires some sort of grilling super powers, let me assure you it’s no more difficult a proposition than getting yourselves some cedar planks, giving them a good soak in water for a few hours before grilling and whipping up a sweet-hot and deliciously sticky glaze that shellacs the outside of the salmon beautifully while maintaining its meltingly coral pinkiness on the inside.

The cedar planks themselves are inexpensive and easily found at any well-stocked grocery store, hardware stores and of course online. Amazon has several options available that can be delivered right to your door.

A few easy tips for successful plank grilling:

▪ Weigh the planks down while they’re soaking using something like a can or two from the pantry. The planks are buoyant and you want to ensure they’re good and water logged.

▪ Keep a spray bottle of water near the grill to extinguish any flare ups.

▪ What ever you do, don’t overcook the fish! Perfectly cooked salmon should still have a bit of a pink trail running through the middle of it. Cook until the internal temperature reaches 135 degrees F. on an instant read thermometer.

▪ Let the salmon rest for 5 minutes or so loosely tented under some aluminum foil before digging in.

▪ Don’t even bother with a serving platter. The cedar plank makes a rustic and easy presentation without any extra clean up.

Cedar Plank Grilled Salmon with Sweet-Hot & Sticky Glaze

Serves 4

FOR THE GLAZE
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 teaspoons garlic, minced
1 teaspoon fresh ginger, minced
¼ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
½ cup honey
1 teaspoon tobasco sauce, or to taste
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
½ teaspoon orange zest
½ teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
½ cup fresh cilantro, chopped

FOR THE SALMON
2 pound side of boneless, skin-on salmon filet (Wild if possible)
1 cedar plank, about 10 x 16 x ½-inch thick, soaked in water for 3 hours.
2 tablespoons olive oil

To make the glaze, sauté the ginger in the oil for about 30 seconds in a medium saucepan set over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté for 30 seconds more. Add the orange juice, honey, tobacco, brown sugar, orange and lemon zests and pepper. Let the glaze simmer and reduce over low heat until it 2/3 evaporated and takes on thick, syrupy consistency. Remove from the heat and let cool to room temperature. Stir in the cilantro.

Preheat the grill to high.

Oil the skin side of the salmon and generously season with salt and pepper on both sides. Lay the salmon skin side down on the cedar plank. Place the plank with the salmon onto the grill and close the lid. Let cook for about 5 minutes before painting the salmon with the glaze. Continue to baste every 5 minutes or so until the salmon is done, about 18 to 24 minutes total, depending on the thickness of the filet. The internal temperature should read 135 degrees F. Transfer the salmon and plank to a platter and serve right off the plank.

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Beyond BBQ: Pairing Grilled Favorites With Australia’s Fantastic And Little Known Wine Export: Sparkling Shiraz

2009-05-21T21:15:00.000-07:00

I have a secret I’m dying to let you in on just in time for Memorial Day weekend. Like any juicy tidbit, it won’t be a secret for long. As a cultural explorer and culinary sleuth, I am always on the lookout for exciting developments and the “next big thing” on the food and wine horizon. I believe I’ve found it. Are you ready? Lean closer … it’s sparkling Shiraz, or “spurgles,” as the Aussies fondly refer to it.

Many of you are probably no stranger to Shiraz, the spirited, fruity red that has become synonymous with Australian wine and a favorite among wine aficionados. But the sparklers stand on their own. Think bold and inky, a spicy, fruity depth with bubbles! Lots of bubbles. The color is glorious, too! The wine is best served chilled, in champagne flutes, and pairs beautifully with spicy and grilled foods. It’s perfect for summer barbecues or with your favorite spicy Thai food. But unlike champagne, which is often made with Pinot Noir grapes but remains pale because of its minimal contact with the red skins, sparkling Shiraz is vinified with the skins, resulting in a deep, crimson color and alluring aroma.

I must tell you this is not—I repeat, not—Cold Duck! Cold Duck is a carbonated sweet wine `from the ’70’s that bears more of a resemblance to grape soda pop than to fine wine. While I’m always up for a bit of retro chic, some things are best left in the past. Polyester leisure suits, anyone?

The Australians have been enjoying sparkling reds for years. Only now is their best-kept secret gaining popularity in the United States. Vintage sparklers are typically aged for five to 10 years, and are done in small quantities. For those reasons, they can be a bit of a challenge to find. My first excursion turned into an all-day outing that finally produced a bottle of Majella 2002 sparkling Shiraz from a local wine shop. Many shopkeepers along the way cocked their heads in an RCA Victor–dog sort of way and looked at me curiously when I inquired about the bubbly red. I nearly wept with joy when I finally found it, and carried it home like the Holy Grail and placed it in my refrigerator with eager anticipation to chill for that night’s dinner.

As I sat down to grilled steak and spicy roasted vegetables and popped the cork, I must admit, I was skeptical at first. I poured the wine into a tall champagne flute. The color was deep, dark purple and the bubbles a beautiful, rich shade of pink. I sniffed. It had a warm, fruity aroma. Not knowing quite what to expect, I took a sip. I was hooked! It was drier than I had expected. I took another sip. I was in love! The lush fruitiness and unobtrusive tannins were in perfect harmony. And those bubbles! Dancing in my mouth, they were perfect with the grilled steak and peppery vegetables. It all came together in that moment. I went out the next day and bought two more bottles. A week later I ordered a case and invited 10 friends to dinner to share my new discovery.

In my search for the perfect sparkling Shiraz, I found many that I liked (some better than others, but they all had something distinct to offer). As I mentioned, they’re not always easy to find, being that we’re just starting to catch on stateside. But I did find one amazing resource called the Jug Shop in San Francisco with several varieties in stock. In fact, they boast the largest selection of Australian wine on the West Coast, and were voted one of the top 10 specialty wine stores in the U.S. by GQ. They are friendly and knowledgeable, and their motto is: “We taste bad wines so you don’t have to.” The good news is, even if you don’t live in San Francisco, they have an easy-to-navigate Web site, http://www.jugshop.com/, and they ship anywhere in the U.S. Now that my fizzy little secret is out, you’ll know what to look for when searching for the perfect wine to serve at your next barbecue. Just what you grill may be up for debate, but the wine selection is clear. Fire up the grill!

THE GRILL OF IT ALL!

The following recipes pair perfectly with your favorite spurgles...

Kick Ass Burgers with Roasted Tomatoes,

Caramelized Balsamic Onions

& Smoky Chipotle Ketchup

The all-American Hamburger gets a gourmet makeover with the addition of ground brisket and a few other ingredients that really take this cookout classic to the next level. Perfect for Memorial Day! Admittedly there's a bit of preparation involved, but don't confuse time consuming with difficult. There's nothing difficult about these burgers and most of the prep work can be done days in advance. Believe me, the flavor pay off is well worth it! Ask your friendly butcher to grind the brisket twice for the juiciest, most delicious burger you've ever tasted.

Serves 6

FOR THE BURGERS

2 1/4 pounds ground brisket
2 egg yolks
2 tablespoons steak sauce (recommended: A1 Brand)
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons freshly cracked black pepper
3 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter

FOR THE ONIONS
1 pound red onions, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch rings
2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste
Kosher salt, to taste
2 tablespoons aged balsamic vinegar

FOR THE KETCHUP
1 cup ketchup
1 to 2 teaspoons canned chipotle peppers*, seeded and diced, or to taste
1 to 2 tablespoons adobo sauce from can, or to taste
2 teaspoons aged balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

FOR THE TOMATOES
6 Roma tomatoes
Olive oil for drizzling
Kosher salt & freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

FIXIN’S

6 Brioche Rolls or good hamburger buns, split, cut side toasted or grilled

6 thick slices sharp cheddar cheese

2 cups baby arugula leaves

1 ripe avocado, peeled and sliced

To caramelize the onions, heat oil over low heat in a large skillet. Add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, for 20 minutes or until soft and deep golden brown. Don’t rush this part. It really does take about 20 minutes to develop the sugars and caramelize the onions. Trust me, your patience will be rewarded. They key to success is low and slow. Season with salt and pepper and add the balsamic vinegar during the last couple of minutes to deglaze the pan. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise and remove the seeds. Spread tomato halves on a sheet pan and drizzle with olive oil. Season generously with salt and pepper and toss together to ensure everything is coated evenly. Roast for 45 minutes, cut side up, without turning, until the tomatoes are concentrated and caramelized. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.

To make the ketchup, Stir together the ketchup, chipotle peppers and adobo sauce in a small bowl. Whisk in the vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Can be made 3 days ahead. Cover; chill.

To make the burgers, whisk together the egg yolks, steak sauce and salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add the ground brisket and put a touch of olive oil on clean hands to keep meat from sticking and to prevent over mixing. Carefully work the meat with your fingertips until just combined. It’s important not to overwork the meat, doing so results in a tough burger. To form patties, shape a loose ball in your hand and press half a tablespoon of the cold butter into the center of the meat. Lightly form each hamburger with the balls of your hands making sure the butter is entirely encased, but don’t pack the meat. The more you pack, the denser the burger will be and it will leave more potential for shrinkage. The burgers should be half an inch thick. Season both sides of the burgers with salt and pepper.

Heat an outdoor grill or indoor grill pan to medium-high.

Grill the burgers for 5 to 7 minutes on each side to desired doneness. Remove to a plate, add cheese and cover with aluminum foil. Allow the burgers to rest for 5 minutes and serve immediately on buns with desired fixin’s.

*Dried, smoked jalapenos in a spicy tomato sauce called adobo; available on the International aisle of most supermarkets and in Latin markets.

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Coca~Cola Barbecue Ribs

This is the ONLY rib recipe you will ever need. Sticky and sweet. Absolute perfection!

Serves 6

FOR THE RIBS

1 (1.5 liter) bottle of Coca-Cola (not diet!)
1 large onion, quartered
6 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
2 racks baby back ribs (about 4 pounds)

FOR THE SAUCE
2/3 stick unsalted butter
1 small white onion, diced
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 cup ketchup
1½ tablespoons yellow mustard
¼ cup dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 (12 ounce) can Coca-Cola (not diet!)
Kosher salt & freshly ground black pepper, to taste

In a large pot, add the (1.5 liter) bottle of Coca-Cola, onion, garlic, bay leaves and peppercorns. Add the ribs and, if necessary a bit of water just to ensure the ribs are submerged completely. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to a simmer, turning the ribs occasionally, until the meat pulls away from the bone, about 1 hour.

Meanwhile, to make the sauce combine the butter, onion, garlic, ketchup, mustard, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce, and (12 ounces) Coca-Cola in large heavy sauce pan. Bring to a boil and reduce heat. Simmer for about 25 minutes stirring often until sauce is thickened and reduced. Season to taste with salt and pepper and let cool slightly. Using a blender, puree the sauce.

Note: Sauce can be made up to 5 days ahead and stored in the refrigerator in an air-tight container.

Preheat the grill to high.

Remove the ribs from the pot, pat dry, season with salt and pepper and brush liberally with the sauce. Grill, turning often, until charred on the outside, about 8 minutes. Loosely tent the ribs with foil and let rest for 5 minutes before cutting into individual ribs. Serve extra sauce on the side for dipping.

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Grilled Zucchini & Tomatoes

with Feta Sauce

In the summer when tomatoes are at their peak, they’re made even better when introduced to the blistering heat of the grill and paired with the pungent sharpness of feta cheese. This dish is great at room temperature.

3 ounces (½ cup) good-quality mild feta chees
¼ cup sour cream
2 tablespoons water
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ teaspoons minced garlic
2 ½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil
2 medium zucchini (about a pound)
3/4 pound cherry tomatoes on the vine
Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Preheat an outdoor grill or indoor grill pan over high heat.

In a food processor, puree the feta, sour cream, water, lemon juice, and garlic until smooth. With the motor running, add 1½ tablespoons oil in a slow stream. Add basil and salt and pepper; pulse briefly to combine. Thinly slice the zucchini lengthwise (a little over 1/8-inch thick) using a vegetable peeler. Toss the zucchini with the tomatoes in a large bowl with the remaining oil and season with salt and pepper. If using loose tomatoes, thread onto skewers.

Grill, turning once with tongs, until vegetables are just tender (about 3 to 5 minutes) and have those beautiful grill marks. Serve with feta sauce on the side.

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2009-05-21T11:31:00.000-07:00

The Reasons Why I'm Finally Blogging...

2009-05-19T16:54:00.000-07:00

Okay... here it is! My very own food blog in my very own corner of the blogosphere!

People have been asking me to do one. My manager (or MOMager, as she's affectionately known) has insisted that I do one. Even my neighbor looked at me as if I had two heads when I fessed up to my all too obvious blogging deficiency. Quite frankly I was beginning to feel like a bit of a social loser for not having one! Then came my undoing: "Blogs Are The New Black!" screamed the headline of one recent magazine article. How could I ignore such a powerful sentiment? I defiantly stared at that article every day for a week, refusing to throw it out as if my standoff with a magazine would somehow teach it a lesson, or change its content or diminish the undeniable truth of its message. Finally, after much resistance, I took it as a sign and made peace with the fact that I was going to write a blog. Namaste. But seriously, more than that, I just couldn’t take the pressure!

But the more I thought about this whole thing and the more I started checking out other people's blogs, the more it was beginning to make sense. A light bulb went on, albeit a dim one at first, but it got me thinking about all the reasons that I should blog, or rather, why I’d LIKE to blog and while I won’t bore you with that entire list, I will tell you that reason #3: Write what you know, #10: A great way to connect with other "foodies" all over the world and exchange recipes and ideas, and #22: Maybe even road test and get feedback on a few things for my next cookbook, were reason enough for me to start my own blog.

So with much prodding (i.e., nagging) and encouragement, I've finally succumbed to the pressure and created Forking Delicious! Welcome!

As I continue to explore this new found world of blogging, I'm looking forward to sharing some of my favorite recipes, inspiration, food photos (LOVE the food porn!) as well as kitchen disasters with all of you. And yes, I've had a disaster or two along the way! Since I'm new to this whole blogging thing, go easy on me. I'm completely open to ideas, suggestions, even recipe requests! And by the way, I'm really excited to be here...

For what it's worth, that was reason #1!

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